Bonus check burning a hole in my pocket.

hoagie · Post by **hoagie** » Wed Dec 15, 2010 6:11 pm

Just happened to punch in "Ringmaster" on eBay and found a never used, still in the box, complete unit for about $100 off what PNI is asking for it. Should arrive in time for set up and initial testing this weekend. Just in time to create a few more gifts.

I had been eying these for some time.

So, for those of you with Ringmasters any tips for a newby? I've already started watching the videos from Nick and Drew. Looks like they cover a lot of the basics and also throw in a lot of tricks they learned. Also downloaded their Excel spreadsheet for calculating ring spacing. Anything else I should know?

Thanks in advance.

jayhawk · Post by **jayhawk** » Thu Dec 16, 2010 1:55 pm

Just in case you don't get the manual with the Ringmaster:

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/prod ... ING730.pdf

Mine didn't come with an arbor so I use my 1/2" shaper arbor to hold the blank.

The clamping jig was easy to build. I used a Formica counter-top sink cutout for the base and used a 8" long, 3/8" carriage bolt topped with a washer and nut. Works great!

hoagie · Post by **hoagie** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 12:58 pm

Thanks for the link Jayhawk. I had found that once before, but of course, now that I need it I couldn't find it.

I had read where several others have used sink cutouts for the clamping system. I assume this is because any excess glue would be easier to clean off? And the thickness would improve stability when clamping?
Wouldn't you know I just threw out a cutout that had spent the past year moving around the garage? I'll have to make do with a piece of plywood for the clamp base for the time being.

Thanks again.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 1:06 pm

hoagie wrote:Thanks for the link Jayhawk. I had found that once before, but of course, now that I need it I couldn't find it.

I had read where several others have used sink cutouts for the clamping system. I assume this is because any excess glue would be easier to clean off? And the thickness would improve stability when clamping?
Wouldn't you know I just threw out a cutout that had spent the past year moving around the garage? I'll have to make do with a piece of plywood for the clamp base for the time being.

Thanks again.

Live and learn!:D

I never leave HD without checking the cull bin!

curtis george · Post by **curtis george** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 6:57 am

I own a ring master. my only advice is to slow down the turning speed. I use the speed reducer to do that. I find the best speed for my machine is some ware around 200 rpm.

I also use the 12" disk sander in the up right possison (standing like a drill press mode, but haveing the sander on the back side of the SS, so the sanding disk is face up, as you look at it.) This way you can easly sand the disks faces very easly.

"O" one more tip. mark the face of your boards before you start, this way you have a much easer way to aline your wood grain before glue up.

good luck on your project.
the Ring master is a fun tool to use.

C.A.G.

hoagie · Post by **hoagie** » Tue Dec 21, 2010 11:49 am

Thanks for all the tips. The Ringmaster showed up yesterday everything intact. This was originally sold by Shopsmith when they were still carrying the Ringmaster. It looks to have never been used; the screws, Allen wrenches, etc. were all still in a plastic bag and the protective paper was still on the chip shield. It's old; the owner's manual and project workbook are starting to yellow.

I have a speed reducer so I can slow down to the 200RPM as suggested. This is a ways below the 700RPM stated in the manual. Were you experiencing burning or chip out at higher speeds?