The season is upon us northern folks with unheaded shops... the fall clean-up and machine waxing.... and some long days without any shop time.
I have been waxing my machine since I got it and have been happy with the results. BUT, I know a guy who raves about the top-cote. I've never tried it and was wondering what other thought about it... especially any one that has used BOTH.
I'm guessing that if you use the top-cote and don't like it there is no problem going back to wax... is that right?
How about doing the way tubes with it? It seems to mention table tops but nothing much more in the description.
Ed
top-cote vs wax
Moderator: admin
top-cote vs wax
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Wax vs TopCote
I use both, often on top of each other. No harmful effects that I have seen. I try to keep a good coat of wax on the table tops and way tubes. If I'm in the middle of something and things don't slide well, a shot of TopCote and wipe down is faster that the mineral spirits plus 3 coats of wax. On way tubes I only use wax. Tried TopCote there but didn't like it. Mainly because of trying to get an even coat on the underside. Wax is easier to put on and buff off.
reible wrote:The season is upon us northern folks with unheaded shops... the fall clean-up and machine waxing.... and some long days without any shop time.
I have been waxing my machine since I got it and have been happy with the results. BUT, I know a guy who raves about the top-cote. I've never tried it and was wondering what other thought about it... especially any one that has used BOTH.
I'm guessing that if you use the top-cote and don't like it there is no problem going back to wax... is that right?
How about doing the way tubes with it? It seems to mention table tops but nothing much more in the description.
Ed
Jim in Bakersfield:D
Living here in the Pacific Northwest with an unheated garage also I use wax for rust prevention purposes. However, I also use Top Coat on top of the wax for a very smooth surface. Anything made of iron gets a coat of wax at the end of the day after being used and some times just to make sure.
Enjoy a little sawdust therapy
Walt
520, Joiner, band saw, Planer, Dust Collector, 6: Belt Sander, OPR, Scroll Saw
Walt
520, Joiner, band saw, Planer, Dust Collector, 6: Belt Sander, OPR, Scroll Saw
reible:
Some attention to the climate in the shop will go a long ways in protecting our tools from rust, as well as providing comfort.
My "workshop in the woods" is at 46 degrees North in the U.P. When building it this summer I had it well insulated to code, and I will have a 35,000 BTU heater installed next month. Even though I won't be up there from mid-December thru March the heater will be used a great deal in the spring and fall.
Here in Gainesville Florida we do get some chilly mornings in the winter, sometimes in the high 30's and infrequently a couple of nights below freezing. This year I completed the conversion of the carport into a garage. I put insulation in the new framed walls and insulated the garage door by cutting 1" thick foam insulation panels and gluing them to the sections in the door - this has made a big difference. If I need heat early in the morning I fire up a Sears 20,000 BTU kerosene heater for a half hour or so. I know that this is not a recommended heating source for woodworking shops but I keep a clean shop without much loose dust. To keep the summer humidity under control I installed a 12,000 BTU A/C unit thru the wall. Without this I could literally watch my tools rust. In the Upper Peninsula there are few hot humid days, so A/C is not necessary.
I've always used a lot of Johnson paste wax on my machines and this really helps to avoid rust. I also use liquid wax on concrete floors. this is a great sealer that drips of paint or varnish won't stick to. It also improves the "sweepability" of the floor.
Some attention to the climate in the shop will go a long ways in protecting our tools from rust, as well as providing comfort.
My "workshop in the woods" is at 46 degrees North in the U.P. When building it this summer I had it well insulated to code, and I will have a 35,000 BTU heater installed next month. Even though I won't be up there from mid-December thru March the heater will be used a great deal in the spring and fall.
Here in Gainesville Florida we do get some chilly mornings in the winter, sometimes in the high 30's and infrequently a couple of nights below freezing. This year I completed the conversion of the carport into a garage. I put insulation in the new framed walls and insulated the garage door by cutting 1" thick foam insulation panels and gluing them to the sections in the door - this has made a big difference. If I need heat early in the morning I fire up a Sears 20,000 BTU kerosene heater for a half hour or so. I know that this is not a recommended heating source for woodworking shops but I keep a clean shop without much loose dust. To keep the summer humidity under control I installed a 12,000 BTU A/C unit thru the wall. Without this I could literally watch my tools rust. In the Upper Peninsula there are few hot humid days, so A/C is not necessary.
I've always used a lot of Johnson paste wax on my machines and this really helps to avoid rust. I also use liquid wax on concrete floors. this is a great sealer that drips of paint or varnish won't stick to. It also improves the "sweepability" of the floor.
8iowa = As I wanted to mention before - as soon as I noticed your Avatar- It is a real nice looking shop!! It IS true - Your Heaven IS North of the bridge/
I never thought of waxing my concrete floors - Thanks - good idea!
I never thought of waxing my concrete floors - Thanks - good idea!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 5834
- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
I think I have tried them all and I keep coming back to the Johnson Paste wax.
As for conditions let me tell you. I live here in Florida which is known to have some humidity
and about 10-20 miles inland so we still get some sea air ladened with salt. My garage is my work shop and I park two cars in it every night. I also vent my dryer directly into the garage.
I have installed an air conditioner that I turn on early on the days I'm working and off when I quit. So my tools live in a climate that goes from hot damp night air to cool air conditioned to hot humid and even worst when the dryer is on or the cars come in hot and drain air conditioning water unto the floor. In the winter my source for heat is the opening the garage door and entertaining the neighbors with my wood working prowness
That usually keeps them in stitches.
On things that don't have a wear factor and I don't want to rust I usually coat them in Penetrol by Flood products. It is a paint additive that is fantastic just painted on bare metal. I is almost plastic like and nothing I have painted with the product has rusted. I know many old timers used the product to coat their cast iron table saw tables with it. My neighbor uses it on his raw steel lathe way tubes.
On wear surfaces things that slide or have other pieces slidding against them I coat with Johnson Paste Wax. My SS was bought in the mid 80's and there is no rust on it today. My jointer bed and cast iron band saw bed look like they did when I received them from Shopsmith.
Johnson paste wax and penetrol are far less expensive than all the other products that hit us with their ad hype but I think they work far better.
Ed
As for conditions let me tell you. I live here in Florida which is known to have some humidity
and about 10-20 miles inland so we still get some sea air ladened with salt. My garage is my work shop and I park two cars in it every night. I also vent my dryer directly into the garage. I have installed an air conditioner that I turn on early on the days I'm working and off when I quit. So my tools live in a climate that goes from hot damp night air to cool air conditioned to hot humid and even worst when the dryer is on or the cars come in hot and drain air conditioning water unto the floor. In the winter my source for heat is the opening the garage door and entertaining the neighbors with my wood working prowness
That usually keeps them in stitches. On things that don't have a wear factor and I don't want to rust I usually coat them in Penetrol by Flood products. It is a paint additive that is fantastic just painted on bare metal. I is almost plastic like and nothing I have painted with the product has rusted. I know many old timers used the product to coat their cast iron table saw tables with it. My neighbor uses it on his raw steel lathe way tubes.
On wear surfaces things that slide or have other pieces slidding against them I coat with Johnson Paste Wax. My SS was bought in the mid 80's and there is no rust on it today. My jointer bed and cast iron band saw bed look like they did when I received them from Shopsmith.
Johnson paste wax and penetrol are far less expensive than all the other products that hit us with their ad hype but I think they work far better.
Ed
...faster that the mineral spirits plus 3 coats of wax.
Folks, while we're on the subject of wax, let me address an old myth-conception. That is, your tools will profit by applying several "coats" of wax.
Wax is an amazing and unique material that sticks tenaciously to everthing but itself. When wax is applied to wax, it acts as its own solvent. When you apply a coat of wax over a coat of wax, the new coat dissolves the first and you're left with a single coat -- NOT two coats -- of wax. If you apply a third, fourth, and fifth coat, each application dissolves the preceeding coat and you are left with just one coat of wax. Period.
What about old, cruddy built-up wax, you say? This is an invention of advertisers. It's caused by improperly rubbing out (or not rubbing out) the wax after it's applied. If you don't properly buff the wax and allow excess wax to adhere in corners and crevices, it will mix with dirt and sawdust. Women will swoon, children cry, and grown men quake as this dirty, dusty wax transforms itself into the horrific "waxy build-up." What every superhero knows is that the easiest and most effective way to vanquish this monster is with another coat of wax, properly buffed. Mineral spirits, xylol, and turpentine are all effective, but not necessary unless the build-up has grown to truly monsterous proportions.
The one exception to this rule is cast iron. Because cast iron is porous, this material will absorb two or three applications of wax when it's first applied. Afterwards, multiple coats are unnecessary.
With all good wishes,
Folks, while we're on the subject of wax, let me address an old myth-conception. That is, your tools will profit by applying several "coats" of wax.
Wax is an amazing and unique material that sticks tenaciously to everthing but itself. When wax is applied to wax, it acts as its own solvent. When you apply a coat of wax over a coat of wax, the new coat dissolves the first and you're left with a single coat -- NOT two coats -- of wax. If you apply a third, fourth, and fifth coat, each application dissolves the preceeding coat and you are left with just one coat of wax. Period.
What about old, cruddy built-up wax, you say? This is an invention of advertisers. It's caused by improperly rubbing out (or not rubbing out) the wax after it's applied. If you don't properly buff the wax and allow excess wax to adhere in corners and crevices, it will mix with dirt and sawdust. Women will swoon, children cry, and grown men quake as this dirty, dusty wax transforms itself into the horrific "waxy build-up." What every superhero knows is that the easiest and most effective way to vanquish this monster is with another coat of wax, properly buffed. Mineral spirits, xylol, and turpentine are all effective, but not necessary unless the build-up has grown to truly monsterous proportions.
The one exception to this rule is cast iron. Because cast iron is porous, this material will absorb two or three applications of wax when it's first applied. Afterwards, multiple coats are unnecessary.
With all good wishes,
Nick Engler
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
I got the Topcote as the suggestion by Shopsmith at one of the classes for the top of the table. Spray it on and let it sit a bit and then polish it off. The wood slides across it like it was on an oil slick.
It may be expensive but the can last a long time and I don't need to apply it that often. I have had the same can for two years plus and it still has more than half. And that is used on two Marv Vs.
Johnson wax I use for the waytubes and other metal post.
It may be expensive but the can last a long time and I don't need to apply it that often. I have had the same can for two years plus and it still has more than half. And that is used on two Marv Vs.
Johnson wax I use for the waytubes and other metal post.