1962 Goldie Disassembly

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ddvann79
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Post by ddvann79 »

nuhobby wrote:Hi, progress looking good!

BTW, a lesser-known fact is that your Quill bearing (6202Z with 5/8 ID) is available from Shopsmith for only $4.99:
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/item ... =Find+Item

Regarding that too-long screw, perhaps you've used a longer screw that is meant for attaching the centrifugal switch (?).
That's a great deal on the quill bearing. Didn't I read somewhere that the tolerances on the front 2-bearing quill were different from the single-bearing?

Yeah, that's exactly what that long screw is for. After digging around in the pan with the motor parts in it, I found the other screw that was hiding from me. The motor's all back together now. :rolleyes: All that time just because I used the wrong screw. Here's what it is supposed to look like.

[ATTACH]11421[/ATTACH]
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Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
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nuhobby
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Post by nuhobby »

ddvann79 wrote:That's a great deal on the quill bearing. Didn't I read somewhere that the tolerances on the front 2-bearing quill were different from the single-bearing?
There are differences; the part-numbers aren't easy to come by.

Single-bearing quills all use 202KDD5 = 6202ZZ_with_5/8_bore = 502962. At $4.99, the Shopsmith bearing is usually an overseas part, not a Fafnir part.

The latest double-bearing quills have 6203-series bearings in both locations. I don't know the Shopsmith p/n's, but likely much numerically higher than 502xxx.

Bill Mayo may know some other sources for the single-bearing quill; he has experimented extensively.

Sounds like you'll be whirring that motor presently!
Chris
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Guess what the "5" in 'Fafnir 202KDD5' means or the "10" in 6202-10-2RS found elsewhere! A 'normal' 202/6202 is 15mm id. The quill shaft is 5/8" = 0.625" = 15.875mm. I hope you did not booger the quill shaft forcing it on! 15mm is about .035" smaller.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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ddvann79
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Post by ddvann79 »

JPG40504 wrote:Guess what the "5" in 'Fafnir 202KDD5' means or the "10" in 6202-10-2RS found elsewhere! A 'normal' 202/6202 is 15mm id. The quill shaft is 5/8" = 0.625" = 15.875mm. I hope you did not booger the quill shaft forcing it on! 15mm is about .035" smaller.
Nope, motor shaft is fine. My 'press' is pretty tame.

Thanks for the info, Nuhobby. I wasn't sure if that bearing was for the single bearing quill or not. I haven't been able to navigate to that part number on the website so didn't have any info on it. I really appreciate the heads-up.

The motor has been powered up and hummed to life without any discernible problems. I still need to add a new power cord. We'll have to see how it performs once under a load.
Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

ddvann79 wrote:Nope, motor shaft is fine. My 'press' is pretty tame.

Thanks for the info, Nuhobby. I wasn't sure if that bearing was for the single bearing quill or not. I haven't been able to navigate to that part number on the website so didn't have any info on it. I really appreciate the heads-up.

The motor has been powered up and hummed to life without any discernible problems. I still need to add a new power cord. We'll have to see how it performs once under a load.

When did this conversation go from the quill to the motor????? My previous post you quoted was referring to the quill!!!!!
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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ddvann79
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Post by ddvann79 »

JPG40504 wrote:When did this conversation go from the quill to the motor????? My previous post you quoted was referring to the quill!!!!!
Both have bearings, my friend, and that's what I've been working on lately.

Thanks nuhobby for the link on the quill bearing. The shielded quill bearing arrived and I was shocked that it slipped onto the shaft by hand and the quill went into the housing by hand. Seems a bit lose to me. Should it be?

I've also been working on the tubes. I decided to go the Evaporust route. To cut down on the volume of fluid used, I purchased a 5-foot length of PVC, capped one end and use a cheap pressure cap in the other. It took one tube four days of soaking before I took it out. I believe this 20-degree weather we've been having in North Texas has kept the Evaporust working as quickly as it would at warmer temps. So for the last two days I brought it inside and stored it in a closet (after convincing the wife it was safe). Here are my early results.

