Bandsaw Blade Alignment

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 6:12 pm

anmius wrote:Sometimes "drift" can be caused by uneven "set" of the teeth on the blade. One of the old tips for correcting this (or reducing it) is to rub a sharpening stone on the side of the blade where the drift is heading. If I understand it correctly, it is supposed to reduce the aggressiveness of the teeth on that side, yielding a cut with reduced or no drift.

I think that sharpening stone is suppose to applied to the 'back corners' of the blade (not the side).

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 7:47 am

dusty wrote:I think that sharpening stone is suppose to applied to the 'back corners' of the blade (not the side).

I've seen it done both ways. The sides the reduce kerf width (which with a band saw does seem rather superfluous), and around the back edge.

Never noticed any particular improvement from doing the sides, but round the rear made a very noticeable difference. Not in tracking, but in smoothly working through curved cuts, the tighter the curve, the better the effect.

8iowa · Post by **8iowa** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 10:29 am

All the comments and descriptions of blade drift are absolutely correct.

My only "addition" is the comment that a 1/4" blade is not really intended for straight line cuts. To cut straight you will be better served with a 1/2" or better yet a 5/8" blade.

michaeltoc · Post by **michaeltoc** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:40 pm

basaltboy wrote:Thanks-
Isn't resawing done on a bandsaw with a fence??

Take a look at the Kreg resaw fence - it's curved so that you can keep the wood vertical while being able to adjust for drift

judaspre1982 · Post by **judaspre1982** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 3:16 pm

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jimsjinx · Post by **jimsjinx** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 8:42 pm

You are indeed suffering the normal effects of "drift". When resawing, you can use a "pin" inserted into a base of MDF or something, and clamp that to the bandsaw table. The pin is positioned where the fence would normally go, and you pivot the piece being cut on the pin,to adjust for drift. Another thing, you should use a larger blade, with a raker set, so as to keep the waste flowing out of the cut, avoiding heat. The tension indicators are totally dependant on the tensioning spring to be in perfect shape, which after years of use or even non use, will not be as tight as it will indicate. I tap the blade as I tension it to listen for a "clicking" sound, instead of a sound similar to a loose guitar string. My tension indicator is WAY off, and the bandsaw is a Delta 16", that is only 7 years old! Just a thought. jimsjinx

basaltboy · Post by **basaltboy** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 5:36 pm

Thanks to all of you for the help and suggestions- it looks like I should be able to adjust or solve the problem.
--pat

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Bandsaw Blade Alignment

My 2 cents