Choosing Hand Planes

[fiatben]

So, what brands of old, used hand planes should a newbie avoid?

And here's a question for everyone; what is the best way to learn how to plane rough lumber? Or, for that matter, how do you plane rough lumber? After all, I have all of this (and more):
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for which I had to build the racks after moving all of this;
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and a whole LOT more, practically the whole barn full of stuff. But, that's another thread (maybe).

[holsgo]

The first thing you need is a sturdy tool bench. I'll post pics of mine after I get in there to do some work today. I used a torsion box construction.
Second. To plane rough lumber is normally a scrub plane, followed by a #5. This brings it to rough dimension. Winding sticks can be used to find high spots. Now the preference in the rest is a user decision as far as my experience. For long boards you want to use a long plane. You could go for a number 8 for example. As you plane you'll hear and feel the blade cut intermittently. Once you have planes the 8, drop to the 7. I love to use my "fore" plane much more than others. This is a #6. It's called a "fore" because it's to be used before the 7 and 8. Working your way down in planes eventually using the #4 to smooth. There are illustrations online about planing that use peaks and valleys to demonstrate. Think of the peaks being straddled by the length of the plane. As the peaks descrease because they are being planed, a shorter plane can then pick up more peaks, plane them down and so on. The shorted the plane the closer the peaks would be. Jointing the edge is similiar but you obviously focus on using the 7 and 8.

[terrydowning]

[quote="fiatben"]So, what brands of old, used hand planes should a newbie avoid?

And here's a question for everyone]

Here is a start.

http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/what_plane/what_plane_to_buy.htm

Near the bottom of the page are links to 4 different pages that provide much more detail.

Of course proper technique is also a matter of practice. This is a muscle memory thing.

[horologist]

At the risk of being repetitive....

For the best single reference on choosing, tuning, and using hand planes I highly recommend Handplane Essentials by Christopher Schwarz.

Troy

[fiatben]

At the risk of being repetitive....

For the best single reference on choosing, tuning, and using hand planes I highly recommend Handplane Essentials by Christopher Schwarz.

Troy

Yeah, in the process of trying to find this book as cheaply as possible (i.e. ebay, half.com, etc.) and going thru the local library's woodworking collection as well.

[fiatben]

OK, so I bought a plane on evilbay because it was cheap (as in $4 for a Sargent 408, equivalent to Stanley #3 I think) but it is missing the tote. I am thinking it can't be too hard to build a new tote. Isn't it just a wooden handle with a hole thru the middle for the bolt to thread into the body and secure the handle?

[holsgo]

Does it have the tote rod? The rod that holds the tote to the sole. These are odd thread sizes. It's not the end of the world without it. Just either thread a new rod or, as I've done with some fixer uppers, weld a nut to the sole and screw into that.

[terrydowning]

As holsgo says. and you suspect.

I'm in the process of building new handles for my Stanley #5 and Stanley #6 planes. The handle on the #5 was cracked and re-glued, the handle on the #6 is beyond repair. I'm using the handle from the #5 as a template for the new handles.

I'm also making new knobs for both so they match. The new wood parts will be from Maple (because it's what I have).

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[holsgo]

I've done a few of them. Basic bandsawing then on to the files. I reshaped a new stanley 62. It comes with a rather awkward shape but I reshaped it just as the original 62. Awesome plane for $100.

[fiatben]

As holsgo says. and you suspect.
I'm also making new knobs for both so they match. The new wood parts will be from Maple (because it's what I have).

Mine will be either walnut or cherry because that is what I have. Unless I dig thru the odds and ends of exotics that I accumulated 15 years ago when I owned my first SS (long story).

It is missing the tote rod as well, but I figure I can work around that. I am hopeful that a local nut&bolt supplier can match the threads. Other options would be to rethread it (helicoil) or, as suggested, weld a nut (since I just bought my first welder and am anxious to practice with it).

Of course, until it quits SNOWING and gets above FREEZING, I'm not doing much of anything. (Although I did bring in my old SS saw blade and a set of needle files to dress it a bit while I'm waiting for things to thaw back out. I really need to figure out a way to have an insulated and heated shop!)