New Guy w/ hopefully a simple issue
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jjwoodshop
- Gold Member
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2011 11:46 pm
- Location: Matthews, NC
New Guy w/ hopefully a simple issue
I just did my check in on the community page. Wanted to check in here with all the pros for some big help!!
SO I just got my first SS Mark V home this evening and started cleaning it up and working on the various set-ups. This thing has sat in a garage for about three years I think. And was primarily used for the table saw feature. Everything works great, speed control, power switch, all adjustments are smooth, etc.
But.....when I went to remove the TS blade it was not happening. Not budge. WD-40, nothing. Finally resorted to a block of wood and some lighting tapping to the wood on the arbor with a rubber mallet. After a little "mallet manipulation" while turning the quill as not to stress one side the arbor came off. So the blade was free!
Then I went to slide on the other arbors, just to check (the unit came with 3) and no go....to tight. Tried the sanding disk, would not slide.... Then the lathe center....nope. Not happening. I will say one of the arbors did actually slide on a little.
So what gives? It doesnt seem like the quill is damaged. Is the whole thing just really dusty/dirty? The quill still was oilly....but maybe to old and broken down?
Please dont tell me I got a dud!! What can I do? Suggestions?
I am ready to start rendering wood into dust!!!
Thanks a lot in advance....
JJ
SO I just got my first SS Mark V home this evening and started cleaning it up and working on the various set-ups. This thing has sat in a garage for about three years I think. And was primarily used for the table saw feature. Everything works great, speed control, power switch, all adjustments are smooth, etc.
But.....when I went to remove the TS blade it was not happening. Not budge. WD-40, nothing. Finally resorted to a block of wood and some lighting tapping to the wood on the arbor with a rubber mallet. After a little "mallet manipulation" while turning the quill as not to stress one side the arbor came off. So the blade was free!
Then I went to slide on the other arbors, just to check (the unit came with 3) and no go....to tight. Tried the sanding disk, would not slide.... Then the lathe center....nope. Not happening. I will say one of the arbors did actually slide on a little.
So what gives? It doesnt seem like the quill is damaged. Is the whole thing just really dusty/dirty? The quill still was oilly....but maybe to old and broken down?
Please dont tell me I got a dud!! What can I do? Suggestions?
I am ready to start rendering wood into dust!!!
Thanks a lot in advance....
JJ
Those arbors fit TIGHT, so just about any amount of rust or dirt on the shaft or in the arbor bore could cause problems. Hope ya cleaned it up and lube it. May want to go through all the alignments since ya carted it home. WELCOME to the SS forum and ask away on ANY question ya have about it. Which model do ya have?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Fear not, you do not have a dud. These machines are made to last but they do demand some TLC. I suggest you start out by pulling the plug and doing a thorough cleaning.
DO NOT change the position of the speed control. The drive shaft must be rotating when ever a speed change is made else damage is done on the interior.
With all the dust, dirt and grim removed, you can sit down and watch the Sawdust Sessions; especially the last four. Having done that, you will be making sawdust in no time.
Welcome aboard. The forum is usually a very friendly place to dwell but like any family there are times.
DO NOT change the position of the speed control. The drive shaft must be rotating when ever a speed change is made else damage is done on the interior.
With all the dust, dirt and grim removed, you can sit down and watch the Sawdust Sessions; especially the last four. Having done that, you will be making sawdust in no time.
Welcome aboard. The forum is usually a very friendly place to dwell but like any family there are times.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Did you try to clean the inside of the arbors and lathe centers with mineral spirits using a brass bottle brush? Because of the very tight fit a small amount of crud inside those can cause you to not be able to slip them on the quill. Make sure to use a brass or a stiff nylon brush and not steel. Lastly, don't oil them, but use johnson's paste wax for lubrication.
If you still can't slide the parts on after a thorough cleaning, then you would want to check the quill and arbors for tiny burrs that may be blocking the arbors from mounting.
One last thought. If the previous owner did not clean the machine oil that coats a brand new shopsmith for shipping, then that could be the cause of your arbor sticking issues. So if you have the manuals, then you should go to the "unpacking your shopsmith" and initial setup sections and do all those steps in order (that apply of course). Especially the cleaning section
, but don't skimp on the set-up and alignment.
So, as Dusty said, you don't have a dud. Welcome to the group. Happy New Year!!!
Stay safe everyone
If you still can't slide the parts on after a thorough cleaning, then you would want to check the quill and arbors for tiny burrs that may be blocking the arbors from mounting.
One last thought. If the previous owner did not clean the machine oil that coats a brand new shopsmith for shipping, then that could be the cause of your arbor sticking issues. So if you have the manuals, then you should go to the "unpacking your shopsmith" and initial setup sections and do all those steps in order (that apply of course). Especially the cleaning section
So, as Dusty said, you don't have a dud. Welcome to the group. Happy New Year!!!
Stay safe everyone
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jjwoodshop
- Gold Member
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2011 11:46 pm
- Location: Matthews, NC
Wow guys! tahnks for the insight and assistance! Dasgu, thanks for getting specific! I am looking forward to getting home today (going to kick out early from the office to get home to my "new" machine!) and getting my clean and lube on!
With the brass brush and johnsons paste idea, this alos gives me the excuse to head to our historic 100+ yr old hardware store in town. I love that place! And they have a whole room in the back just with "old-fashioned" cleaning agents, paste waxs, etc.
Really looking forward to embarking on this great adventure, my lovely bride has already selected three projects for me (for her, haha) out of my latest woodworking book.
With the brass brush and johnsons paste idea, this alos gives me the excuse to head to our historic 100+ yr old hardware store in town. I love that place! And they have a whole room in the back just with "old-fashioned" cleaning agents, paste waxs, etc.
Really looking forward to embarking on this great adventure, my lovely bride has already selected three projects for me (for her, haha) out of my latest woodworking book.
"If you're not prepared to be wrong, you will never come up with anything original" -Sir Ken Robinson
I've had a similar problem. On one of my machines in the U.P. I had difficulty taking a saw blade off the shaft, and nothing else seemed to go on either. The problem was a very slight burr on the edge of the tapered flat, probably caused by a set screw that had loosened while the Shopsmith was running. A fine toothed file removed the burr and fixed the problem.
Look closely, it doesn't take much of a burr to keep the tight tolerance arbors from fitting on the shaft. I'm surprised that this problem hasn't come up more often.
Look closely, it doesn't take much of a burr to keep the tight tolerance arbors from fitting on the shaft. I'm surprised that this problem hasn't come up more often.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Kerosene? Smells like shoe polish to me(carnuba wax?)(naptha?). Kerosene never smells that good!:eek:wa2crk wrote:JJ
Johnsons Original Paste wax in the red and yellow can. It will smell like kerosene when you open it. DO NOT use automotive wax.
Bill V
UPC code 46500 00202 - yellow can with diagonal red stripe. Make sure it is the original formula. Newer formula has been altered to reduce 'slickness'. Ok if waxing floors, but slick be good for our purpose.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange