510 Fence sticking

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wildcard
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510 Fence sticking

Post by wildcard »

When i am trying to do very small adjustments with the fence it has a tendency to stick a bit, it usually does it on the end with the screw clamp, and it does it with the clamp open all the way, it does it on the main table as well as the extensions, does anyone have a suggestion, i am thinking this is a cleaning issue, but it might be a basic 510 issue
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

wildcard wrote:When i am trying to do very small adjustments with the fence it has a tendency to stick a bit, it usually does it on the end with the screw clamp, and it does it with the clamp open all the way, it does it on the main table as well as the extensions, does anyone have a suggestion, i am thinking this is a cleaning issue, but it might be a basic 510 issue
Waxed lately?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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wa2crk
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Post by wa2crk »

Check for any burrs on the fence where it contacts the front rails and might cause it to hang up. Also check the finish on the rails themselves for contamination or burrs. Waxing mentioned in the previous post is probably very needed.
Bill V
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john
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Post by john »

I have the same problem, and burrs/scratches on the rails are the issue. I have tried to sand them down, but still encounter resistance so it will be back to work someday.:(

Waxing does not seem to help with burrs still in place.

Good luck.

John
judaspre1982
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Post by judaspre1982 »

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Last edited by judaspre1982 on Thu May 11, 2017 12:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I find this discussion somewhat amusing.

Waxing will never overcome a burr problem(neither will oil or other lubrication).

A burr creates an 'interference' of adjoining parts and that guarantees non-smooth motion(especially small increments in the immediate area of the burrs).

Removal of the burrs is a pre-requisite to smooth operation.

A fine file is the best tool for removal(assuming access is possible).

Emery cloth(abrasive cloth backed sandpaper) is a second choice for areas not accessible with a file.

Once the 'high' spots are tamed so it moves smoothly 'dry', then waxing will help it move more easily.

FWIW: Oxidation is just a different word for extremely small burrs!;)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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