Shorty or No Shorty

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Nov 08, 2010 11:30 am

Why do a Shorty or Mini or Full Size - that is the question. I have never given it a lot of thought because I wasn't certain that I would ever have more than one Shopsmith. Now that I have a second one, I am faced with a decision.

Why might I want to shorten the tubes to develop something other than a full size Mark V 510?

Now please, I already know that a shorty or mini would take up less space in my already crowded work shop. I also know that it would be fun to do and would probably be an educational experience.

But other than these obvious points, is there any real advantage to having either a shorty or a mini?

FWIW: My headstock is S/N 152266 and it is a Model 510-R, whatever that means. My other one was born a 510. All the labels and stickers should arrive today.

easterngray · Post by **easterngray** » Mon Nov 08, 2010 11:42 am

I think you've covered it. I see no advantage other than space and portability. Alec

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Nov 08, 2010 12:00 pm

dusty wrote:Why do a Shorty or Mini or Full Size - that is the question. I have never given it a lot of thought because I wasn't certain that I would ever have more than one Shopsmith. Now that I have a second one, I am faced with a decision.

Why might I want to shorten the tubes to develop something other than a full size Mark V 510?

Now please, I already know that a shorty or mini would take up less space in my already crowded work shop. I also know that it would be fun to do and would probably be an educational experience.

But other than these obvious points, is there any real advantage to having either a shorty or a mini?

FWIW: My headstock is S/N 152266 and it is a Model 510-R, whatever that means. My other one was born a 510. All the labels and stickers should arrive today.

Since you already have a power station and a crafters station, you probably do not need a shorter Mk V(although a shorty improves upon a power station.)

Since I do not think you are starved for space, a mini/shorty does not make much sense(cutting those tubes is not a fun project anyway).

8iowa · Post by **8iowa** » Mon Nov 08, 2010 1:54 pm

Dusty:

I really like having two Shopsmiths in my "Workshop in the Woods", which is a modified 24'x28' "garage package". If you have a two car garage, you can make two machines work well for you.

I have one Shopsmith set-up with an Incra 5000 sled. Here I do all my precision crosscuts. The second Shopsmith is my "versatile" machine, often used for ripping, dado, and drilling. The jointer gets mounted on it when needed. This second machine will soon have the PowerPro upgrade.

Like you, I also have a power station, usually the bandsaw sits on it, although it can be used for the scroll saw and belt sander. My 1985 planer is still going strong and is now mounted on it's own power stand.

I can't think of how I could improve on my present situation. In a "nutshell", keep the second Shopsmith intact.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Mon Nov 08, 2010 4:02 pm

dusty wrote:Why do a Shorty or Mini or Full Size - that is the question. I have never given it a lot of thought because I wasn't certain that I would ever have more than one Shopsmith. Now that I have a second one, I am faced with a decision.

Why might I want to shorten the tubes to develop something other than a full size Mark V 510?

I have only used the earlier Marks Vs as MINI (26 3/8" shorter, no carriage) and SHORTY (18" shorter with 500 carriage) bases. I have found most of the 3/4 HP motor and Gilmer Drive (Greenies and some Goldens) are not ideal for any table sawing functions. Therefore, I buy and rebuild them as a Power Station or Craft Station substitutes (MINI or SHORTY) for a lot less invested than buying and rebuilding the 1 1/8 HP and Poly-V drive headstocks or rebuilding the actual Stations. The 3/4 HP motor and Gilmer drive will power/drive any SPT except the thickness planer. I find the Greenie headstock casing is thicker and helps damp vibration and noise better than in the later model headstock casings.

I added the FWD/REV capability to the MINIs or SHORTYs I have available along with 110 VAC or 220 VAC input power. I find the Mark V in the drill press function may not clear some open garage doors so you may be somewhat limited to where the Mark V can be positioned.

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Mon Nov 08, 2010 4:40 pm

I'm pretty sure my SHORTY can lift to drill-press position without hitting the aluminum-tabled bandsaw. (Might come in handy some day.)

If a SHORTY is dedicated to the OPR, it's somewhat more portable than would be the case with a 2nd full-length Mark V.

I should confess I came into a SHORTY by way of (years ago) overtightening my headstock and putting dents in my long way-tubes. When I secured new way-tubes for my main Mark V, then the SHORTY came about with the salvaged "good" lengths of my older tubes.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Nov 08, 2010 4:58 pm

Thank you for that reminder. I do plan to have an OPR one day and just maybe the 2nd Mark V should be tagged for that function. I really had not thought that far ahead.

OPR at one end and Jointer at the other. Can this be a Shorty?

One Power Station dedicated to Sanding functions.

Crafter's Station remaining the base for my Router Table and Incra Fence.

Move the Bandsaw from the Power Station to one end of the Mark V where Jointer is now.

There might be a good selling point there too. If I could convince her that since nearly all the parts are there already and all I need more is a couple hundred (or so) in order to have a complete OPR Station. Hmmm, timing is going to be all important.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Mon Nov 08, 2010 5:06 pm

You basically lose the drill press and lathe on a mini. I have given the shorter ones a lot of thought but done nothing so far.
I have often thought about making a welded up set of short tubes mounted on a heavy steel plate and just sticking out so I could mount a headstock on them and have the quill end sticking out into the room (plate bolted to a wall or post) for buffing large items and the insides of some items. That may sound a little dangerous but most industrial buffers are much like that except two ended. Much like using a chainsaw if the machine is a little dangerous then you want to be a LOT careful around it. It doesn't mean that you shouldn't do it...

I have also considered making up a set of tubes like that and having it so I could bolt them to a common engine stand so I could slide a headstock on them and be able to rotate it 360 degrees and lock it in place where needed to be able to work on one.
The other length modification I have given thought to is stretching one for use as an extra long lathe. I'm thinking maybe at least 8' between centers. Of course that would need much more modification than just longer tubes. Probably a new tool rest system that clamped down all the way below the bench tubes. The 2 pairs of tubes would likely be the only real modifications needed and it could be converted back to a standard unit again in quite short order.
It might be possible to find a size of pipe, tube or even angle iron that would press or drive inside of the tubes to make them even stronger and heavier.
Two or three sliding clamps (probably wood) both vertically and horizontally between the 4 tubes could also make it more rigid and be easily loosened and slid to out of the way locations and re tightened as you worked.
I should mention that I am thinking one piece porch post here...
.
Oops! Almost broke into a full scale ramble there...

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Nov 08, 2010 5:18 pm

It would be easier to make the post in two(or more) interlocking pieces than elongate the SS.

I think a mini makes a nice pen lathe as well as a power source for spt's on the left end.

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Mon Nov 08, 2010 7:36 pm

8iowa wrote:Dusty:

I really like having two Shopsmiths in my "Workshop in the Woods", which is a modified 24'x28' "garage package". If you have a two car garage, you can make two machines work well for you.

I have one Shopsmith set-up with an Incra 5000 sled. Here I do all my precision crosscuts. The second Shopsmith is my "versatile" machine, often used for ripping, dado, and drilling. The jointer gets mounted on it when needed. This second machine will soon have the PowerPro upgrade.

Like you, I also have a power station, usually the bandsaw sits on it, although it can be used for the scroll saw and belt sander. My 1985 planer is still going strong and is now mounted on it's own power stand.

I can't think of how I could improve on my present situation. In a "nutshell", keep the second Shopsmith intact.

Now I am drooling all over my reasonably clean shirt. I received word my Power Pro shipped last Friday. Can you believe they even warned me to be home on Wednesday to receive it. The foundation for my shop is completed. I can't wait to join the multiple Mark V club with a Power Pro and 2nd 520 sporting the Incra TSIII. I do feel fortunate to have my shortened tube dedicated OPR (I call this one my 1/2 Mark V). I am so excited that I have cut out yellow sticky tool shaped representations and keep rearranging the lay out for my new playroom. Yes I do I favor second Mark V. Another great idea is a dedicated OPR. Fjimp:)