I've turned a number of bowls from Ambrosia Maple. I use the wave discs with the non-powered rotary sanding tool from Woodcraft. I start w/ 100 then proceed 120, 180, 240, 320. The wave discs overlap the head of the sanding tool so it won't dig in. I turn the speed up fairly high as I progress to finer grades but keep the pressure light to minimize heat build up. The only time I notice any remaining scratches are very light ones on the bottom inside or outside - these I take care of by hand, sanding with the direction of the grain and running thru the grits as above.
I finish the bowls with a couple wipe on coats of Salad bowl oil and then buff with the Beal system to glass-like finish.
bowl sanding question
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Thanks, all, for the helpful replies. I picked up the non-powered sanding system from Woodcraft that markap mentioned, and progressed up the grits with reasonably good results. I think the problem I was having was that the maple was so soft that it was picking up scratches from darn near anything, including just a light touch with my fingernail.
I got a decent smooth finish on it with 400, then took it up to 1000, and put on a coat of pure tung oil. It looks real nice, and once the tung cures, I'll buff it out with 0000 steel wool and apply a few coats of the 1lb cut shellac I use for rifle stocks. I'll post a picture when it's done. :-)
Thanks!
-Chris
I got a decent smooth finish on it with 400, then took it up to 1000, and put on a coat of pure tung oil. It looks real nice, and once the tung cures, I'll buff it out with 0000 steel wool and apply a few coats of the 1lb cut shellac I use for rifle stocks. I'll post a picture when it's done. :-)
Thanks!
-Chris
Chris in CA
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Don't use it for a 'spiked' punch bowl!!!:eek::Dcml wrote:Thanks, all, for the helpful replies. I picked up the non-powered sanding system from Woodcraft that markap mentioned, and progressed up the grits with reasonably good results. I think the problem I was having was that the maple was so soft that it was picking up scratches from darn near anything, including just a light touch with my fingernail.
I got a decent smooth finish on it with 400, then took it up to 1000, and put on a coat of pure tung oil. It looks real nice, and once the tung cures, I'll buff it out with 0000 steel wool and apply a few coats of the 1lb cut shellac I use for rifle stocks. I'll post a picture when it's done. :-)
Thanks!
-Chris
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange