Knee switch for safety
Moderator: admin
Knee switch for safety
I use knee switches on all of my stationary tools that I can adapt to the machine so I thought why not on the SS? This method also makes it much easier to remove the motor pan, just remove the drive belt from the motor and drop the whole thing just by removing 5 screws. No more scraped up hand from trying to reach through that ridiculous little hole under the nameplate.
Sorry the picture didn't make the trip. I guess I don't have it figured out yet.
Sorry the picture didn't make the trip. I guess I don't have it figured out yet.
Picture
I think I figured out the attachment thingy. I also cut off the webs beside the old switch hole and screwed on a metal tag from elswhere on the machine to cover the hole.
- Attachments
-
- Resize of shopsmith B .jpg (55.36 KiB) Viewed 3037 times
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1237
- Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:10 pm
===========================
DT aka Agent Orange is a POS
Liar Liar his wonky comb over is on fire
DT aka Agent Orange is a POS
Liar Liar his wonky comb over is on fire
- Attachments
-
- IMGP0181.JPG (131.36 KiB) Viewed 3244 times
Last edited by judaspre1982 on Mon Jun 05, 2017 12:15 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Knee switch
Yes I ground the ribs away with a die grinder. I buy the Switches at http://www.busybeetools.com and they ship to the U.S.
judaspre1982 wrote:I like the idea of a knee switch.
I also moved the switch on my Greenie to the motor pan.[ATTACH]11183[/ATTACH]
I find it easier to see when performing some sawing operations along with making it easier to drop the motor pan as you said.
Did you cut away the area around the old switch location to get the plate mounted flush?
Dave
PS--where did you get the knee switch?
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1237
- Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:10 pm
======================
Last edited by judaspre1982 on Thu May 11, 2017 12:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Great link. Looks like they might have the proper replacement switches for the standard safety switch on the newer Mark Vs as well. Very cool.bestdust wrote:Yes I ground the ribs away with a die grinder. I buy the Switches at http://www.busybeetools.com and they ship to the U.S.
I like the placement of the switch down below as well. Easier to find, plus it will make dropping the motor that much easier since all the wiring is now only in the motor pan.
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup
JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw
-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw
-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
Hi sorry I didn't get back sooner, I cooked the power supply in my computer. The electrical box that I used had four little ribs on the back, one on each corner which made it fit the curve perfectly. One thing about theses switches is they are not a standard size so I had to grind the inside a wee bit to make it fit.