Drive Assy

[aloneryd]

I have a greenie, mark V. Ok , On the sawdust video, he shows a ribbed drive belt ,he install 3 ribs from the left, well my drive belt is a cogged belt. How does the alignment proceedure go on this type belt. Perhaps my machine is alittle newer than I thought,for it also has the oil holes in the sheeves and the access door pops off the left side for access. I tried finding a serial number plate or sticker, no use. I don't want to order wrong parts,so is there another way of year identification other than green ? Thanks

[Ron309753]

The cogged belt is called a Gilmer belt. It preceded the poly-v (ribbed) belt. Greenies had the Gilmer, but I’m not sure precisely when the change was made to poly-v. Someone else can tell you that.

I have the original directions from ShopSmith (Yuba) on how to change the belt. When I get home I can scan them for you. When I rebuilt my greenie I just tried to make sure that the belt was centered on the idler pulley.

I also do not think that the greenies had the oiling holes. I drilled holes in the control sheave and floating sheave per Bill Mayo’s directions. If you are the not the original owner, perhaps the original owner drilled the holes or replaced the sheaves with newer ones.

Sincerely,

Ron309753

[JPG]

I have a greenie, mark V. Ok , On the sawdust video, he shows a ribbed drive belt ,he install 3 ribs from the left, well my drive belt is a cogged belt. How does the alignment proceedure go on this type belt. Perhaps my machine is alittle newer than I thought,for it also has the oil holes in the sheeves and the access door pops off the left side for access. I tried finding a serial number plate or sticker, no use. I don't want to order wrong parts,so is there another way of year identification other than green ? Thanks

You have a 'Gilmer' type belt drive. There is no front to rear alignment requirement(other than the belt rubbing against something).

FWIW, It MAY behoove you to upgrade to the poly-v pulley system. Unfortunately it ain't inexpensive. It would however replace all wear prone parts except the control sheave(considering the other post it may also need replacing). As far as these parts are concerned the only differences are the gilmer/poly-v pulleys/belts.

What you have described is a non-early(non-sandcast headstock) vintage greenie. They all were of the gilmer drive type. You have a 'type B' headstock casting.

And then there is the power pro upgrade!;)

[billmayo]

You have a 'Gilmer' type belt drive. There is no front to rear alignment requirement(other than the belt rubbing against something).

What you have described is a non-early(non-sandcast headstock) vintage greenie. They all were of the gilmer drive type. You have a 'type B' headstock casting.

I find doing a front to rear alignment on the Gilmer Drive belt can prevent the Gilmer belt from riding againest the Gilmer clutch drive sleeve pulley housing edge and fraying/destroying the Gilmer belt over time. I find this is the most common problem when the Gilmer belt needs replacement.

If you have a screw and washer above the eccentric bushing, then I seat the eccentric bushing againest the washer and slide/tap the idle shaft inward so the Gilmer belt rides about 1/4" off the clutch drive sleeve edge when turning the quill/drive sleeve shaft by hand in its normal direction. Then I tighten the eccentric bushing set screw (do not over tighten) and tension the Gilmer belt for a 1/8"-1/4" deflection by turning the eccentric bushing.

If there is 2 clamps held by the eccentric bushing bolt, I hack saw the front tips off, seat the eccentric bushing againest the back clamp tips and slide/tap the idler shaft inward until the Gilmer belt rides about a 1/4" off the drive sleeve edge while doing the above directions.

[aloneryd]

For the Gilmer drive belt info. much apreciated

[Cavediver]

I find doing a front to rear alignment on the Gilmer Drive belt can prevent the Gilmer belt from riding againest the Gilmer clutch drive sleeve pulley housing edge and fraying/destroying the Gilmer belt over time. I find this is the most common problem when the Gilmer belt needs replacement.

If you have a screw and washer above the eccentric bushing, then I seat the eccentric bushing againest the washer and slide/tap the idle shaft inward so the Gilmer belt rides about 1/4" off the clutch drive sleeve edge when turning the quill/drive sleeve shaft by hand in its normal direction. Then I tighten the eccentric bushing set screw (do not over tighten) and tension the Gilmer belt for a 1/8"-1/4" deflection by turning the eccentric bushing.

If there is 2 clamps held by the eccentric bushing bolt, I hack saw the front tips off, seat the eccentric bushing againest the back clamp tips and slide/tap the idler shaft inward until the Gilmer belt rides about a 1/4" off the drive sleeve edge while doing the above directions.

The eccentric bushing has a set screw that seats into a groove in the idler shaft bearing. If I follow the process above, it sounds like that set screw will no longer sit in the groove. Is this correct, or should I move the entire assembly (including the eccentric bushing) towards the rear?

Thanks!

[billmayo]

The eccentric bushing has a set screw that seats into a groove in the idler shaft bearing. If I follow the process above, it sounds like that set screw will no longer sit in the groove. Is this correct, or should I move the entire assembly (including the eccentric bushing) towards the rear?

Thanks!

Some idler shaft bearings did not have the center groove. I use a cup type set screw in the eccentric bushings I use. This way I do not have to worry about the set screw point going into the idler shaft bearing groove. This allows me to position the idler shaft within the eccentric bushing which I seat even with the back of the headstock casing.

You can set the idler shaft bearing back edge even with the eccentric bushing back edge and then move the eccentric bushing to get the Gilmer belt to ride about 1/4" off the clutch drive sleeve edge when turning the quill/drive sleeve shaft by hand in its normal direction. If clamps were used, I saw off one ear and retain the other ear that lets allows the clamps to be used and allows the eccentric bushing to move inward for belt alignment. Recently, I switched to drilling and tapping for a screw and washer to hold the eccentric bushing and not using the clamps. You must have some way to prevent the eccentric bushing from coming out of the rear of the headstock casing if the eccentric bolt or set screw lossens. The eccentric bushing will never move forward due to belt pressure. Do not overtighten the eccentric set screw as this can damage the bearing (ticking noise) or the eccentric bolt as a headstock casing ear can break.