Square adjustment

swampgator · Post by **swampgator** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 11:37 pm

I have read on other forums that you can adjust a framing square. The method described to put the short edge alongside a straight edge of wood or laminated mdf. Draw a line with a pencil and then flip the square so that the edge alongside the straight edge is still on the straight edge. Again, draw a pencil line to see how closely it aligns with the first line. If the line separates toward the fartherest end of the line, then you would use a punch to indent the inside of the L. If the lines come closer together away from the straight edge, use the punch to stretch the metal on the outside of the L.

I have tried this on two separate squares with absolutely no luck. Just curious if anyone else has been successful with this. Thanks for your comments.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 12:15 am

swampgator wrote:I have read on other forums that you can adjust a framing square. The method described to put the short edge alongside a straight edge of wood or laminated mdf. Draw a line with a pencil and then flip the square so that the edge alongside the straight edge is still on the straight edge. Again, draw a pencil line to see how closely it aligns with the first line. If the line separates toward the fartherest end of the line, then you would use a punch to indent the inside of the L. If the lines come closer together away from the straight edge, use the punch to stretch the metal on the outside of the L.

I have tried this on two separate squares with absolutely no luck. Just curious if anyone else has been successful with this. Thanks for your comments.

Methinks this is doomed unless the metal is very soft(in which case it will not stay square very long).

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 5:23 am

I have those instructions. They came with an aluminum framing square built by Stanley. I have never had need to use them. I have what appears to be an identical framing square except that it is made of steel. At least twice as heavy. I'd bet that punching the steel one would have "no effect".

swampgator · Post by **swampgator** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 12:32 pm

JPG, you are reading my mind. How can something withstand a drop or bumping if it can be so easily adjusted. Maybe, heating the elbow (sic) may produce better results.

horologist · Post by **horologist** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 1:21 pm

I have never tried this on a square and strongly discourage it on clocks. Some people like to use a center punch to compensate for wear allowing the “repair” of a clock without disassembly.

The center punch is intended to displace the metal, pivoting the blades of the square slightly and hopefully to 90 degrees. A center punch creates quite a local disturbance, raising nice ridges but gives little in the way of lateral movement. You would need to make a lot of dimples to get any appreciable movement. A much better approach would be the round end of a ball pein hammer and an anvil. heating the metal first would help as well.

If you really need an accurate framing square I think a better approach would be some sort of sled and the conical disc sander to grind the edges. Or if you have a local machine shop this can be done on a mill.

Troy

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 1:39 pm

The unasked question is: For framing, how square does it need to be?:rolleyes:

If you need a more accurate square, chose something other than a framing square.

A 6'(or longer?) drywall square???:D Trouble is only one 'leg' is long. Then there is pythagoras(47th proposition of Euclid to some folks). Think 345!

dlbristol · Post by **dlbristol** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:11 pm

I know an old guy who swears he can do this! I have an old framing square that my dad used, and it has all kinds of "dings" in the corner. And it is nowhere near square enough to use for anything other than rough barn work.

He took it and made it change, but I can't see it is any better. This square is old, but it is also soft material. It was not well cared for, was rusty and needed lots of work to get it usable even for the rough work. Mostly it just hangs out in the shop and reminds me of my dad and his penchant for " cobbeling". My dad would be laughing at me now as I look for some quality set up squares and a Starrett square costing $50 plus.

kalynzoo · Post by **kalynzoo** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:19 pm

I know how Dlbristol feels, I have a box of my Dad's and Grandfather's old tools that I take out and oil and dust every few years. The brace-and-bit is in good shape, and I like to take it to my daughter's school once or twice a year when I do a woodworking project with her students, just to show them how things used to be produced.
Happy New Year to you and yours.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 3:13 pm

kalynzoo wrote:I know how Dlbristol feels, I have a box of my Dad's and Grandfather's old tools that I take out and oil and dust every few years. The brace-and-bit is in good shape, and I like to take it to my daughter's school once or twice a year when I do a woodworking project with her students, just to show them how things used to be produced.
Happy New Year to you and yours.

They made very clean holes even in soft wood(when sharp!).[still do!]