Heat Problem with featherboard

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mmcneil
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Heat Problem with featherboard

Post by mmcneil »

Wondering if anyone has had the problems I'm experiencing and has a feasible solution. Some of my Shopsmith parts and accessories fail due to heat. For example, my feather boards get brittle and the feathers break off with minimal pressure after about 6 months or so and my sanding disc paper loses all of its adhesive power in no time. I suspect it is from the heat in my garage ... I live in the Phoenix metro.

Anyway, I'm frustrated because I'm in the middle of a project and all three of my featherboards are junk. I bought replacements at woodcraft, but they won't fit my mitre slots. The 5/8" slides are too small and the 3/4" are just too wide. I've tried Milescraft, but not Kreg or Jessum. Anyone have any feedback or suggestions. I would like another option other than just ordering more from SS that break down too quickly.

Thanks.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

mmcneil wrote:Wondering if anyone has had the problems I'm experiencing and has a feasible solution. Some of my Shopsmith parts and accessories fail due to heat. For example, my feather boards get brittle and the feathers break off with minimal pressure after about 6 months or so and my sanding disc paper loses all of its adhesive power in no time. I suspect it is from the heat in my garage ... I live in the Phoenix metro.

Anyway, I'm frustrated because I'm in the middle of a project and all three of my featherboards are junk. I bought replacements at woodcraft, but they won't fit my mitre slots. The 5/8" slides are too small and the 3/4" are just too wide. I've tried Milescraft, but not Kreg or Jessum. Anyone have any feedback or suggestions. I would like another option other than just ordering more from SS that break down too quickly.

Thanks.
Do it the old fashioned way. Make them from 'wood'!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

mmcneil wrote:Wondering if anyone has had the problems I'm experiencing and has a feasible solution. Some of my Shopsmith parts and accessories fail due to heat. For example, my feather boards get brittle and the feathers break off with minimal pressure after about 6 months or so and my sanding disc paper loses all of its adhesive power in no time. I suspect it is from the heat in my garage ... I live in the Phoenix metro.

Anyway, I'm frustrated because I'm in the middle of a project and all three of my featherboards are junk. I bought replacements at woodcraft, but they won't fit my mitre slots. The 5/8" slides are too small and the 3/4" are just too wide. I've tried Milescraft, but not Kreg or Jessum. Anyone have any feedback or suggestions. I would like another option other than just ordering more from SS that break down too quickly.

Thanks.
Yes, I do have some feedback and un fortunately it is not good (at least for you). Living in Arizona has some upsides but it also has some negatives. I don't know how long you have lived here but after a while you will have learned that anything made from plastics and most anything made from rubber does not survive as long as in most other parts of the country.:eek:

Keep those things out of the direct sun and out of the heat if at all possible. If not, buy extras and keep them in the house until you need them.:rolleyes:

As for buying after market items that utilize the miter track - get use to the fact that not many people make Shopsmith compatible miter bars or items that use compatible miter bars. I hope you salvaged those that were on your feather boards.:(

As has been suggested already, you can make wooden miter bars (feather boards too).
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote: . . .
As has been suggested already, you can make wooden miter bars (feather boards too).
Actually I meant 'the whole thing' fingers and all!:)
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
charlese
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Post by charlese »

mmcneil wrote:Wondering ... For example, my feather boards get brittle and the feathers break off with minimal pressure after about 6 months or so ... Anyone have any feedback or suggestions. I would like another option other than just ordering more from SS that break down too quickly.

Thanks.

Let google help you - here's a lot of information on making wood featherboards: http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp=ldymls&xhr=t&q=wood+featherboards&cp=8&pf=p&sclient=psy&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=wood+featherboards&pbx=1&fp=cf43155e95cc3965
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Post by jmadden »

Jerry
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »



Lots of good ideas here BUT... (complaining about a picture again) go to this page:
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/08/20-featherboard-plans-your-fingers-will-thank-you
And look at #16. Use Ctrl +++ to enlarge the picture on your browser.
Take a look at it closely... Look at the saw teeth... Unless my eyes are playing tricks on me that is the front of the saw... The feather board is installed backward. :confused: :confused: You couldn't push that board through there if you had to.


.
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1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

robinson46176 wrote:Lots of good ideas here BUT... (complaining about a picture again) go to this page:
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/08/20-featherboard-plans-your-fingers-will-thank-you
And look at #16. Use Ctrl +++ to enlarge the picture on your browser.
Take a look at it closely... Look at the saw teeth... Unless my eyes are playing tricks on me that is the front of the saw... The feather board is installed backward. :confused: :confused: You couldn't push that board through there if you had to.


.
Uh-Huh!

Your monitor is too large!:D(teeth)

Photographers are not supposed to know all these 'details'!:rolleyes:
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

Wow!

I have SS feather boards dating back to 80's plus some that I got in the last year or two and I live in Florida which is hot and none of my SS feather boards are effected.

I keep my feather boards in a cabinet. But other than that they have no other protection from heat, cold or etc.

One thing I do not use silicon spray in my wood shop. In fact I don't use much spray of any type in my shop. I'm of the conviction that sprays and especially silicon while making plastic look shiney does in fact break down plastic.

I had an old Datsun Pickup truck back in the 80's, when the truck was about 6 or 7 years old I decided I would give it a treat. I armour-alled it. Before I went near my truck with the chemicals it's dash and plastic were in perfect condition. Within a month of me armour-alling it the dash split and the plastic began to turn to powder.
Since then and the my experience with silicon, paint and fish eye I have virtually eliminated silicon from my wood shop.
Ed in Tampa
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

robinson46176 wrote:Lots of good ideas here BUT... (complaining about a picture again) go to this page:
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/08/20-featherboard-plans-your-fingers-will-thank-you
And look at #16. Use Ctrl +++ to enlarge the picture on your browser.
Take a look at it closely... Look at the saw teeth... Unless my eyes are playing tricks on me that is the front of the saw... The feather board is installed backward. :confused: :confused: You couldn't push that board through there if you had to.


.
Yep! Farmer is right! The blade is on backwards.:D
Ed in Tampa
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