Headstock brg Replacement Mk V moder# 555541 - SN#120691

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tomthornton
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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 9:32 pm

Headstock brg Replacement Mk V moder# 555541 - SN#120691

Post by tomthornton »

I detected some mild chatter whilst turning so investigated the Headstock and determined that the rear or innermost bearing was failing. :(
I ordered SKF replacements 6002-2Z/C3 @ $10.57 and 6003@Z/C3 @ $12.21.
Scant info was found on the web as to a correct procedure so I thought I should share my successful experience.

Buried in the top of the headstock under some sort of goop or soft alloy is a hex socket grub screw which retains the headstock's quill assy. You need to dig out this and loosen the grub/set screw to allow the quill to be removed.
It is next necessary to remove the internal circlip at the business end of the quill, the shaft and bearings assy then pulls out easely ( Don't loose the two shims under the circlip) !
The splined portion of the shaft is attached to the bearing mounting section with a roll pin. Clearly mark the the alignment of these two shafts. Using the correctly sized pin punch drive out the roll pin and retain for re-assy. Now the splined section can be removed and the bearings pressed off and replacements installed. A proper press is recommended. Reassemble all and reinstall the shaft and spline shims and circlip.
Reset the retaining grub screw thusly - tighten until it just nips the bottom keyslot and the quill is held in place against the return spring, now back off 1/4 turn . All's good Check for free movement of quill.
Now she runs realy sweet :)

TomT Blogspot - http://tomndi.blogspot.com/
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JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35600
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

tomthornton wrote:I detected some mild chatter whilst turning so investigated the Headstock and determined that the rear or innermost bearing was failing. :(
I ordered SKF replacements 6002-2Z/C3 @ $10.57 and 6003@Z/C3 @ $12.21.
Scant info was found on the web as to a correct procedure so I thought I should share my successful experience.

Buried in the top of the headstock under some sort of goop or soft alloy is a hex socket grub screw which retains the headstock's quill assy. You need to dig out this and loosen the grub/set screw to allow the quill to be removed.
It is next necessary to remove the internal circlip at the business end of the quill, the shaft and bearings assy then pulls out easely ( Don't loose the two shims under the circlip) !
The splined portion of the shaft is attached to the bearing mounting section with a roll pin. Clearly mark the the alignment of these two shafts. Using the correctly sized pin punch drive out the roll pin and retain for re-assy. Now the splined section can be removed and the bearings pressed off and replacements installed. A proper press is recommended. Reassemble all and reinstall the shaft and spline shims and circlip.
Reset the retaining grub screw thusly - tighten until it just nips the bottom keyslot and the quill is held in place against the return spring, now back off 1/4 turn . All's good Check for free movement of quill.
Now she runs realy sweet :)

TomT Blogspot - http://tomndi.blogspot.com/
Good job! Realize there are different versions of the two bearing quill.

Your description will help anyone having one like yours(two piece shaft).
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35600
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

tomthornton wrote:I detected some mild chatter whilst turning so investigated the Headstock and determined that the rear or innermost bearing was failing. :(
I ordered SKF replacements 6002-2Z/C3 @ $10.57 and 6003@Z/C3 @ $12.21.
Scant info was found on the web as to a correct procedure so I thought I should share my successful experience.

Buried in the top of the headstock under some sort of goop or soft alloy is a hex socket grub screw which retains the headstock's quill assy. You need to dig out this and loosen the grub/set screw to allow the quill to be removed.
It is next necessary to remove the internal circlip at the business end of the quill, the shaft and bearings assy then pulls out easely ( Don't loose the two shims under the circlip) !
The splined portion of the shaft is attached to the bearing mounting section with a roll pin. Clearly mark the the alignment of these two shafts. Using the correctly sized pin punch drive out the roll pin and retain for re-assy. Now the splined section can be removed and the bearings pressed off and replacements installed. A proper press is recommended. Reassemble all and reinstall the shaft and spline shims and circlip.
Reset the retaining grub screw thusly - tighten until it just nips the bottom keyslot and the quill is held in place against the return spring, now back off 1/4 turn . All's good Check for free movement of quill.
Now she runs realy sweet :)

TomT Blogspot - http://tomndi.blogspot.com/
Good job! Realize there are different versions of the two bearing quill.

Your description will help anyone having one like yours(two piece shaft).
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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