Beginner Lathe Questions
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I hope ya used plenty of machine screws, of at least a number 10 to hold it to the face plate.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Crush
You said that the log was in your back yard before you put it on the lathe,if it ws laying on the ground water may have entered on one side (the side against the ground).You may have to turn it down to 2" to get past the water!!!! In this case the low speed of 700 RPM is still too high for an unbalanced workpiece.
Bill V
You said that the log was in your back yard before you put it on the lathe,if it ws laying on the ground water may have entered on one side (the side against the ground).You may have to turn it down to 2" to get past the water!!!! In this case the low speed of 700 RPM is still too high for an unbalanced workpiece.
Bill V
Chris -
I can't echo enough what other people said - this is dangerous! This is not a flame, but consider how much your Shopsmith weighs, and then consider how much force it takes to walk it across the floor, then think about how that force could have been transferred to your head if that piece came loose from the faceplate at the wrong time. With what I woudl assume was the mass of the log you described, a shattered skull and accompanying death is not an unlikely outcome.
Power tools need to be treated with respect. If it comes to a contest between you and the tool, your body is going to lose every time.
I would strongly suggest you watch someone else work and have them supervise you the first few times you use an unfamiliar tool. When I got my Shopsmith, the first thing I did was got to Woodcraft and take their fundamentals course and a basic lathe course. They showed me the right way to use the lathe, bandsaw, belt sander, spindle sander, drill press, table saw, planer, and jointer.
Other thoughts -
1 - Use a tailstock center (ANY center) unless there is a good reason not to (like "I'm turning a bowl" or "I'm shaping the end and the piece is already turned round and balanced")
2 - Start with something smaller - like a 2X2 piece, as someone else suggested.
3 - If you are not wearing a face shield and saety goggles, do so.
4 - Seriously, take a class at Woodcraft or something. Using a chisel on a rotating piece of wood can be a smooth as silk, or as rough as an upaved road. If you don't have your technique down, you may run into some very un-nerving experiences (not the least of which is checking the wood and having your chisel ripped out of your hand and thrown into the wall).
I can't echo enough what other people said - this is dangerous! This is not a flame, but consider how much your Shopsmith weighs, and then consider how much force it takes to walk it across the floor, then think about how that force could have been transferred to your head if that piece came loose from the faceplate at the wrong time. With what I woudl assume was the mass of the log you described, a shattered skull and accompanying death is not an unlikely outcome.
Power tools need to be treated with respect. If it comes to a contest between you and the tool, your body is going to lose every time.
I would strongly suggest you watch someone else work and have them supervise you the first few times you use an unfamiliar tool. When I got my Shopsmith, the first thing I did was got to Woodcraft and take their fundamentals course and a basic lathe course. They showed me the right way to use the lathe, bandsaw, belt sander, spindle sander, drill press, table saw, planer, and jointer.
Other thoughts -
1 - Use a tailstock center (ANY center) unless there is a good reason not to (like "I'm turning a bowl" or "I'm shaping the end and the piece is already turned round and balanced")
2 - Start with something smaller - like a 2X2 piece, as someone else suggested.
3 - If you are not wearing a face shield and saety goggles, do so.
4 - Seriously, take a class at Woodcraft or something. Using a chisel on a rotating piece of wood can be a smooth as silk, or as rough as an upaved road. If you don't have your technique down, you may run into some very un-nerving experiences (not the least of which is checking the wood and having your chisel ripped out of your hand and thrown into the wall).
RiotNrrd
Shopsmith 510 with PowerPro upgrade, Bandsaw, Jointer, Planer, Belt Sander
Incra 1000 HD, Miter Express, TS-III, Wonderfence Other miscellaneous Dewalt, Ryobi, and Craftsman
Shopsmith 510 with PowerPro upgrade, Bandsaw, Jointer, Planer, Belt Sander
Incra 1000 HD, Miter Express, TS-III, Wonderfence Other miscellaneous Dewalt, Ryobi, and Craftsman
Consider the following:
Stand your log onto one end. Does it fall? If the ends are cut flat and it falls, that unbalanced log will cause chatter on your lathe.
Perhaps taking a board that is almost as long as your log, and then take another the same length, and create an 'L' that is as long as your log.
Set this 'L' against your table saw fence, and move the fence so the blade does not come into contact with your 'L'. Now move the blade all the way up and then set your log into the 'L'. Find a way to fasten your log SECURELY into your 'L'. turn saw on, and push log into the blade. With this elementary crude device you will be able to see what needs to be trimmed from the log to put it into straight form that will have minimal mis-balance issues.
My 'L' is a point of basis for finding a better way to skin a pole-cat. I'm sure it can be imporved upon, but it's effectiveness has worked well for me.
Sharp tools.
Also, after mounting a rough piece, turn the piece 180-degrees and then let it go. Does it drop sharply? Then remove the piece and reform it, try to balance it more. Do not try and turn off and then quickly turn on your lathe in an attempt to run it for a few seconds to balance your piece. Even working with a partner one of you could die. I've seen people do it, thinking they are pioneers in the realm of teamwork.
And your comment for being flamed?
Grow thicker skin.
-Cheers.
Stand your log onto one end. Does it fall? If the ends are cut flat and it falls, that unbalanced log will cause chatter on your lathe.
Perhaps taking a board that is almost as long as your log, and then take another the same length, and create an 'L' that is as long as your log.
Set this 'L' against your table saw fence, and move the fence so the blade does not come into contact with your 'L'. Now move the blade all the way up and then set your log into the 'L'. Find a way to fasten your log SECURELY into your 'L'. turn saw on, and push log into the blade. With this elementary crude device you will be able to see what needs to be trimmed from the log to put it into straight form that will have minimal mis-balance issues.
My 'L' is a point of basis for finding a better way to skin a pole-cat. I'm sure it can be imporved upon, but it's effectiveness has worked well for me.
Sharp tools.
Also, after mounting a rough piece, turn the piece 180-degrees and then let it go. Does it drop sharply? Then remove the piece and reform it, try to balance it more. Do not try and turn off and then quickly turn on your lathe in an attempt to run it for a few seconds to balance your piece. Even working with a partner one of you could die. I've seen people do it, thinking they are pioneers in the realm of teamwork.
And your comment for being flamed?
Grow thicker skin.
-Cheers.
I have no experience with the lathe, so can't really comment there. But I do have a good bit of experience with internet based communication. So that I will comment on.
I've never seen JPG's posts as inflammatory or confrontational. We have to keep in mind that tone and attitude and even personality don't come across very well in a text format such as this. Even the use of emoticons may convey a different tone than what was intended.
Most people use visual emphasis, such as bold, large print, colors, etc. to try to convey a tone. But you can't really rely on that either. In JPG's case, I think he uses those elements to emphasize the context and content of his post, not to add attitude. Perhaps I'm wrong - I definitely haven't read every post here so can't say with authority - but I've never seen any of JPG's posts contain a personal flame or attack. Any flaming or attacking you see is your interpretation. That may be the message you receive, but it's not the message JPG is intending to send.
I've never seen JPG's posts as inflammatory or confrontational. We have to keep in mind that tone and attitude and even personality don't come across very well in a text format such as this. Even the use of emoticons may convey a different tone than what was intended.
Most people use visual emphasis, such as bold, large print, colors, etc. to try to convey a tone. But you can't really rely on that either. In JPG's case, I think he uses those elements to emphasize the context and content of his post, not to add attitude. Perhaps I'm wrong - I definitely haven't read every post here so can't say with authority - but I've never seen any of JPG's posts contain a personal flame or attack. Any flaming or attacking you see is your interpretation. That may be the message you receive, but it's not the message JPG is intending to send.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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terrydowning
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1678
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
I agree with Heath on this. Although sometimes it seems that some posters can wield the "idiot" stick and some readers may take this as a flame or personal insult. It is not. They do it because they care, not to inflame, insult, or get their kicks. They have learned from experience and wish to share their knowledge and skill. I for one would rather have a proverbial Internet idiot stick laid upside my head now and then as opposed to genuine injury or harm caused by a lack of knowledge or experience with a given tool or procedure.heathicus wrote:I have no experience with the lathe, so can't really comment there. But I do have a good bit of experience with internet based communication. So that I will comment on.
I've never seen JPG's posts as inflammatory or confrontational. We have to keep in mind that tone and attitude and even personality don't come across very well in a text format such as this. Even the use of emoticons may convey a different tone than what was intended.
Most people use visual emphasis, such as bold, large print, colors, etc. to try to convey a tone. But you can't really rely on that either. In JPG's case, I think he uses those elements to emphasize the context and content of his post, not to add attitude. Perhaps I'm wrong - I definitely haven't read every post here so can't say with authority - but I've never seen any of JPG's posts contain a personal flame or attack. Any flaming or attacking you see is your interpretation. That may be the message you receive, but it's not the message JPG is intending to send.
Keep the instructive posts and replies coming!!
--
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX