1962 Goldie Disassembly

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

mickyd wrote:No offense. Evaporust works excellent (and even better) for reasons mentioned. Half my pleasure comes from just watching the electrolysis process in action. :D
That anything like watching the clothes rotate in the laundry machine?:p

What's the other half?:rolleyes:
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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ddvann79
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Post by ddvann79 »

JPG40504 wrote:...evaporust... gets both inside and outside.
JPG,

I'm with you on the smaller parts.

JPG/Mike,

Question: wouldn't electrolysis remove rust from the inside of the tubes also? The piece is completely submerged and there is a current flowing through the whole piece.
Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

ddvann79 wrote:JPG,

I'm with you on the smaller parts.

JPG/Mike,

Question: wouldn't electrolysis remove rust from the inside of the tubes also? The piece is completely submerged and there is a current flowing through the whole piece.

The electrolysis is a 'line of sight' reaction. It does not occur in all directions. IF an anode(sacrificial iron) were placed in the center of the tube, it would also be effective on the inside.

BTW electrolysis is also an effect paint remover. Slow, but effective(some scrubbing required on stubborn areas).
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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ddvann79
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Withdrawals

Post by ddvann79 »

Going on day three without being able to work on the Shopsmith. Two more to go. Holiday traveling is killer. Thank goodness for this forum so I can get a fix.
Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
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ddvann79
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Christmas Came Early

Post by ddvann79 »

In addition to having a good time with my family over the Thanksgiving holiday, I "enjoyed" digging through boxes Dad had stored away. I was rewarded with a small stash of accessories for the Goldie. I found two aluminum sanding discs, tool rest, live center, hold-down, lathe chuck, drum sander insert, another arbor, and over a dozen lathe chisels. I also came home with a couple of shop text books Dad used when he was an Ag teacher that were copyrighted in the early sixties.

To my dismay, I haven't found the auxiliary table, fence, drill chuck and a few other odds and ends. However, I'm pleased with the haul.

[ATTACH]11057[/ATTACH]

When we got home this evening and I found a few shipments waiting for me in the mailbox. The bearings came in, as did a caution sticker, courtesy of my favorite Shopsmith owner in San Diego. Thanks, Mike!

[ATTACH]11058[/ATTACH]

So after getting back out to the shop tonight, I worked on cleaning up a few ends with a nylon cup brush and mineral spirits. One of the pieces I worked on is the power switch. It's in good shape but had some corrosion on the toggle. I learned that it is plated metal, as I unintentionally took off the plating with a wire wheel and exposed a goldish looking substrate. Not sure how to deal with that just yet. What's more, this item illustrates the issue I'm running into most at this stage - how to get corrosion out of nooks and crannies. Some parts can be soaked and brushed up but others, like the toggle switch, or fan sheaves, are more difficult to get cleaned up.

Anybody have any tricks they would be willing to share? Dental tools? Carb cleaner? I've just about worn out a toothbrush and brass brush and haven't had much luck with some of the corrosion.
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Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

ddvann79 wrote:In addition to having a good time with my family over the Thanksgiving holiday, I "enjoyed" digging through boxes Dad had stored away. I was rewarded with a small stash of accessories for the Goldie. I found two aluminum sanding discs, tool rest, live center, hold-down, lathe chuck, drum sander insert, another arbor, and over a dozen lathe chisels. I also came home with a couple of shop text books Dad used when he was an Ag teacher that were copyrighted in the early sixties.

To my dismay, I haven't found the auxiliary table, fence, drill chuck and a few other odds and ends. However, I'm pleased with the haul.

[ATTACH]11057[/ATTACH]

When we got home this evening and I found a few shipments waiting for me in the mailbox. The bearings came in, as did a caution sticker, courtesy of my favorite Shopsmith owner in San Diego. Thanks, Mike!

[ATTACH]11058[/ATTACH]

So after getting back out to the shop tonight, I worked on cleaning up a few ends with a nylon cup brush and mineral spirits. One of the pieces I worked on is the power switch. It's in good shape but had some corrosion on the toggle. I learned that it is plated metal, as I unintentionally took off the plating with a wire wheel and exposed a goldish looking substrate. Not sure how to deal with that just yet. What's more, this item illustrates the issue I'm running into most at this stage - how to get corrosion out of nooks and crannies. Some parts can be soaked and brushed up but others, like the toggle switch, or fan sheaves, are more difficult to get cleaned up.

