1962 Goldie Disassembly

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hew
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Location: Southeast MO

Post by hew »

If you already have fan out and there is nothing holding on to the shaft try tapping on it lightly using a block of wood as a cushion.
hew
Shopsmith - Mark V 500, Mark V 510/520, Bandsaw, Jointer, Belt Sander, Scroll Saw, Strip Sander, Planer on powerstand, Router Arm w/under table router, Dust Collector, Ryobi BT 3000 TS, Porter Cable 12" Mitersaw, Routers - Hitachi M12V, M12VC Base & Plunge, Ryobi RE600, Porter Cable 690 Base & Plunge
hew
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Post by hew »

I put bearings in mine on Friday. It is an Emerson brand and the starter is inside on the shaft. My fan came off of the shaft easily. Then I lifted the shaft out of the motor windings. If the shaft does lift out maybe something is connected to the points end of the shaft.
hew
Shopsmith - Mark V 500, Mark V 510/520, Bandsaw, Jointer, Belt Sander, Scroll Saw, Strip Sander, Planer on powerstand, Router Arm w/under table router, Dust Collector, Ryobi BT 3000 TS, Porter Cable 12" Mitersaw, Routers - Hitachi M12V, M12VC Base & Plunge, Ryobi RE600, Porter Cable 690 Base & Plunge
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mikelst
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Post by mikelst »

ddvann79 wrote:It is just a 3.2 mega pixel camera. :)

Thanks for the assurances, Dusty. I'll have to look into that bearing. I really don't want to replace it if I don't have to. Hmmmm...
The bearings are available here in Dallas, It is worth the time to replace them while it is apart (IMHO). and the cost is not that great.

I would be glad to provide purchasing info if you need to know where.

Looking good so far.:)
Mike......... Rowlett, Texas, near Dallas
86 MK V 500/520. 59 MK 5 Greenie Shorty. SS Jointer, SS Planer,
SS Bandsaw, SS Lathe duplicator, SS Belt Sander,SS Molder & Shaper,
SS Tenon master jig, SS Mortising kit, SS 2 1/4' Drum Sanders, Ringmaster, DC3300....
hew
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Location: Southeast MO

Post by hew »

My bearings are different sizes on shaft. When you get off slip each on your finger and see if goes the same distance on your finger. The was so every small difference. But that was an Emerson.
hew
Shopsmith - Mark V 500, Mark V 510/520, Bandsaw, Jointer, Belt Sander, Scroll Saw, Strip Sander, Planer on powerstand, Router Arm w/under table router, Dust Collector, Ryobi BT 3000 TS, Porter Cable 12" Mitersaw, Routers - Hitachi M12V, M12VC Base & Plunge, Ryobi RE600, Porter Cable 690 Base & Plunge
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ddvann79
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Post by ddvann79 »

hew wrote:On the long shaft end look up from the bottom through the fan opening. There be set screw that you see as you turn the shaft. After you loosen the set screw and remove the 4 long screws on the capacitor that end that is holding both ends of the motor. Sorry you already have the long screws out. With the set screw loose pull the shaft end cap of the motor (fan housing)off.
Thanks, Hew.

It goes to show you need the right tool for the job. I haven't been able to get at that set screw because I don't have the SS tool kit or other allen wrench long enough to reach it. I tried making one last night with no success. If I'd have just purchased the right tool, I would have had the fan sheave off and probably seen the next logical step.

Mike,

If you would let me know of a good bearing shop, that would be great. I've been looking at a couple of websites for bearings but I wanted to do business locally.
Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
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ddvann79
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Motor and Worktable Problems

Post by ddvann79 »

1. Alright, I still can't get the motor apart and now I HAVE to in order to resecure a washer that has slipped down the shaft internally. :mad: I know each end plate should come off I just don't know how. A.O. Smith still makes motors but no longer a 1 1/8. They have some interesting resources like this A/C D/C manual but nothing about this 50-year-old motor.

Here are some shots of the beast. I've removed every screw I can find that I believe would hold it together. Nothing. One end has rivets in it but they are not structural. Can somebody help?

[ATTACH]10938[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]10939[/ATTACH]

The motor plate data is:
A.O. Smith Corp
Electric Motor Div. – Tipp City, Ohio, U.S.A

Model: C48L2A1
HP: 1.125
RPM: 3,450
CY: 60
PH: 1
SF: 1
Volts: 115
Amps: 13.5
SF Amps: 13.5
Code: H
Type: CS
Ser: J61
FR: 48
Rise: 50 “degree” C
Duty: Cont



2.
I haven't been able to remove the stud in the work table that holds the trunnion to the tie bar. Does it just require a punch to knock it out? I also notice the exploded diagram shows a "tie bar shield" which I do not have. Did the Goldies come with one? I'm betting not.

[ATTACH]10940[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]10941[/ATTACH]

These photos don't show it but all screws have been removed from the table. The only think holding the trunnion on now is that stud.
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IMG01242-20101118-2054.jpg (105.6 KiB) Viewed 3479 times
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IMG01272-20101118-2158.jpg (130.64 KiB) Viewed 3483 times
IMG01268-20101118-2140.jpg
IMG01268-20101118-2140.jpg (120.58 KiB) Viewed 3473 times
Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

re motor......I can only speak of my ER10 motor. I whacked the shaft with a nylon mallet and the back popped off. Bill Mayo shared that secret with me.

re trunnion......if your just trying to remove the trunnion from the stud, you turn the locking nut clockwise to tighten it so that you can file down the deformation made to the stud by the punch. Once it's cleaned up, you can remove the locking nut. Use protected pliers to turn the locking nut.
Mike
Sunny San Diego
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nuhobby
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Post by nuhobby »

I'm pretty sure those 2 screws near the copper leaf-contacts are holding a bearing-retainer, so they are effectively holding the "wires end" of the motor onto the shaft. If you remove those screws, then the "wires end" cap of the motor can come off.
Chris
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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

nuhobby wrote:I'm pretty sure those 2 screws near the copper leaf-contacts are holding a bearing-retainer, so they are effectively holding the "wires end" of the motor onto the shaft. If you remove those screws, then the "wires end" cap of the motor can come off.
Yes, those 2 screws holding the end bearing needs to be removed plus the screw holding the centrifugal weight assembly to the end of the shaft. This screw is under the tip that pushes on the contact strip. This can be a very diffficult screw to remove as the weights are always in the way even when the springs are disconnected. I use an old trick for loosening this screw and retightening it. I use a nail center punch and set the point at the outter edge of the screw's flat blade screwdrive slot so when I tap the punch, it will slowly rotate the head of the screw. I have a #2 phillips screw driver reground for a flat blade end that works some times. I use the punch to tighten this screw. It can be very difficult to center the weight assembly on the end of the shaft and tighten this screw at the same time. I normally file the end of the slot on the motor shaft to remove any sharp edges so the weight assembly will fit smoothly and prefit the weight assembly before assembling the motor. You have to make sure the bearing retainer plate in on the motor shaft before installing the end bearing.

I have been replacing the copper leaf contact assembly when wires are soldered with a new assembly with slip-on .250 flat connectors so I can remove the end plate. You have to be careful not to destroy any wire insulation to the contact assembly when moving the end plate to secure the bearing retaining plate with its screws.

I will be happy to respond to any questions and have some pictures available.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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ddvann79
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas

RE Chris - Nuhobby

Post by ddvann79 »

nuhobby wrote:I'm pretty sure those 2 screws near the copper leaf-contacts are holding a bearing-retainer, so they are effectively holding the "wires end" of the motor onto the shaft. If you remove those screws, then the "wires end" cap of the motor can come off.
Chris,

You are correct. That's the "washer" I was referring to that has fallen down the shaft. I have been able to pop the unpainted "wires end" cap out of the housing but it only moves about 1/4" and then stops. The cap moves free of the housing but the shaft/bearing connection doesn't pop loose very easily and I'm afraid to pry too hard. I'm not entirely sure what's keeping it.

As for the "fan sheave" end, the unpainted end cap won't twist or otherwise pop out of the housing. At least, I haven't applied enough force for it to come off. Should I just twist the end caps until they pull out? From a the exploded diagrams I've found online, it looks like the shaft, bearings and end caps assembly are just pressed together. Am I reading the tea leaves correctly?

Maybe I just haven't applied enough elbow grease but in several instances on this project I've found I had something else to loosen first. I snapped off a chip from the table tie bar casting (it was already cracked, though) from this method too so I'm a little gun shy.
Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
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