Bandsaw Blade Alignment
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Bandsaw Blade Alignment
I seem to be having trouble with a 1/4" blade not cutting straight. I have adjusted everything to the best of my ability but it still cuts to my left as I face the blade- probably 10-15d degrees, quite an angle. The size of the piece does not seem to matter.
Any suggestions??
thanks
Any suggestions??
thanks
The tension is correct according to the gauge on the inside of the saw. As near as I can tell the guides are correctly set, just a bit of contact on both sides. I have tried varying feed speed/pressure and it doesn't seem to make any difference. I would guess that if any of these three points is suspect it's the guide setting.
Thank you
--pat
Thank you
--pat
Could also be the teeth set causing the problem. Try another blade.basaltboy wrote:I would guess that if any of these three points is suspect it's the guide setting.
Thank you
--pat
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
- dusty
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Bandsaw, correct? Blade induced drift...that is what you are experiencing. If you would draw a straight line down the center of a piece of wood that you are going to rip and then attempt to rip it (following that line) without a fence you will see the results of drift.
Cut about half way and stop. Do not move the board that you were cutting. Look at it with respect to the expected line of cut and you will find that the board is off to one side or the other. DRIFT. A normal occurrence which will most likely be different with every blade you use.
You cannot rip against a fence on the bandsaw as you do on the table saw due to....you guessed it....drift.
Added Comment:
This is not exactly a true statement! You can rip against a fence but the fence must be set on that drift line (angle of drift) rather than square to the table (parallel to the blade).
Cut about half way and stop. Do not move the board that you were cutting. Look at it with respect to the expected line of cut and you will find that the board is off to one side or the other. DRIFT. A normal occurrence which will most likely be different with every blade you use.
You cannot rip against a fence on the bandsaw as you do on the table saw due to....you guessed it....drift.
Added Comment:
This is not exactly a true statement! You can rip against a fence but the fence must be set on that drift line (angle of drift) rather than square to the table (parallel to the blade).
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- curiousgeorge
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Sometimes "drift" can be caused by uneven "set" of the teeth on the blade. One of the old tips for correcting this (or reducing it) is to rub a sharpening stone on the side of the blade where the drift is heading. If I understand it correctly, it is supposed to reduce the aggressiveness of the teeth on that side, yielding a cut with reduced or no drift.
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1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
- curiousgeorge
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 1:00 am
- Location: Fort Worth, Texas