Slipping fence
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Slipping fence
I just noticed this yesterday in trying a horizontal boring method. When putting some pressure on the hardwood piece with the drill bit, my fence kept slipping away. This is a Mark V 520 with a pro fence upgrade. I always lock the lower fence lever first, then the upper. I tried tightening the nuts on each lever just a little. No matter what, it still slipped. I kept trying with gradual adjustments until it was so tight I could no longer lock down the fence levers.
I checked to make sure the engagement wedges and rails were clean. Also I checked visually for damage to either the wedges and rails. They both looked fine.
The fence is tight enough that normal pressure on the fence from a ripping procedure would not move it. So far this is just happening with the extre pressure imposed with horizontal boring.
Anybody else have this problem? What to do?
Hal
I checked to make sure the engagement wedges and rails were clean. Also I checked visually for damage to either the wedges and rails. They both looked fine.
The fence is tight enough that normal pressure on the fence from a ripping procedure would not move it. So far this is just happening with the extre pressure imposed with horizontal boring.
Anybody else have this problem? What to do?
Hal
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judaspre1982
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DT aka Agent Orange is a POS
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DT aka Agent Orange is a POS
Liar Liar his wonky comb over is on fire
Last edited by judaspre1982 on Mon Jun 05, 2017 12:18 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Dave,
Wow -fast response. Thanks.
The 520 fence upgrade replaced the rails and provided a sturdier fence with two clamping handle locks. The first was the same as the prior model, squaring the fence and locking onto the tube. The second lever provides another measure of firmness by clamping down on the back rail.
I hadn't really thought about using some auxiliary clamps. I'm sure that would work.
Dont know if this is the case, but I was hoping that there was something I wasn't doing properly, or some little adjustment that would make it good.
Thanks again for the good idea. That'll certainly get me through the next time I have to use that method.
Thanks again
Hal
Wow -fast response. Thanks.
The 520 fence upgrade replaced the rails and provided a sturdier fence with two clamping handle locks. The first was the same as the prior model, squaring the fence and locking onto the tube. The second lever provides another measure of firmness by clamping down on the back rail.
I hadn't really thought about using some auxiliary clamps. I'm sure that would work.
Dont know if this is the case, but I was hoping that there was something I wasn't doing properly, or some little adjustment that would make it good.
Thanks again for the good idea. That'll certainly get me through the next time I have to use that method.
Thanks again
Hal
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judaspre1982
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- Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:10 pm
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Last edited by judaspre1982 on Thu May 11, 2017 12:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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judaspre1982
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- Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:10 pm
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Last edited by judaspre1982 on Thu May 11, 2017 12:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By slowly tightening each of the two nuts, you have done what I would expect to cure the problem. One thought is that there may be some foreign material (like wax) on the rails that may be reducing the coefficient of friction between rail and fence lock. Another thought is to make sure your drill bit is sharp and make sure you let the bit do the work (try not to force the bit), clearing chips often.hfmann wrote:I just noticed this yesterday in trying a horizontal boring method. When putting some pressure on the hardwood piece with the drill bit, my fence kept slipping away. This is a Mark V 520 with a pro fence upgrade. I always lock the lower fence lever first, then the upper. I tried tightening the nuts on each lever just a little. No matter what, it still slipped. I kept trying with gradual adjustments until it was so tight I could no longer lock down the fence levers.
I checked to make sure the engagement wedges and rails were clean. Also I checked visually for damage to either the wedges and rails. They both looked fine.
The fence is tight enough that normal pressure on the fence from a ripping procedure would not move it. So far this is just happening with the extre pressure imposed with horizontal boring.
Anybody else have this problem? What to do?
Hal
FYI, there is no equivalent piece on the 520 fence like the one on the far end lock of the 510 fence. On the 510 fence, the plastic piece increases the friction between the rear fence rail and the back fence lock.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
- dusty
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I do not believe you can solve this problem by adjusting the fence lock any tighter. In fact, you may want to back it off a little so that it works properly as a "rip fence lock" and then reassess the problem. The first thing I would do is make certain that the drill bit is sharp and the drill speed is correct (slow) - (real slow).hfmann wrote:I just noticed this yesterday in trying a horizontal boring method. When putting some pressure on the hardwood piece with the drill bit, my fence kept slipping away. This is a Mark V 520 with a pro fence upgrade. I always lock the lower fence lever first, then the upper. I tried tightening the nuts on each lever just a little. No matter what, it still slipped. I kept trying with gradual adjustments until it was so tight I could no longer lock down the fence levers.
I checked to make sure the engagement wedges and rails were clean. Also I checked visually for damage to either the wedges and rails. They both looked fine.
The fence is tight enough that normal pressure on the fence from a ripping procedure would not move it. So far this is just happening with the extre pressure imposed with horizontal boring.
Anybody else have this problem? What to do?
Hal
Drill the hole slowly - don't rush it. Quill pressure should be very little more than what is required to keep the drill bit in constant contact.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- JPG
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Thanks for the pix! I have not seen a 520 rear fence clamp b4. I am amazed the clamp holds at all! There is so little clamp surface area! I assume the black part is a 'skid' that rides on the top of the rear 'rail' and the clamp presses against the rear surface of that rail near the top.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
