My own design. Go back to post 9 of this thread. It is not as refined a Dustys, I just haven't had any time to do so. I believe that I could improve even more if I tried but this is certainly acceptable for now.JPG40504 wrote:Which simple baffle(s) did you add? Dusty(a), Dusty(b) or both, or ??????
A little challenge
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Mark
2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
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Mark
2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.

You know those phony credit cards we all get in the mail? Well I got into the pile of those I keep in my shop and shoved one into the front of the lower saw guard in the space where the lower saw guard slides (adjusts).
To do this the lower saw guard had to be opened it's widest, up against the tie bar.
Whata know! It worked! Hardly no saw dust at all escaped onto the carriage or the floor.
Thanks for your idea and application, Dusty!!!:D
Thanks for your challenge, Mark!!!:D
Why do I keep a pile of cards in the shop? They are excellent for spacers for aligning doors and drawers and other places where a little space is required.
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Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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Your timing is perfect for me. It has created another challenge. I must reinstall my baffle. I used two sided tape but a couple weeks ago that failed. The baffle came loose and I have been sweeping instead.
It is time to make a new baffle. This time I am thinking of pop rivets rather than tape.
I am glad that this worked for you Charlese.
It is time to make a new baffle. This time I am thinking of pop rivets rather than tape.
I am glad that this worked for you Charlese.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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I have also heard that they make good corner squares, I have yet to use one as a square, but 90 degrees is 90 degrees. Assuming of course they were cut square. Just a thought.charlese wrote: Why do I keep a pile of cards in the shop? They are excellent for spacers for aligning doors and drawers and other places where a little space is required.

Allmond
Southwest Oklahoma
SS Mark V 510 (1988 Serial) with wraparound accessory shelves (simple shop made design)
SS Mark V 500 (1954 Serial) with shop made front accessory shelf
11" Cast Table Band saw (needs an Insert), Strip Sander, Biscuit Joiner, Shaper Fence (500), Drum Sander, Shaper Cutters, and many shop-made jigs for the Shopsmith.
Craftsman 12" Planer, 6 1/8" Jointer
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Southwest Oklahoma
SS Mark V 510 (1988 Serial) with wraparound accessory shelves (simple shop made design)
SS Mark V 500 (1954 Serial) with shop made front accessory shelf
11" Cast Table Band saw (needs an Insert), Strip Sander, Biscuit Joiner, Shaper Fence (500), Drum Sander, Shaper Cutters, and many shop-made jigs for the Shopsmith.
Craftsman 12" Planer, 6 1/8" Jointer
Shop made Router Table with Hitachi 2hp Router

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Charlese and Mark:charlese wrote:Had an epiphany yesterday. Thought I'd try Dusty's idea of a saw dust baffle. Of course, since I'm not big on designing or making precise type jigs, thought I'd try a simpler version of the baffle.
You know those phony credit cards we all get in the mail? Well I got into the pile of those I keep in my shop and shoved one into the front of the lower saw guard in the space where the lower saw guard slides (adjusts).
To do this the lower saw guard had to be opened it's widest, up against the tie bar.
Whata know! It worked! Hardly no saw dust at all escaped onto the carriage or the floor.
Thanks for your idea and application, Dusty!!!:D
Thanks for your challenge, Mark!!!:D
Why do I keep a pile of cards in the shop? They are excellent for spacers for aligning doors and drawers and other places where a little space is required.
Are you guys still using the dust deflectors that were discussed in this thread.
If you are using them, I assume that they are working. If you have discontinued their use, would you please explain why.
I have modified mine slightly and have made one from galvanized flashing. It doesn't work any better but I believe the metal version will last longer.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty mine is permanent on my 520. I made the last one from a portion of a double sided spreader for bondo. It was one that had two finger grooves down the middle. I wish I could find more of them as I was able to pre drill and run 2 screws into it through the side of the dust guard. It is not in the way for any of my other operations and the only time it is problematic is when lowering the table down over the guard. If I remember to just reach under and push slightly on the lower guard it slipps right down. If I dont it will catch and remind me.
I would guess that it is responsible for catching at least 60% more of the saw dust.

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Mark
2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
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Mark
2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
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Thanks for the response Mark. I have been playing with mine a bit more. I suppose you could say that I am obsessing over the 40% that gets through. However, I do not believe the deflectors that either you or I have are responsible.
My dust is getting through between the spring loaded deflector and the table and through an opening right behind the trunnion.
I'll post pictures when I have more specific information.
What makes this hard is that a solution with the table horizontal will likely interfer with one thing or another when you attempt to tilt the table. I tilt the table a lot so I need to work both.
Thanks again for your reply.
My dust is getting through between the spring loaded deflector and the table and through an opening right behind the trunnion.
I'll post pictures when I have more specific information.
What makes this hard is that a solution with the table horizontal will likely interfer with one thing or another when you attempt to tilt the table. I tilt the table a lot so I need to work both.
Thanks again for your reply.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty I brought the deflector up about 1/2" above the top of the guard and it made a huge difference. Before it was throwing stuff the way you described.
If you tilt the table a lot it may make sense to buy and extra blade guard for those operations.
If you tilt the table a lot it may make sense to buy and extra blade guard for those operations.
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Mark
2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
****************
Mark
2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
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I had a chance to visit mbcabinetmaker's shop yesterday (very very nice!) and we talked about several Shopsmith related issues one of which was the baffel for improved dust collection. After seeing his, I had to give it a go for myself. Here's what I came up with...
This is my results without a baffel - I cut about 6.5 feet of 2x4.
[ATTACH]16055[/ATTACH]
This is the result with the baffle installed - same length of 2x4
[ATTACH]16056[/ATTACH]
Here's what it looks like mounted to the lower saw guard. It is made from a piece of 1/2" pine.
[ATTACH]16057[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]16058[/ATTACH]
I have a dimensioned drawing if there is any interest.
This is my results without a baffel - I cut about 6.5 feet of 2x4.
[ATTACH]16055[/ATTACH]
This is the result with the baffle installed - same length of 2x4
[ATTACH]16056[/ATTACH]
Here's what it looks like mounted to the lower saw guard. It is made from a piece of 1/2" pine.
[ATTACH]16057[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]16058[/ATTACH]
I have a dimensioned drawing if there is any interest.
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- DC_Before.jpg (118.5 KiB) Viewed 4279 times
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- DC_After.jpg (105.37 KiB) Viewed 4278 times
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- DC_Right.jpg (73.23 KiB) Viewed 4275 times
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- DC_Left.jpg (76.52 KiB) Viewed 4274 times
Bill
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Mark V 520 50th Anniversary Edition, Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw
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Mark V 520 50th Anniversary Edition, Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw
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Bill: You have used a different baffle format but you have done essentially the same thing as I did.
I am curious though about how you decided how wide to make the lower saw guard.
I have one that is about the same and one that is about 1/2 that size. I am trying to determine which one is best.
I am also trying to determine if there is any functionality that we are disabling by eliminating this adjustibility.
I am curious though about how you decided how wide to make the lower saw guard.
I have one that is about the same and one that is about 1/2 that size. I am trying to determine which one is best.
I am also trying to determine if there is any functionality that we are disabling by eliminating this adjustibility.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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