New User with an '82 vintage (I think) V Model 500

[whit]

Hey folks. Just joined up a few days ago. I inherited my Dad's Shopsmith about 15 months ago and was thinking about selling it. I've decided instead to keep it and put it back to work in the shop. It was probably unused for the past 5 years or so. Perhaps occasionally but definitely not like it originally was.

There are two problems . . . at least that I've seen so far - aside from the cleaning, lubing, and waxing that's needed after 5 years of inactivity. The belts have taken a set. As nearly as I can tell from the research I've done, that shouldn't be hard to fix. I think it's the poly V belt that has the problem and I figure if I have to take it that far, I might as well replace them both.

The other problem, I'm not so sure. The spindle knob on the outboard end of the quill appears to be pretty well seized. The set screw will come loose but the knob won't turn loose of the shaft. I was thinking of trying the heat trick but I'm a bit concerned with the transfer of the heat to the bearings on the quill. I understand the bearings are sealed and I don't want to turn it from a bearing that IS sealed to one that WAS sealed.

Any suggestions?

Whit

[JPG]

Hey folks. Just joined up a few days ago. I inherited my Dad's Shopsmith about 15 months ago and was thinking about selling it. I've decided instead to keep it and put it back to work in the shop. It was probably unused for the past 5 years or so. Perhaps occasionally but definitely not like it originally was.

There are two problems . . . at least that I've seen so far - aside from the cleaning, lubing, and waxing that's needed after 5 years of inactivity. The belts have taken a set. As nearly as I can tell from the research I've done, that shouldn't be hard to fix. I think it's the poly V belt that has the problem and I figure if I have to take it that far, I might as well replace them both.

The other problem, I'm not so sure. The spindle knob on the outboard end of the quill appears to be pretty well seized. The set screw will come loose but the knob won't turn loose of the shaft. I was thinking of trying the heat trick but I'm a bit concerned with the transfer of the heat to the bearings on the quill. I understand the bearings are sealed and I don't want to turn it from a bearing that IS sealed to one that WAS sealed.

Any suggestions?

Whit

Look down into that hole the set screw came out of and try to see if there is a burr that is interfering. Will the knob turn at all? It really should not be turned IF there IS a burr(that scores the aluminum knob and makes removal more difficult).

In any event, any burr if not accessible through the set screw hole will have to be tolerated(fought against) until the knob is off. Then you can gently clear them both of burrs.

Straight line pull is preferable here. Get/borrow a bearing puller once started if it gets really stuck.

Wish I had a better answer! Put some anti sieze paste on the id of the knob when putting it back.(FWIW I have never felt the need to do that myself!)

BTW the 'heat trick' requires brief heating of the outside object so as to not also heat the 'inside' object and swiftly attempting removal while the 'outer' is hotter than the 'inner'!;)

[dusty]

If you have removed the set screw, I would bet that the knurled knob is secured by a bit of corrosion and oily gunk. If you can any sort of a pry bar (screw driver) between the knob and the headstock - some gentle persuasion may work. Persuasion is the key word here. Do not use a lot of force.

Yes, a bearing puller would be the right tool. You do have one, right!:rolleyes:

Incidentally, unless you are going to dismantle the quill, there is nothing to be gained by taking the knurled knob off - other than to have taken it off and cleaned it up so that it is easy to put back on.

[whit]

I think I'll leave the hub in place until I have a reason to remove it. Thanks for the follow-up, folks.

whit

[whit]

I tried to free the hub tonight and got nowhere. I don't see any issues with the shaft. The set screw came out cleanly and the surface of the shaft that I can see is clean with no burrs. I'm thinking leave well enough alone. It's probably going to annoy the daylights out of me but . . . I'll have to learn to live with it.

Thanks, again.

Whit

I'm sure I'll be back with more silly questions.

[JPG]

I tried to free the hub tonight and got nowhere. I don't see any issues with the shaft. The set screw came out cleanly and the surface of the shaft that I can see is clean with no burrs. I'm thinking leave well enough alone. It's probably going to annoy the daylights out of me but . . . I'll have to learn to live with it.

Thanks, again.

Whit

I'm sure I'll be back with more silly questions.

Consider this: SS fills the setscrew on the knurled knob with putty so as to prevent a user from accidentally loosening it by mistaking it for the arbor setscrew. i.e. It is only removed to service the quill shaft bearings.

No questions are 'silly'. Not asking them is!

BTW You should be seeing a flat on the shaft when looking in the setscrew hole.

[whit]

I think I may have misled you guys. I'm talking about the upper output shaft hub at the outboard end of the motor assembly, not the aluminum ring on the quill housing. This is one of the 3/4" drive hubs that you'd use to provide power to a tool mounted on the headrest. I think we may be talking opposite ends of the mule.

I may go ahead and leave it on, anyway. The belt housing will come off the motor assembly (just barely but it will come off) so it's probably no harm, no foul until I have to do any further maintenance on it.

Sorry if I confused the issue.

Whit

[JPG]

I think I may have misled you guys. I'm talking about the upper output shaft hub at the outboard end of the motor assembly, not the aluminum ring on the quill housing. This is one of the 3/4" drive hubs that you'd use to provide power to a tool mounted on the headrest. I think we may be talking opposite ends of the mule.

I may go ahead and leave it on, anyway. The belt housing will come off the motor assembly (just barely but it will come off) so it's probably no harm, no foul until I have to do any further maintenance on it.

Sorry if I confused the issue.

Whit

No Problem! However these are words that 'misled' -"I'm a bit concerned with the transfer of the heat to the bearings on the quill."

On that end the main shaft bearings reside!:)

Also we were primed by responding to another thread re the 'knurled knob'.

[dusty]

I think I may have misled you guys. I'm talking about the upper output shaft hub at the outboard end of the motor assembly, not the aluminum ring on the quill housing. This is one of the 3/4" drive hubs that you'd use to provide power to a tool mounted on the headrest. I think we may be talking opposite ends of the mule.

I may go ahead and leave it on, anyway. The belt housing will come off the motor assembly (just barely but it will come off) so it's probably no harm, no foul until I have to do any further maintenance on it.

Sorry if I confused the issue.

Whit

No problem at all, whit. This is what the forum is all about]verbal only[/U] communications is difficult when face to face. It is doubly difficult the way we are trying to do it.

We each need to hone our photographic skills so we can talk.:rolleyes:

[solorio]

he flooring they are speaking of is the Krnoswiss which has a new patented locking system that is not a tap and go, but a drop and lock. We offered to send a 3RD PARTY INSPECTOR at our cost if the flooring was truly defective, but the customer did not accept this offer.

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