Digital Calipers

horologist · Post by **horologist** » Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:32 am

tdubnik wrote:If you go to Radio Shack to buy your batteries you are WAY over paying. The 3 volt button batteries used in most of my measuring equipment can be had from Amazon for about $1 each and if you go to your local dollar store you can sometimes find them in a package of 3 for $1.

Thanks, I usually order mine from Jules Borel

http://www.julesborel.com/

The Dollar Store is an interesting idea though, around here it seems like you can't throw a rock without hitting one.

Troy

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:34 am

tdubnik wrote:If you go to Radio Shack to buy your batteries you are WAY over paying. The 3 volt button batteries used in most of my measuring equipment can be had from Amazon for about $1 each and if you go to your local dollar store you can sometimes find them in a package of 3 for $1.

Thank you much - for this reminder. I have a same multimeter that uses 1154 button batteries which I have not been able to find. I just found them on ebay (a button pack of fifty(50)) for less than $5 with free shipping.

That's not all of the story. Shortly after - while looking at the PDF manual for the Craftsman Miter Saw that I just got from Gene Howe, I discovered that it uses three each of the same batteries for the laser guide (which I didn't know it had. This might be a good day.

oldc6 · Post by **oldc6** » Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:47 am

a picture of the caliper that i have........ it has nice fit and finish..[ATTACH]11997[/ATTACH]

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Tue Feb 22, 2011 3:22 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Francis I agree with what you said in the context it was meant. As long as that randomly dimensioned part did not have to fit tightly to/with another part than 'close' is Aok. If you intend to make more than 'one' and make 'interchangable' parts, then no it ain't.

So 'It all depends'!:)

We can be a bit 'sloppy' with wood(after all it does shape shift), but with harder more stable stuff, better precision(measuring) is needed....

Let me disagree here, Red! Farmer was right on-- Where did Farmer say the randomly dimensioned part did not have to fit tightly? Using a non-digital dimensioned piece does not mean that piece does not fit exactly. My goodness! We really do need to understand that "fitting" of parts is often more exacting than trying to duplicate a measurement. Also "fitting" is less frustrating than exact digital measuring.

Long live story sticks and calipers without measurements!!!!:D

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Feb 22, 2011 7:51 pm

charlese wrote:Let me disagree here, Red! Farmer was right on-- Where did Farmer say the randomly dimensioned part did not have to fit tightly? Using a non-digital dimensioned piece does not mean that piece does not fit exactly. My goodness! We really do need to understand that "fitting" of parts is often more exacting than trying to duplicate a measurement. Also "fitting" is less frustrating than exact digital measuring.

Long live story sticks and calipers without measurements!!!!:D

Context, context, context. I agreed with Francis in the context he intended, AND with you also.

The context I was alluding to was the need to 'mate' with a(n) independently produced piece(s). Nothing wrong with mating pieces being unique, but matching. As long as interchangeability is not relevant, it really don't matter!:)

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Fri Feb 25, 2011 1:26 pm

[ATTACH]12032[/ATTACH]

billmayo wrote:My order for this tool has been shipped so I will post when I receive it.

OK. The 2 Digital Calipers arrived today. I checked the accuracy with my mikes (up to 3") and they were right on. I needed these calipers for inside measurements. They worked & fit well for what I am doing. The latest machine shop I used machined the bearing OD inside the quill housing around .005" too large and was not centered (.003 off). I plan to do my own machining on my metal lathe in the future. This is my first digital calipers that shows fractions. The only problem I see maybe the ability to survive being dropped and/or stepped on. The arms looks and feels weak and can be flexed a little so I will have to be more careful when using these calipers.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Feb 25, 2011 4:56 pm

Interesting! The stated accuracy is +- 0.01"! You allude to measuring machine shop output and being dissatisfied with errors of 0.005" and 0.003". I would not use these calipers as the only input in deciding such matters.

