Bandsaw Fence Questions and Opinions

horologist · Post by **horologist** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 9:49 am

Ron,
Just to add a little more confusion... I have the Kreg bandsaw fence, when combined with a Wood Slicer blade my bandsaw is the ultimate precision resawing machine.

Troy

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 1:36 pm

I use my 500 fence on my aluminum table bandsaw.

It does only clamp at the front, so it will flex/bow/move under side thrust. This is normally not a problem with bandsaw use.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 1:56 pm

foxtrapper wrote:I use my 500 fence on my aluminum table bandsaw.

It does only clamp at the front, so it will flex/bow/move under side thrust. This is normally not a problem with bandsaw use.

Why then is one being used?

FWIW A block of scrap wood clamped to the table will prevent the loose end from moving.

FWIW2 The original bandsaw fence also only clamped to the outfeed side.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 3:50 pm

I sold the cast iron table bandsaws that I had and kept the aluminum table one. I like it but I do kind of miss the cross slot for using the miter gauge as a fence.
It is the best bandsaw I ever owned. I don't know if it is that good or the others I owned early on were just that bad.

A couple were antiques and one I bought at an auction should have gone straight from the factory loading dock to a crusher...

keakap · Post by **keakap** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 2:50 am

horologist wrote:Ron,
Just to add a little more confusion... I have the Kreg bandsaw fence, when combined with a Wood Slicer blade my bandsaw is the ultimate precision resawing machine.
Troy

I'll second that!
The last stuff I ran thru there, I had to mark it so I'd know which surface was cut on the BS (on A band saw).

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 8:19 am

JPG40504 wrote:Why then is one being used?

I don't understand the question.

The 500 fence works fine on the bandsaw, clamping only at the front. If you push against it, it will deflect a bit. The deflection is progressive as you work your way along the fence further from the anchor point at the front.

When sawing, you're just using it as a guide, so there isn't any appreciable force against the fence to deflect it.

I agree a clamped board works just fine. That's what I use on another bandsaw. Two spring clamps and a nice straight piece of wood.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 2:03 pm

foxtrapper wrote:I don't understand the question.

The 500 fence works fine on the bandsaw, clamping only at the front. If you push against it, it will deflect a bit. The deflection is progressive as you work your way along the fence further from the anchor point at the front.

When sawing, you're just using it as a guide, so there isn't any appreciable force against the fence to deflect it.

I agree a clamped board works just fine. That's what I use on another bandsaw. Two spring clamps and a nice straight piece of wood.

"It does only clamp at the front, so it will flex/bow/move under side thrust. This is normally not a problem with bandsaw use."

My question was relevant to 'quote' above.

My point was, If flex/bow/move is 'not a problem' how is the fence doing its 'normal function'(preventing the workpiece from moving sideways relative to the blade)[tis enough tolerating the blade drift!].

I agree that the max problem is at the unsecured end and much less near the blade. However since it will move, securing it by clamping a 'stop' block will prevent it. If the side force is minimized(near zero) I would concur the stop block would be unnecessary.

Just a matter of 'degree' it appears!:)