ted766 wrote:come on you woodcarvers out there ,.I,m waiting for you to defend your methods of sharpening with all kinds of expensive stones which are almost unused in my workshop,In my opinion all the long winded articles and books describing the best lubricant for a stone and discussion of every kind of stone from Charnley Forest to diamond bench stones ,are all cancelled by the beautiful quick and efficient RUBBER-BONDED ABRASIVE WHEEL!
I speak from 40 years experience as a self employed woodcarver,I too in the beginning read the books and sent many futile hours fiddling away with the latest thing in stones but in the words of the song "its all over now baby blue" Ted 766
I have a good bit of sharpening equipment, some of it pretty specialized like my Belsaw chainsaw chain grinder. Other things could be done on it but I have only used it on chainsaw chains (thousands of them).
I'm not very quick though to run out and buy "the latest".
I do probably 90% of my sharpening in 3 ways.
Number 1 is my Belsaw 1"x42" abrasive belt grinder. Ultra useful and frequently used on all kinds of stuff.
Number 2 is a diamond hone.
Number 3 is a common sheet of sandpaper, usually laid on a smooth cast iron tool table like a table saw. Sorry I don't buy the need for a sheet of glass, I use "working" edges not some perceived ideal.
I also believe in removing the minimum amount of material required to maintain good "working" edge. I see stuff, mostly at yard sales, that has been eaten into oblivion by heavy grinding when most of the time a quick touch would have done the job. Back when I was working as a cutter in a plastic film conversion factory we did most of our everyday cutting with a hand held knife even if we had roughed it out with a electric Eastman knife. We had a bench grinder available for reshaping the blades but most of the time we just used oil stones stationed all around the department. You could tell the experienced cutters from the newer ones because the newer ones spent huge amounts of time grinding away the blade then another huge amount of time trying to wear out an oil stone. The experienced cutters would just hit the blade on the stone a few quick licks as they walked by a stone and would only do some serious oil stone work about once a day and reshape on the grinder about once a week.
I spent over 20 years doing boot and shoe rebuilding and rubber and leather both require sharp tools to work well and safely. I sharpened a lot but generally just a tiny bit at a time. When you pay big bucks for specialty knives you don't want to eat them up unnecessarily.
I tend to work that way in the wood shop as well. Yes I want sharp tools but there are "working" sharp tools and there is silly sharp tools (if you are a carver ignore this).
I grind jointer blades and planer blades with my 1"x42" belt grinder using an extremely light grind. I don't want to grind away good steel unnecessarily. Unlike many folks I do not jump in and grind out every nick if there are any. If I get a tiny nick I don''t yank the blades and grind the bee-jeebers out of them. Most of the time I don't even loosen up a blade and slide a blade over to get rid of the tiny ridge it leaves. No matter how smooth a board come out of a planer I am not going to just slap some varnish on that surface. I am going to sand it first and that tiny ridge will just disappear as if it was never there.
I often touch up jointer and planer blades very lightly with a diamond hone several times before pulling them for a light grind.
Even with hand tools I am quick to touch up a blade very lightly often instead of pulling it and grinding the dickens out of it. I always have some about 400 grit paper around and will often hit something with just a few quick strokes while I work. Sharpening should be a constant process, not a traumatic “event”.
I do sets of 3 mower blades for my son's employer during the summers when ever he brings a set or two home. They are from a huge commercial mower. I absolutely hate doing them because they hit a lot of rocks but when they get them back they want then razor sharp with all traces of any nicks fully removed. Absolutely silly and wasteful. They buy the most expensive blades with hard facing on the bottom of the blade edge then beat them up and keep mowing with them really dull. Then when all of those nicks are gone so is all of the special hard surfacing. That silly sharp edge they insist on is gone in the first 50 feet of mowing... If they would just let me sharpen them well but sensibly and more often their blades would last 10 times longer and they would be using reasonably sharp blades for much more of their mowing. Oh, well, Its their dime.