Anybody have any tricks they would be willing to share? Dental tools? Carb cleaner? I've just about worn out a toothbrush and brass brush and haven't had much luck with some of the corrosion.

Interesting mix. You have some 10e/r parts there. The tailstock center(not a live center) is inserted in a 10ER tailstock socket. The knob is a 10e/r knob. The arbor and saw blade are also 10e/r vintage(8"?). You should look for the 'other' pin for the router insert. The second lathe tool rest may also be 10e/r vintage, but will fit the goldie arm. The lathe faceplate may be cast iron(may be 10e/r also).

The switch toggle is plated brass. Yes nooks and crannies are great for muffins, but not ss parts. Dremel tools come to mind, but I never tried em. Do not overlook tooth paste(not gel) as a cleaner.(finger rub, then brush) Some places are just too difficult to get at to be worried about(unless you be as persnickity as a certain SD resident).:D
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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ddvann79
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10er stuff?

Post by ddvann79 »

I was wondering why the knob and lathe center looked so different. Dad informed me that a friend of his had given him some extra parts that hadn't come with the Goldie. I guess this is part of that batch. The lathe center and blade arbor are in very bad condition. I'm worried that if I soak them in rust remover there may not be much left.

Yes, the lathe faceplate is cast iron. The shaft of the second tool rest is snapped off. Here's a better shot of the lathe center.

[ATTACH]11060[/ATTACH]

I appreciate thoughts on getting into those hard to reach places. Toothpaste is a new idea for me. While I'm not quite as persnickety as Mike, his 1955 Greenie is my benchmark. I'd like to get close but we shall see how long my patience holds out. :rolleyes:
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Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

ddvann79 wrote:I was wondering why the knob and lathe center looked so different. Dad informed me that a friend of his had given him some extra parts that hadn't come with the Goldie. I guess this is part of that batch. The lathe center and blade arbor are in very bad condition. I'm worried that if I soak them in rust remover there may not be much left.

Yes, the lathe faceplate is cast iron. The shaft of the second tool rest is snapped off. Here's a better shot of the lathe center.

[ATTACH]11060[/ATTACH]

I appreciate thoughts on getting into those hard to reach places. Toothpaste is a new idea for me. While I'm not quite as persnickety as Mike, his 1955 Greenie is my benchmark. I'd like to get close but we shall see how long my patience holds out. :rolleyes:
Evaposust 2 nights! Longer if needed! It will get rid of the rust and NOT attack what's left!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

ddvann79 wrote:I was .....

I appreciate thoughts on getting into those hard to reach places. Toothpaste is a new idea for me. While I'm not quite as persnickety as Mike, his 1955 Greenie is my benchmark. I'd like to get close but we shall see how long my patience holds out. :rolleyes:
Not as persnickety? Ya, right!! When anyone even thinks of a dental picks when doing a ShopSmith restoration, I'd say a good amount of persnicketiness is genetically implanted already :D.

Evaporust is going to kill all the rust. If your trying to get rid of all evidence of corrosion AFTER that, the sky is the limit for your arsenal of tools. Dremels are great to tight spots. Soft BRASS wire brushes (preferred over brass plated steel) both hand held and the ones that mount of a bench grinder save a lot of work. Shell / baking soda blasting gets into very little nook cranny if you want to take that route. Maybe you have a local place that can do that for you OR, you can visit HF and spend about $50 - 150 for blasting stuff.

What do you have that's not getting cleaned up enough? (or are you just anticipating)
Mike
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ddvann79
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Post by ddvann79 »

mickyd wrote:...
What do you have that's not getting cleaned up enough? (or are you just anticipating)
For example, the power switch is difficult to get around the toggle. The miter gauge have that curved slot in it. The sheaves are loaded with gunk and it's so far I can't get in between all the slots. The indentations on the locking handles and lettering are filled with gunk and resin in places, as are the rack teeth on the table tubes. Then there are all the pin, bolt, and screw holes that have sticky grit in them after sanding and stripping.

Some of my issues are stains more than just filth but it all sticks to the parts and has been a challenge to remove. Yesterday I found that Citrus Strip will take rust of tubes (don't worry, I have a gallon of Evaporust).

So far, my best friends have been brass brushes, tooth brush, mineral spirits, a fine wire wheel on my grinder (on its last leg), soft paint removal wheel, scratch awl, and a chip brush. But those brushes are just too wide to get into many places. Maybe I'm going overboard but this is the first time I've ever tried to make a machine not only work well but look good too.
Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
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