headstock rebuild

[JPG]

That's my problem, the unit came with two rear covers. The whole thing is gray, except the spare rear cover that is green and a tube end that is green. Im guessing he picked these up somewhere and handed them off to me when I bought it.

Next step: Sessions 21 thru 24 to start.

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Sawdust_Sessions.htm

Glad we got that 'green' issue cleared up!:D

BTW - To start a new thread, from the 'shopsmith' home menu, click on maintenance and repair, then up towards the left side click on "new thread"

[invaderjim]

Thanks for the heads up. Silly me, looking for options in tabs and menus. Hopefully I will get my rolling cart finished for my SS and then get to work on everything I can think of.

[nsmith01tx]

[ATTACH]9526[/ATTACH]

I'm resurrecting this thread because my GE motor has exactly the same issue. What particularly concerns me is that the insulation is brittle and cracking all the way down to where it ties into the windings.

Is that a DIY job or should I drop it off at the electrical shop? I don't want to take a chance on screwing up the motor.

[JPG]

I'm resurrecting this thread because my GE motor has exactly the same issue. What particularly concerns me is that the insulation is brittle and cracking all the way down to where it ties into the windings.

Is that a DIY job or should I drop it off at the electrical shop? I don't want to take a chance on screwing up the motor.

The question is, do you have a soldering iron and know how to use it. Alternatively, crimpers and insulated splices. Or shrink tubing.

[billmayo]

I'm resurrecting this thread because my GE motor has exactly the same issue. What particularly concerns me is that the insulation is brittle and cracking all the way down to where it ties into the windings.

Is that a DIY job or should I drop it off at the electrical shop? I don't want to take a chance on screwing up the motor.

I find all the GE motors has broken down insulation power wires inside the motor. I install a new 18" long 2 wire power cord on these motors. If you are real careful, you can use a Closed End Connector or Butt Connector (http://www.delcity.net/store/) to connect the old wire ends to the new wires. I have used Liquid Tape to insulate the old wire going into the coil but prefer insulating varnish. I normally have to cut one or two of the coil tie wraps to remove the old broken insulated wire up to where it connects to the coil winding wire (I remove the metal clamp that is used to connect the old wire to the coil winding wire). The coil winding wire has insulation varnish on it so this varnish must be removed/scraped if you are connecting a new wire to the coil winding wire.

I normally convert these GE motors to be reversible since I have to remove the power wires anyway and have the start and power coil winding wire ends available at this time. Contact me for additional information. Thanks.

[wa2crk]

When I repaired my motor I stripped the insulation (carefully) from the motor winding and then cut the pigtail about one inch from the the motor winding leaving one inch of the stranded wire from the original pigtail. Then I attached the new stranded wire by wrapping the new wire around the old being careful not to leave any raised wire ends that might poke through the new insulation. I soldered the new wires to the old and covered the splice with shrink wrap. Then I replaced the cord that held the original wiring in place with waxed string that I had on hand. I think that the insulating varnish (formvar) can still purchased at Radio Shack. Don't use regular varnish because it gets brittle but the Formvar remains flexible.
Bill V

[nsmith01tx]

Thanks - I picked up a 2ft piece of 2-strand 14-2 this afternoon and will give it a shot. I have some electronic background (rusty) but I tend to learn by experience - and some of those lessons have turned out to be "never do that without the proper tools and training" ... an expensive lesson. Glad to hear this is doable.

Thanks,
Nathan

[billmayo]

Once more question: it sounds like you guys usually cut & strip the existing wire close to the winding and solder to that - is that right? I'm a little antsy about cutting the binding around that coil and digging into it.

Thanks,
Nathan

Yes, that works. I twist the old and new wire together length wise and solder them. Just make sure the shrink tubing covers any of the remaining old bare wire. I always check the ohms between the motor wires and the motor casing after changing the motor wires. There should be no ohm reading (infinity, open).