dusty wrote:Yes, there certainly should have been a side view of the combination square showing the contact point of the square to the wheel.
Yes, I have tried the bandsaw on a Mark V as well as on the other Power Station. Findings: The Power Station and the Bandsaw (shown in the video clip) need some work. When running the Bandsaw on the Mark V, it is still noisy but was not as bad on the other Power Station.
Bottom line - both my stand-bye bandsaw and my 2nd Power Station are quieter than the ones I have been using every day. There is work to be done.
IMHO It is impossible to have a quiet running power station(less noisy perhaps, but not 'quiet'). Too much wobble in the intermediate shaft mount slide. Even 'new' parts are sloppy fit!:mad: Shimming 'helps' but doesn't cure!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
You really want to monitor the machined tracks on which the rubber wheels adhere. The wheel-casting itself isn't always machined to eliminate lateral runout along its metal edge. In the earlier days the wheels had each side of the rims machined. Later days, there is a machining operation for the rubber-tire-track grooves, and for wheel-balancing, but the sides of the rims can have some runout depending on how the original casting was.
nuhobby wrote:One more note, concerning "wheel wobble" tests...
You really want to monitor the machined tracks on which the rubber wheels adhere. The wheel-casting itself isn't always machined to eliminate lateral runout along its metal edge. In the earlier days the wheels had each side of the rims machined. Later days, there is a machining operation for the rubber-tire-track grooves, and for wheel-balancing, but the sides of the rims can have some runout depending on how the original casting was.
I anxiously await the new improved video from Tucson!:D
Sheez! - we were looking for a warped wheel check. If it be warped enough to throw the blade, we could probably see it with only our naked eyes!
Do not think that is his problem anyway, this was an exploratory branch for future reference.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
NICE JOB DUSTY!!! You will now be expected to provided video with all of your written expertise!:p Seriously, it can be very helpful to someone like me who has a limited number of " reference " points in these kinds of things.
I finally managed to get a set of poly tires. It was a lot of work to get the 'good' tire off the bottom wheel. Getting the new tires on was a small struggle, but I managed by myself. So I reinstall the blade, and wait overnight, as I read the tires need to tighten back up after being stretched for installation.
I go down stairs, start her up(at 700rpm), hide behind my barricade(yes, after my previous experiences, I am leery of this thing). KABOOM -all sorts of scary noises... I shut it down, pull the plug and open her up. BOTH tires are now off the wheels, originally I only had one tire falling off. Oh yeah, brand new blade decimated, four right angle bends in 16in of blade..
Is there some sort of adhesive I can use to secure the tires to the wheel?
I'm really beginning to resent this purchase. Seriously, I have less than 5 minutes of use out of this panacea of a tool. All the money I've spent on this thing I could've bought every tool it purportedly offers.. not to mention the downtime or the time spent working to earn the cash to buy parts and the time to fix/repair/maintain. It reminds me of a comment a retired carpenter made to me after I bought this thing... It's worth noting at this point, that I
am the kind of guy who prefers to buy old and restore, but this is beyond ridiculous. I acknowledge I am a noob in the Shopsmith scene, but it this thing is the single largest time/money drain I own. I have paid work to get done and projects to get finished.
I am frustrated, I don't want to come across as a hater, but NEVER have I had this much trouble with any tool or machine in my life! I AM A FIXER, but it never ends with this thing... I expect to find a VW symbol on this thing if I
look hard enough.
If you made it through my rant and have any ideas to help get me working again, please post.
If you have a 'straight' blade, install it and open up the guides both top and bottom. That is to eliminate the guides from causing any problems.
Adjust the tension to remove any slack(less than normal) and manually rotate the lower wheel and observe the motion of the blade.
The blade should drift to the back side of the upper wheel and run against the blade positioning bearings. Assuming you have the double bearing guide, the blade should run in the small groove between the bearings.
Back the lower(and upper) blade backup bearings away from the blade. Manually rotate the lower wheel again until the blade positions itself(stabilizes position).
Adjust the lower blade bearing to just touch the back of the blade.
Adjust the upper blade backup bearing to just clear the back of the blade.
Again manually rotate the lower wheel and observe blade movement. Increase speed(still manually powered) until either the blade runs normally, or foe whatever reason jumps off the wheel(s).
All the while the back of the blade should be running on the backup bearings(except the upper which should continue to 'just clear').
Assuming all be normal to this point, close in the blade guides, and make sure the teeth are not into the guide. Only the flat portion of the blade should be even with the guides.
Manually again rotate the lower wheel. All should be well. If not you must determine why not!
Adjust the blade for normal tension(for the blade size) and again manually power it.
If all is well, replace the cover and try again under machine power.
Now one last detail! You ARE mounting the bandsaw to the left of the headstock(left as you face the speed control side). If you are powering the bandsaw from the quill shaft side, you have been attempting to run it backwards!!!!!:eek:
THAT DON"T WORK!!!;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I know you said you're running this at 700 RPM, but you should double check that. The bandsaw should run on "slow" speed to "D" speed. Also, too much tension on the blade will cause the tires to peel off the wheels and that will cause the blade to come off as well, and then the blade can be bent easily in the process. If the tires were stretched as a result of coming off the wheels, you'll need some adhesive to keep the tires in place. If they've stretched too much, they likely won't stay on even with adhesive.
I have a few things to check out it looks like. My machine has no Alphabetical
speed indicators, just RPM/Tool.
It is on the left side of the powerhead, switched to FWD.
I sent an email to the seller of the tires, he had me measure them and get back to him.. turns out I was sent the wrong size -too big. HOPEFULLY the correct size replacements will cure this issue.
All my friends are envious of this machine, but I'm beginning to get a lot of hazing regarding the constant state of brokenness...
