Modified Quill

Forum for Maintenance and Repair topics. Feel free to ask questions or contribute.

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dusty
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Post by dusty »

I think that I agree with most all of what you have said but I also do not believe that anyone has implied that the single bearing quill was unacceptable when compared to a two bearing quill.

When most of us start talking about changing out equipment (spending money) we perceive that there is a problem with what we have and need (want) to improve.

If quills are the point and I have a wobbly single bearing quill, there are two ways I can correct that. Get a new bearing or get a new quill. If I choose to get a new quill, should it be a one bearing or two bearing quill.

I believe this has been the basis for most all of these discussions. I don't believe I have seen a single post that implies a single bearing quill is incapable of reliable and accurate performance.

I am sure that even you will admit that some quills are better than others (in terms of runout). That is what is being said here.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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holsgo
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Post by holsgo »

It's all in what you want out of it. All I can go by is my data and performance after I added the additional bearings. I'm very happy and the decision for someone else to go either way isn't for me to say.

PS. I'm not comparing anything but before and after with my single bearing.
pennview
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Post by pennview »

Opinions on the two versus one bearing quill vary, but according to Nick Engler, the two bearing quill is a "whole lot better." He says the maximum runout with the one bearing is .005" and the two bearing is .001".

He makes these comments in Sawdust Session 7.1 -- http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... enance.htm
Art in Western Pennsylvania
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

pennview wrote:Opinions on the two versus one bearing quill vary, but according to Nick Engler, the two bearing quill is a "whole lot better." He says the maximum runout with the one bearing is .005" and the two bearing is .001".

He makes these comments in Sawdust Session 7.1 -- http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS107/SS107_Quill_Maintenance.htm

If he meant to say that the maximum runout that you will ever experience with a two bearing quill is .001" then I will have to disagree and if necessary I could demo to him to make my point.

I have a 2 bearing that is greater than .001". Not much but it is greater.

However, I think he meant to be be communicating a fact that the runout on the 2 bearing quill is typically .001".

I think a 2 bearing quill probably remains within manufacturing specifications longer and with greater use/abuse than will a single bearing quill and that is the extent of advantage that one has over the other.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

Trying to clarify again... I have nothing against a 2 bearing quill. Some of my best friends are 2 bearing quills. :) All I object to is all of the postings that have been on here over maybe the last 6 months or longer where someone has bought a 40 year old SS and tells about having replaced their worn 1 bearing quill with a 2 bearing quill and it was so much better that it shows that a 2 bearing quill is so much better than a one bearing quill. I have absolutely no problem what so ever with someone saying that installing a new 2 bearing quill "improved" their Shopsmith. I just want someone for a change to compare a new 1 bearing quill to a new 2 bearing quill or even a worn 2 bearing quill to a worn 1 bearing quill. Comparing a worn 1 bearing quill to a new 2 bearing quill is just bad science, period. Compare apples to apples. Put a gingham dress on it and add a bow if you like, but bad science is still bad science.
Admit it or not a general consensus has developed here on this forum that a 1 bearing quill is somehow inadequate and undesirable. Right along with a smaller original table. If you don't believe me go back and honestly read some of the newby introduction postings more recently where they have been lurking and then make a first post virtually apologizing for owning a Shopsmith with a single bearing quill and a small table... :eek:
"Nobody" needs to apologize for owning a Shopsmith with a single bearing quill and a small table...
BTW, holsgo clearly stated that much of his choice was driven by his desire to do some light metal working which is a whole other ballgame. I was not taking him to task for choosing a two bearing quill for that purpose. Heck if I were planning on metal working on one I might put 2 bearings in the arbor end and another at the rear. That however is not the need of 99.9% of the woodworkers on this forum and we shouldn't be making them feel that they cannot do first class work with an older Shopsmith with good standard bearings.
I have said before (and I believe Bill Mayo backed me up) that for the average Shopsmith owner with a worn quill bearing just popping in a new bearing is quite adequate for maybe another 40 years of service. Take the money saved and buy another tool.
BTW, I cannot say for sure but I suspect that after a few months heavy daily use that a 2 bearing quill will NOT still read out at .001
I'll have to check a couple of mine... Might be interesting.

Just curious (looking out the window at the snow) has anyone ever checked the run-out at widely different temperatures? Like maybe zero and one hundred? Also might be interesting.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

I totally agree with ya Farmer. (now that's SCARY to me)

Also I WILL KNOT apologize for my original 500 table and single bearing quill.
:D
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

robinson46176 wrote:.....

Just curious (looking out the window at the snow) has anyone ever checked the run-out at widely different temperatures? Like maybe zero and one hundred? Also might be interesting.
I can do the test at 100 degrees. Someone else will have to handle the 0 degree test - Farmer?:rolleyes:
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

dusty wrote:I can do the test at 100 degrees. Someone else will have to handle the 0 degree test - Farmer?:rolleyes:

It needs to be the same quill. Sadly I can probably do that in Central Indiana. Maybe even just a few weeks apart. :D
I did walk through the woodshop today when I hauled a little firewood down there and was just wiggling the quills by hand but without any measuring devices. The tightest quill I felt was on my best old Mark VII. The loosest was on one head of the push-me pull-me drill press. That headstock came from the "Old Gray Mare" which was my second SS and did look a little tired back when I bought it. It was not really abused looking but did seem to have had heavy use. Its wheels were also worn to a frazzle (technical term :) ).
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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