Mark V Model 520 Rip Scale Upgrade

[horologist]

While it is convenient to be able to quickly set the fence to an approximate dimension, if I had to make the chooice, there are other tools where the $151.90 would be better spent.

Troy

[Ed in Tampa]

I have real mixed emotions about the rule.
Being an old school Shop Smith person I was taught to use the quill to sneak up on my desired rip width.

In the old school ShopSmith courses under which I learned you moved the fence to within approx. 1/4 inch of where you wanted it and then loosened the headstock quill lock and snuck up on the exact measurement. I forced myself to learn this method discarding my shop days training. Now I find it hard to got back. Being able to bump the blade as little as 1/128" is hard to pass up

Also like someone mentioned the rule almost has to be checked for zero everytime a measurement is made. I find it a lot easier to use a steel rule, set my fence to close to the measurement and then sweeten the precision by moving the quill/blade.

What I do use it for is the old measure twice cut once. More than once the rule caught mistakes like 32" instead of 23" or 10 3/4 not 11 1/4.

If there was a way to tie the rule directly to the blade so it was always zeroed out I suspect I would use it more.

[jimthej]

Mine came with the 520 upgrade. I am not sure I would buy it separately. I use it a lot, however. A couple of years ago, I figured out an easy way to check it for accuracy.
I glued up some MDF and shaped it to make a 1-2-3 block like machinists use. Got the idea from one of the forums. Coated it with poly to prevent moisture changes. (1" x 2" x 3")
I slide the block up to the blade so it meets with 2 or 3 teeth. Slide the fence over to the block and let it spring back (I'm a heavy handed fence pusher). Lock the fence so the friction feel of the block is like a feeler gauge in a VW valve. Pull the rule over to the correct mark on the pointer. Rechecks done the same way.
Storage is 3 small magnets glued to the shop door facing. 2 side by side about chin height(carefully measured thrice) and one about 2 feet below. The long rule sticks to the upper and lower magnets, and the short one to the single upper.

[keakap]

...but there is nothing I can think of that cannot be done on a 510. ...
But, alignment is still the critical element. To get the best from either system, they must be aligned accurately and "to the degree of accuracy" that one expects to get in the end. ...

One thing a 510 fence can do a 520 cannot: mount from either side, front or back. And yes, this does have some uses.

Alignment: yep, you can align it just about as tight as you could want. It seems to be worth the trouble as it pretty much stays put once done.
I learned, though, and the hard way, that you go thru the alignments and adjustments as prescribed, then you go thru whichever of them you need to to get what you want, ignoring any "factory" steps you need to.
I had to buy three new aux tables and do some home "tweaking" (i.e. ignore the instructions) to get mine right (or as close to it as I can stand). But it is worth it now. Can't do everything it should, but enough.

[keakap]

Does anyone have this rip scale? What is your opinion of it?

Any and all comments appreciated.

It is on sale and I am considering getting it and wondering if it is worth the money.

TIA

My upgrade also came with the scale, so I can't say the 520 was better or not without it. BUT...
I do remember now, since the subject came up, the stiff neck, sore eyes and back, all the cursing going on (oh, that was me!), etc., that went with not having a scale with the old setup, when trying to reposition for a "tweaking cut" for instance.
Most of the time I don't use the "Zero" reference, although it takes only seconds to set. Usually I'm using the in-position scale to move the fence "a hair" closer or farther, or exactly 1/32" more or less to a cut just made.
The convenience there alone is worth it to me, I just now realized. I hadn't thought before about how much I use it. A lot.

Coincidentally right now my SS is set up with full Aux complement on the right, with the thirty something inch long rule in place. (Once zeroed) I got very accurate cuts from the scale system, no worse than using any other measurement devices I would otherwise use. It can work.
(Accurate? I started out using an extra 1/64 (visually half a 1/32 on the rule) to be safe. After a couple of dead on cuts I went back to the exact measurement.)

But-- (there's always a but)-- in the end it depends on how ya use it.

[keakap]

I have real mixed emotions about the rule.
Being an old school Shop Smith person I was taught to use the quill to sneak up on my desired rip width.

In the old school ShopSmith courses under which I learned you moved the fence to within approx. 1/4 inch of where you wanted it and then loosened the headstock quill lock and snuck up on the exact measurement. I forced myself to learn this method discarding my shop days training. Now I find it hard to got back. Being able to bump the blade as little as 1/128" is hard to pass up

Also like someone mentioned the rule almost has to be checked for zero everytime a measurement is made. I find it a lot easier to use a steel rule, set my fence to close to the measurement and then sweeten the precision by moving the quill/blade.

What I do use it for is the old measure twice cut once. More than once the rule caught mistakes like 32" instead of 23" or 10 3/4 not 11 1/4.

If there was a way to tie the rule directly to the blade so it was always zeroed out I suspect I would use it more.

A few good points there, Ed. Thanks.
Reminds me that I often forget the quill feed altogether, which is a shame.

[lv2wdwrk]

Guys, thanks for all the great responses. You have given me a lot to ponder.

Since I have done without a scale on a tablesaw for many years, I am leaning toward getting a GOOD metal rule and save the balance for something else.

Any advise as to what and where to get an easy to read(eyes ya know) good rule - length, color(background, markings, etc).

TIA

[ryanbp01]

When the rip scale fence upgrade was first offered, I purchased it. I have been extremely satisfied with it The rules have come in handy other than being used as rip scales.

BPR

[keakap]

Since I have done without a scale on a tablesaw for many years, I am leaning toward getting a GOOD metal rule and save the balance for something else.

Any advise as to what and where to get an easy to read(eyes ya know) good rule - length, color(background, markings, etc).TIA

I am extremely pleased with my Bridge City Tool Works rules, for the reasons you mention and others. The SR-6 also has end markings, which do get used.
Not too much $$ either. Speaking of that detail, I wanted a thicker tougher small rule too, so I got the blade only, for the 6" combination square. This is the one I usually have in my pocket. Not expensive either.

On the more expensive side, I also got the 18" blade for the original 12" combination square. It is pricey (would make a good birthday present) but oh my is it a beaut.

That may be something to keep in mind as you search. You don't need the whole Combo Square package, see if you can buy just the (replacement) blade.

This may not help your current requirement, but it's new (to me) and pretty neat: ProCarpenter "Old Standby Flatback" 16 foot tape (details at fastcap.com). Inexpensive and loaded with features. Just been length-cutting a slew of 2x4s in groups of varying sizes. Using my SS sled with an add-on piece of wood to take the fence right up to the blade, put the 2x4 on it, run the tape from the right end (pre square-cut) up to the cut distance then put a square on the piece with the blade laying across the flat tape with its right edge on the measure needed, then slide the 2x4 with square and rule to the right til the blade touches the end of the sled's fence (which is the cut position). This done gently. Then while firmly holding the 2x4 down, remove square and tape and cut away. Perfect.
This is much easier than it sounds, quicker too. It works because of the flat tape and the very fine gradation markings on the tape, with the added benefit of not needing any pencil markings or transfers or whatever. The alignment to the saw blade is purely mechanical (square's blade touching fence cut-off edge).

In fact, maybe some pictures are in order...

[keakap]

...the flat tape and the very fine gradation markings on the tape, ...
In fact, maybe some pictures are in order...

31- pre setup, 2x4 to be cut to 16" length, tape, sled (sled fence attachment already run thru blade)]11000[/ATTACH]

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