Crafters Station

Forum for Maintenance and Repair topics. Feel free to ask questions or contribute.

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dusty
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Post by dusty »

damagi wrote:I just realized what you meant by this. There are two power switches on opposite sides. Whichever one you use will cause the motor to spin towards you. That makes sense.

Its definitely goofy that the speed control handle is on the "back" when in "saw" mode.



Thats no big deal. I have my powerstation working just fine. If its just a matter of adding a relay/switch to get reversing on my powerstation then I might as well try. I have a Mark V motor in the other thread that I am working on, but that is for a seperate setup.

It is not quit that simple. There are a couple extra wires required in the power cable. Multi conductor cable is readily available OR individual wires could be used either in addition to or in lieu of the normal cable.

You could also abandon the existing switch and build your own switch box so that you could do away with the relay (which I strongly suspect as the weak link).

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"Making Sawdust Safely"
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:It is not quit that simple. There are a couple extra wires required in the power cable. Multi conductor cable is readily available OR individual wires could be used either in addition to or in lieu of the normal cable.

You could also abandon the existing switch and build your own switch box so that you could do away with the relay (which I strongly suspect as the weak link).

[ATTACH]12027[/ATTACH]
Is it correct to conclude the yellow 'plug' on the left side of the pix above is an indicator that the motor is not 'permanently lubricated with ball bearings, but rather with sleeve bearings?
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

JPG40504 wrote:Is it correct to conclude the yellow 'plug' on the left side of the pix above is an indicator that the motor is not 'permanently lubricated with ball bearings, but rather with sleeve bearings?

Copied from post #19:

Clean the motor and OIL it. YES -- OIL it. This motor is different than other Shopsmith motors.

I would that means bushings rather than bearings.:rolleyes:
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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B-RAD
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Post by B-RAD »

Dusty,

I had started this thread about my crafters station. Since my last posts life has gotten in the way of woodworking. I am now just getting back to working on my C.S and having a start up problem on the accessory side only. Could it just be a relay or dirty contacts? The motor runs great in saw mode.

Thanks
Brad
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

breya wrote:Dusty,

I had started this thread about my crafters station. Since my last posts life has gotten in the way of woodworking. I am now just getting back to working on my C.S and having a start up problem on the accessory side only. Could it just be a relay or dirty contacts? The motor runs great in saw mode.

Thanks
Brad

Yes, it could be a relay and it could be as simple as a loose connection or dirty contacts.

I will go out on a limb here and say that the problem is electrical and not mechanical with one possible exception. The on/off switch for accessories could be bad or going bad.

If I had to trouble shoot this, the first thing I would do is eliminate the motor as the cause. Bring it out on the work bench and run it 1) first in one direction and 2) then in the other direction. Direction of rotation can be reversed by switching (exchanging) positions of the red and blue wires (in the motor). Be careful if you pull these wires off the lugs. I broke a lug in the motor when I did it. I really do not believe the problem could be the motor.

I would also open the CS up so that you can see all of the wiring (especially the accessories switch and the the relay) and make certain that there are no loose connection. Possibly this should be done first.

Lastly, I would pull the the relay, remove the plastic cover and clean (or file) the relay contacts. Pay particular attention to contacts #4 and #6.

Attached are some documents that may help. I think these have already been posted but it is easier to do it again than find the originals. Oh for a better search tool.

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Corrected Drawing (Deenergized).jpg
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Corrected Drawing (Energized).jpg
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R55-11A20-120F.pdf
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B-RAD
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Post by B-RAD »

Dusty,

Thank you for the info.. I will open it up and check the wiring and relay. I know it is not the switch ,as I have left the switch on and toggled my breaker. Sometimes it would run and other times it would trip the breaker.

Brad
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

breya wrote:Dusty,

Thank you for the info.. I will open it up and check the wiring and relay. I know it is not the switch ,as I have left the switch on and toggled my breaker. Sometimes it would run and other times it would trip the breaker.

Brad
If the switch contact was corroded (pitted) it could act as you describe. A pitted contact is a high resistance contact and trying to run the motor through that contact would cause the circuit breaker to trip.

In my opinion, the switch is not eliminated by what you did.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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