BTW They are the same 'brand' as a wixey knockoff I recently obtained from Rockler. At least that one is accurate to +- .05 degree.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Fri Feb 25, 2011 6:36 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Interesting! The stated accuracy is +- 0.01"! You allude to measuring machine shop output and being dissatisfied with errors of 0.005" and 0.003". I would not use these calipers as the only input in deciding such matters.

BTW They are the same 'brand' as a wixey knockoff I recently obtained from Rockler. At least that one is accurate to +- .05 degree.

Actually the quill bearings was what showed me first that the quill housing and shaft machining I had done was off. LocTite could not make up the difference. I had to use mechanical inside calipers to go deep inside the quill housing where the bearings will go and then measure them with my mike after getting them back from the machine shop. These digit calipers will cut the time down to check after each cut when I start doing my own machining. I need a +-.001 accuracy when machining for ball bearings. I was very surprised at the accuracy of these units. Most of my work is metal machining and milling for Shopsmith modifications, attachments and jigs.

I have back up mikes to check these calipers for correct measurements when I get real close to my final cut. I am learning that machining to a +-.001 accuracy is not something I can find at my local machine shops without a very large fee for this service. Since I have the metal lathe, I will try to make/machine the lathe parts/jigs I need to get this accuracy. This is some of the fun stuff I like to do.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Feb 25, 2011 6:59 pm

billmayo wrote:Actually the quill bearings was what showed me first that the quill housing and shaft machining I had done was off. LocTite could not make up the difference. I had to use mechanical inside calipers to go deep inside the quill housing where the bearings will go and then measure them with my mike after getting them back from the machine shop. These digit calipers will cut the time down to check after each cut when I start doing my own machining. I need a +-.001 accuracy when machining for ball bearings. I was very surprised at the accuracy of these units. Most of my work is metal machining and milling for Shopsmith modifications, attachments and jigs.

I have back up mikes to check these calipers for correct measurements when I get real close to my final cut. I am learning that machining to a +-.001 accuracy is not something I can find at my local machine shops without a very large fee for this service. Since I have the metal lathe, I will try to make/machine the lathe parts/jigs I need to get this accuracy. This is some of the fun stuff I like to do.

That surprises me! They call themselves machinists? Guess I be spoiled!

Good Luck 'doing it yerself';).

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Sat Feb 26, 2011 10:36 am

[quote="JPG40504"]That surprises me! They call themselves machinists? Guess I be spoiled!

Good Luck 'doing it yerself']

Yeah I kind of agree, .001 accuracy in metal work is to be expected. But I also know you have to pay for it.

About three summers ago I found out a serious design flaw in my Toro/Wheel Horse lawn tractor. They used steel self tapping bolts to thread into the aluminum or magnesium blade spindles. They bolted though the steel deck into the blade spindles. Needless to say to with the moisture of lawn mowing and the dis similar metals created a weld on the bolts. To remove the bolts was impossible. The broke before they even thought of turning out.

I then tried nearly everything I could think of to drill, extract or otherwise get them out. Nothing worked. I went to machine shop to get them drilled and retapped. The price? About $30 more than two new blade spindles costs.

Guess what I got the new blade spindles and installed them just like the factory! WHAT WAS I THINKING? I should have done one of two things; drilled different hole in the old spindles and used through bolts and nuts or I should have used a smaller diameter bold in the new spindles and used nuts. WHY I DIDN'T I DON'T KNOW BUT I OFTEN FALL ASLEEP THINKING HOW COULD YOU HAVE BEEN SO STUPID!!!!

In my defense I did use anticease on the bolts but since they were self tapping I should have backed them out applied the anti cease then reinstalled them and I didn't. AUGH!:eek:

I read what I posted and realized I forgot where I was going with this story. The machine shop said they could drill out the bolts for next to nothing. But if I wanted them drilled out exactly was they originally machined the setup cost would end up being $30 more than new ones. So yes machine shops do work in .001 but it costs to get that precision.