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This is the smaller PVC reservoir I used on smaller long pieces such as in the carriage.
[ATTACH]11484[/ATTACH]

This is what the coil spring inside the quill feed looked like after evaporust. I'm not sure how it came to be this bent but after some coercion, I think it's ready to be put back into service.
[ATTACH]11483[/ATTACH]

Thanks to JPG for posting his assembly instructions. I printed out copies of all and am using them in the shop. Makes life a lot easier than trying to go off the pictures I took when disassembling.
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Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
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nuhobby
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Post by nuhobby »

ddvann79 wrote: Thanks nuhobby for the link on the quill bearing. The shielded quill bearing arrived and I was shocked that it slipped onto the shaft by hand and the quill went into the housing by hand. Seems a bit lose to me. Should it be?
Tolerances vary just a tad over different suppliers. I think I had the same experience as you one time. Bill Mayo has mentioned in such a case he'll use a couple drops of Loctite to make sure the bearing doesn't spin with respect to the quill housing or the shaft.

Great progress, keep us posted!
Chris
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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

nuhobby wrote:Tolerances vary just a tad over different suppliers. I think I had the same experience as you one time. Bill Mayo has mentioned in such a case he'll use a couple drops of Loctite to make sure the bearing doesn't spin with respect to the quill housing or the shaft.

Great progress, keep us posted!
YES, I am a firm believer in using LocTite, Zoom Spout Turbine Oil and Kroil. I use these products when repairing and rebuilding Shopsmith equipment.

Red LocTite (271) permament is for bearings and set screws that that are normally not removed once tighten. I use blue LocTite (242) semi-permament for bolts, screws and set screws that may need to be loosen and/or removed. If the bearing ID or OD has more than a max of .002 clearance, then I use shim stock and Red LocTite to secure the bearing or replace the part/item the bearing fits into.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

You are headed in the right direction. By the time you finish the tear down and cleanup you will probable have resolved most of your problems. Grease, grim and rust are not friendly co-inhabitants in your Mark 5.

I suggest you plan on some bearing replacements though but only after a thorough check up.

Clean it up, put it back together and then do a diagnostic UNLESS you discover OBVIOUS parts problems.

Bill Mayo would probably disagree with me but Bill has replacement parts at his finger tips and you don't.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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ddvann79
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Porkchop Repair

Post by ddvann79 »

Based on some ideas from Bill Mayo, I decided to see if I could improve upon the alignment method for the pork chop in the speed changer. It came from the factory with a roll pin and there was some play between the ears. The worm screw was wearing the rack teeth on one side. I ran down to my local tractor supply and they didn't have any nylocks or star washers in stock so I grabbed a few lock washers and standard #8 carriage bolt and nut. Here's what I did.

EDIT: Don't do what I did. The ears on this speed changer were bent and I just didn't know it wasn't supposed to be like that. The lock washer on the inside of one side of the bolt is a bad idea and throws the alignment off. The ears should be straightened and thin washers used.

The lock washer is pretty wide so I could only fit one in between the pork chop and the ears. In this photo it looks like the ears splay out. I don't know if that was from the factory or not.
[ATTACH]11501[/ATTACH]

I know it looks horribly skewed but it actually centers the worm over the quadrant gear.
[ATTACH]11502[/ATTACH]

I used a standard hex nut and used a method that SS used to employ to keep the trunnion stud nut in place; a couple of indents with a center punch around the ID of the nut. I was careful not to tighten the nut too much to prevent squeezing the ears around the pork chop.
[ATTACH]11503[/ATTACH]

After this rather ugly repair, I wash shocked at how smoothly the screw turned on the gear. Before, it was all I could do to back the worm screw off. Now, I can easily spin the shaft from the speedial side with no binding whatsoever. We'll see if this approach works once up and running! I am concerned that as the lock washer turns over time it will dig into the softer aluminum of the quadrant or ears. Also, I'm a bit concerned as to how this will line up with the control sheave but I believe there is enough play in the clip.

Incidentally, I don't think I would try this offset method with most speed controllers since they are probably better centered than this one was. My quadrant gear was very worn to one side. This is what I would envision with star washers, in most cases.
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Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
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