PowerPro - good news
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OK, JUST FOR YOU GUYSmickyd wrote:Photos guys, PLEASE.......photos!!!!!

The manual and DVD note that the 2 belts run plenty tight, in order to transmit over 1-hp at lower speeds. At lower speeds you get the sense that the electronics are regulating the speed, rather than the flywheel inertia effect as in the previous system. I will be interested in what other folks think of how this machine runs the heavy sanding disk -- it's a little different. It seems to electronically "clutch/unclutch" when you ramp it up to speed, for instance. That effect generally doesn't happen with a saw-blade or a drill-bit.
Through the old Service Plate... you can now do nothing, see nothing... except the electronics module:
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A good look at the motor mounting hardware. All screws are Metric. However, the TRUE GENIUS of Shopsmith has anticipated this decades ago, since 5/32 wrenches are virtually identical to 4mm wrenches:
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How everything nestles inside the motor pan:
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A nice picture of the operator's control panel. Cool shapes on it to let the headstock lock work with plenty of room:
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- Attachments
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- Motor Tucked In.jpg (40.04 KiB) Viewed 1931 times
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- Mounted Motor.jpg (38.29 KiB) Viewed 1931 times
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- No Room Left.jpg (30.57 KiB) Viewed 1929 times
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- Ready to Run.jpg (56.05 KiB) Viewed 1934 times
Chris
Great pics! Thanks!!
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Hi,
The new idler shaft is shown a few postings up in this thread. Another member also posted some diameter measurements of the key pulleys. The Drive Sleeve and the Upper Poly V belt are the same as in the previous design. The lower Poly V looks just like the upper Poly V belt, only longer.
The motor-mount actually has several sets of set-screws and locking features, but it is pre-aligned by Shopsmith. I have iterated my mounting adjustments just a tad bit to compensate for slight drilling errors of mine that I can see in the mount to the headstock-casting. When everything is right, you can hit 9500+ rpm. When there is anything wrong to apply binding or lateral forces or unbalanced vertical forces to the belts / bearings, then the machine won't hit that speed, not to mention making more noise and heat.
The backward compatibility of this design probably made for a lot of trouble designing it. If there was no need for the jointer-shaft, then I bet it would have been much easier with 1 belt!
The new idler shaft is shown a few postings up in this thread. Another member also posted some diameter measurements of the key pulleys. The Drive Sleeve and the Upper Poly V belt are the same as in the previous design. The lower Poly V looks just like the upper Poly V belt, only longer.
The motor-mount actually has several sets of set-screws and locking features, but it is pre-aligned by Shopsmith. I have iterated my mounting adjustments just a tad bit to compensate for slight drilling errors of mine that I can see in the mount to the headstock-casting. When everything is right, you can hit 9500+ rpm. When there is anything wrong to apply binding or lateral forces or unbalanced vertical forces to the belts / bearings, then the machine won't hit that speed, not to mention making more noise and heat.
The backward compatibility of this design probably made for a lot of trouble designing it. If there was no need for the jointer-shaft, then I bet it would have been much easier with 1 belt!
Chris
I think they're close....dusty wrote:In your photo image of the New Idler for 2 Poly Vs, do we see the same idler shaft assembly but with a new pulley for two Poly Vs being the only difference.
Similarities:
- Both have the same external machining for accepting a hub.
- Both fit the same current-style Eccentric.
- Both have steel inner shafts working ultimately with aluminum poly-V-grooved outer parts.
Differences:
- Power Pro idler shaft has no machined key slot.
- Power Pro idler shaft and pulleys are permanently joined (like later-style aluminum-grooved Poly-V Drive Sleeves are). In fact I'm not real sure how the bearings could be changed without changing the whole shaft; I would need to look again.
Chris
4 hour changeover? Took me about 12
Goodness, it took me 3 to 4 hours just to clean out the old headstock case. It had black rubber goop trapped in all the corners and tight places. Finally used acetone and cotton swabs to clean out the tight places. I wanted it to be real clean so nothing would eventually fall into any part of the control module. The power module and motor are pretty well sealed.
Took me another hour just to make the new power cord hole. As for the rest of time - guess I'm just slow.
Finally got to see the DVD (Thanks backhertz!) and found I had routed the power wires in the wrong place. After the DVD straightened me out, I removed the power module and routed the wires across the top of the poser module instead of beside it. Also found the wires in the cord use more freedom from the cord sheath - especially the ground wire!!!!! cut back the sheath 2.5", (could have used 3"). With this added length, the motor connected easily and it got fully running today.
Dusty - the idler shaft for the power pro is unlike the old Mark V shaft in that it is a lot shorter, only about 4". It also has a wider set of grooves to hold two poly V belts. The older shaft has the control sheave as part of the shaft, along with the keyway for the short key.
Took me another hour just to make the new power cord hole. As for the rest of time - guess I'm just slow.
Finally got to see the DVD (Thanks backhertz!) and found I had routed the power wires in the wrong place. After the DVD straightened me out, I removed the power module and routed the wires across the top of the poser module instead of beside it. Also found the wires in the cord use more freedom from the cord sheath - especially the ground wire!!!!! cut back the sheath 2.5", (could have used 3"). With this added length, the motor connected easily and it got fully running today.
Dusty - the idler shaft for the power pro is unlike the old Mark V shaft in that it is a lot shorter, only about 4". It also has a wider set of grooves to hold two poly V belts. The older shaft has the control sheave as part of the shaft, along with the keyway for the short key.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- mickyd
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I'm two days behind this but THANKS nuhobby. Great pictures!!! I was beginning to wonder if all these 'alleged' PowerPro shipments and receipts by members were for real.nuhobby wrote:OK, JUST FOR YOU GUYS.... I had the afternoon off and opened up the Power Pro. After an hour or so of running, thought I would recheck the belts and take some pictures. .........

Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego