Slow to learn servicing

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charlese
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Slow to learn servicing

Post by charlese »

Holy Cow!!!! After using the Mark V for over a decade, and now waiting for a Power Pro, I finally discovered a better way to lube the Mark V.

Am now making toy cars and have done over 100 of them. As a result my machine has been running about 3 or 4 hours per day. Mostly drilling, running the band saw and strip sander. That's a lot more headstock use than normal. In previous times I figured about 10 hours of running time per month. Now it's 10 hours every 3 days or so. 10 hours is the oiling time.

Today I decided to oil the thing while it was in the drill press position. Now it dawned on me - in that position, the oil runs down the inside of the control sheave tube to the bearing holding the clip for the pork chop. Also, since it's a good idea to put some oil on end of the motor shaft in addition to that little hole, the oil will run down the motor shaft to more fully cover the shaft, instead of throwing it out when started at full speed.

Also noticed when the belt cover is held up to the end of the way tubes with a hand clamp, the view inside the headstock is a lot better. Also of benefit - the hatch will always stay open and not fall back when touched.:)

Why didn't I think of this before?
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Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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fjimp
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Post by fjimp »

Chuck,

Thanks for a great idea.

I do believe you just may have discovered an improved method of lubrication. Shopsmith may need to publish an addendum to sheir servicing instructions. The only possible negative here could be fewer replacements parts being sold:rolleyes: fjimp
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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

Hi Chuck,

I think that is what they mean when they say "thinking outside the box". Good job!:)
Tim

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Bill Mayo has recommended leaving vertical after control sheave lubrication to allow bearing get its share on multiple posts. Not sure the motor sheave is better off since the oil hole is at the 'lower' end.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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MikeG
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Post by MikeG »

Another benefit of service in the drill press position is if you reverse the table to the other side of the tubes you have a nice shelf to support the motor. I was able to get the idler shaft assembly out for a complete cleanup and lube job without removing the motor wires from the switch. Reinstalling the motor screws was also very easy in this position.
charlese
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Post by charlese »

JPG40504 wrote:... Not sure the motor sheave is better off since the oil hole is at the 'lower' end.

Don't just oil the hole! Put a few drops on the shaft they will run down into the sleeve. Seems better lube than just the hole from any position.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
charlese
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Post by charlese »

MikeG wrote:Another benefit of service in the drill press position is if you reverse the table to the other side of the tubes you have a nice shelf to support the motor. I was able to get the idler shaft assembly out for a complete cleanup and lube job without removing the motor wires from the switch. Reinstalling the motor screws was also very easy in this position.

Nifty idea!!! Thanks, Mike!:)
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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shipwright
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Post by shipwright »

MikeG wrote:Another benefit of service in the drill press position is if you reverse the table to the other side of the tubes you have a nice shelf to support the motor. I was able to get the idler shaft assembly out for a complete cleanup and lube job without removing the motor wires from the switch. Reinstalling the motor screws was also very easy in this position.
Thanks for the tip. As luck would have it I needed to remove my 10ER motor today to fix a small wiring issue. I remembered your post and it made the job much easier.


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PS: Thanks JPG

Paul M
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MikeG
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Post by MikeG »

I'm glad it helped you. I know it worked for me. I like to think that sharing ideas and information of this type is what makes forums great. I know I have picked up a lot of great ideas and shortcuts reading the posts of others, so I'm glad to have been able to give something back.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

MikeG wrote:I'm glad it helped you. I know it worked for me. I like to think that sharing ideas and information of this type is what makes forums great. I know I have picked up a lot of great ideas and shortcuts reading the posts of others, so I'm glad to have been able to give something back.
This be a goodun!:)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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