Table Saw

[backhertz]

I have heard from a number of people that the Shopsmith has a number of great functions, but as a table saw it leaves a lot to be desired. My question is why? Is it underpowered? I figure a new Power Pro running on 220 would be enough power. Is it the table- size & being flexible? I was just wondering what all I could do to fix up one of my Shopsmiths either a Mark V or a 10E/ER to overcome the weaknesses it supposedly has as a table saw. I do not expect perfection with every cut which is the reason I will be investing in some decent hand planes once I have my shop set up to make kitchen cabinets and some custom (fancy word for homemade) bathroom cabinetry, as well.
Thanks in advance & happy turkey day.

[hcbph]

I suspect for a number of reasons: small table, small fence, tilt table vs tilt blade just to name a few. Add to that large hole sawblades and a separate tablesaw seems more attractive, plus you don't have changeover to saw. I can only imagine how unwhieldly a sheet of plywood out be trying to rip it down on a SS.

I have a cabinet saw with outfeed table and overhead guard with dust collection, a Mark V and a bunch of other tools. I really can't imagine using a SS over the cabinet saw for ripping anything large.

Just some thoughts.

Paul

[JPG]

I suspect for a number of reasons: small table, small fence, tilt table vs tilt blade just to name a few. Add to that large hole sawblades and a separate tablesaw seems more attractive, plus you don't have changeover to saw. I can only imagine how unwhieldly a sheet of plywood out be trying to rip it down on a SS.

I have a cabinet saw with outfeed table and overhead guard with dust collection. I really can't imagine using a SS over that for sawing.

Just some thoughts.

Paul

GEE And ALL that in the space of a bicycle!:rolleyes:

Yes the TS is not its best feature, but for most of us that deal with work pieces smaller than 4x8 sheet goods it is quite adequate. The setup/teardown is minimized by basic planning. There are those of us who consider the big arbor a plus(less need for stabilizers). Actually they are more common in larger professional saws. No you do not find them where you normally shop.

I have on at least one occasion bevel ripped a 1"(yes one inch) plywood 4x8 sheet by myself and that was with my 9" Goldie. Not recommended, but tis possible.

Come to think of it, I used my 8" plywood blade!

[beeg]

Now on the other side of the coin. WHAT can ya do with a stand alone table saw? Besides the sawing function?

[robinson46176]

Heck, if I wanted to rip some full sheets of plywood I would probably use my 510 with another Mark V sitting behind it as an out-feed table, and I have a great Rigid TS-3650 tablesaw...
While I don't generally use a Mark V as a table saw full sheets are where I would be pretty quick to use one. The old 3/4 HP headstocks can be a little weak unless alignment is very good but a 1-1/8th HP headstock running on a "good" circuit and with a heavy cord will cut about anything with a sharp blade.
There is no reason to not expect quality results from a Shopsmith... I believe that 90% of the complaints I see are a result of poor set-up, dull blades and unidentified voltage drop.
On a side note I once had a light dimming problem at a former house and I knew it was wired better than that. I called the power company and they didn't want to be bothered... The next day I called and told them that the lights were flickering and that I was afraid of fire (they weren't and I was not, I had re-tightened "everything" on my side of the meter) so they finally sent a guy out. I explained everything to him and he knew where to look. Found a bad crimped connection at one line to the house. He went ahead and replaced all 6 connectors and we lived happily ever after.
In a similar note, a phone company friend once told me to never call in and say that you line is dropping your computer connection (dial up then). He said tell them that your line sounds like eggs frying (just part of the time) and you can hardly hear on it. If you say it is part time they will keep looking even if they can not hear anything. He was right...
.
Back to the SS... I have seen some guys that can turn out good work that could not do a proper set-up on a broom and dustpan.

[mickyd]

I have heard from a number of people that the Shopsmith has a number of great functions, but as a table saw it leaves a lot to be desired. My question is why? Is it underpowered? I figure a new Power Pro running on 220 would be enough power. Is it the table- size & being flexible? I was just wondering what all I could do to fix up one of my Shopsmiths either a Mark V or a 10E/ER to overcome the weaknesses it supposedly has as a table saw. I do not expect perfection with every cut which is the reason I will be investing in some decent hand planes once I have my shop set up to make kitchen cabinets and some custom (fancy word for homemade) bathroom cabinetry, as well.
Thanks in advance & happy turkey day.

It really all comes down to what the expectations are. One group will say its underpowered, undersized, not designed correctly etc. Another group will say it gets the job done just fine. Right now, in my woodworking infancy, I'm in the later group. The 5 and ER10 are an absolute blessing compared to my previous jury rigged cutting methods. I'll stick with them the way they are until they no longer meet expectations....whatever THAT might mature into.

[Ed in Tampa]

I have heard from a number of people that the Shopsmith has a number of great functions, but as a table saw it leaves a lot to be desired. My question is why? Is it underpowered? I figure a new Power Pro running on 220 would be enough power. Is it the table- size & being flexible? I was just wondering what all I could do to fix up one of my Shopsmiths either a Mark V or a 10E/ER to overcome the weaknesses it supposedly has as a table saw. I do not expect perfection with every cut which is the reason I will be investing in some decent hand planes once I have my shop set up to make kitchen cabinets and some custom (fancy word for homemade) bathroom cabinetry, as well.
Thanks in advance & happy turkey day.

Happy Thanksgiving to you.

I think the two biggest weaknesses cited are tilting table. This one weakness if you want to call it that requires some unusual jigs to overcome.
The other thing is depth of cut adjust requires the table to be moved. This can often effect jig, overhead dust collection, infeed and outfeed tables and etc.

Other things like lack of power and large bore holes required in the blades are made by people that use poor technique, don't have a clue and or don't understand how to finesse woodworking.

My biggest complaint is I like using table saws which are almost like an in the shop aircraft carrier to support things like router table, down draft sanding table and etc. All of these can be done on the SS but require they be removed should a depth of cut adjustment or a bevel cut be made.

And say what you may the aluminum table is nice but a nice stout cast iron table is something that just sort of fits in the shop. Notice the rather cool reception granite table top saws are receiving.

My opinion. The SS is capable as any other tablesaw but for ease of use a table saw is just that a TABLE saw.

[ddvann79]

If you have a 520, here's Nick Engler's solution for an out feed table that tilts, raises, and lowers with the table. It's Sawdust Session number 20. I'm sure it could be modified to work on a 500. Personally, I can't say I would go to all that trouble but I've seen some pretty elaborate out feed rigs.

[ATTACH]11005[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]11006[/ATTACH]

Let's be honest, if the table saw operation was perfect on the 500, SS wouldn't have upgraded the tables as much as they have. If you already have a cabinet saw, I don't see much point in using the SS table saw on a regular basis. But if you are like a lot of us and have a shop the size of a closet...

So I think backhertz has a great question. If you don't have room or cash for a separate saw and want to get the most out of your SS, what will enable you to do that? For those of you who have done it, wouldn't you say if you want to get the most out of the TS, upgrading is the best choice? Farmer has an interesting point about voltage drop, especially if your shop is a fair piece from the house, or you have too much running on one circuit. Regardless of the tool, proper alignment will maximize its utility. Also, good jigs make for a pleasurable experience, despite initial construction time. I think a crosscut sled falls in that category.

[JPG]

Let us know when you figger out how to attach that humongous thing to a '500' table!;)

[SDSSmith]

[quote="JPG40504"]Let us know when you figger out how to attach that humongous thing to a '500' table!]As I recall that humongous thing was just a modified (cross miter slot) support table. I don't know if Shopsmith just sells the hardware for the 500 table, but they do sell the hardware to convert it to the 520. I have never ponied up the $42 to convert my 510 version. Instead, I installed spacer blocks and it works fine with my 520. Anyway, here is the link to the table on SS's site: http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/swd_supporttable.htm