DIY Shopsmith accessory - table saw?

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damagi
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Post by damagi »

billmayo wrote:At my Labor Day Home Show, I have a "jerk" loudly proclaim that only a tilt arbor table was worth buying and Shopsmith would never have or could be adapted for one. So, I am almost done with my 10" tilt arbor fixed table 510 table saw. It mounts like the thickness planer (uses the same clamps). I am using a auxiliary shaft in place of the motor and with a pulley on the quill shaft (Link belts). I made an adapter plate to mount the casing and tilt arbor assembly to the 510 main table. The 510 table lines up with the 510 extension tables and looks like a factory unit. I plan to permanmently mount this setup on a shorter Shopsmith for use in my shop.

The only major problem is this unit weights around 80 pds so I need help to mount/unmount it on the way tubes. I plan to display it in my booth at future Home Shows. The complete tilt arbor part is cast iron and very well built (from a Rigid TS2424). I hope to switch from belts to a flexible type drive system in the future.

I have no pictures of the finished unit yet as I disassemblied it for painting and have not reassembled it at this time. Too many other projects on-going at this time.
:)

Way to come through on this one...you were thinking just like me. I too have the thickness planer and looked at it the same way. I figured weight would be a concern. I also figured thet the 510 might match the rails on some of these units directly, or if not it would be a straightforward swapout.

Would love to see some photos when you do get a chance
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup

JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw

-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

billmayo wrote:At my Labor Day Home Show, I have a "jerk" loudly proclaim that only a tilt arbor table was worth buying and Shopsmith would never have or could be adapted for one. So, I am almost done with my 10" tilt arbor fixed table 510 table saw. It mounts like the thickness planer (uses the same clamps). I am using a auxiliary shaft in place of the motor and with a pulley on the quill shaft (Link belts). I made an adapter plate to mount the casing and tilt arbor assembly to the 510 main table. The 510 table lines up with the 510 extension tables and looks like a factory unit. I plan to permanmently mount this setup on a shorter Shopsmith for use in my shop.

The only major problem is this unit weights around 80 pds so I need help to mount/unmount it on the way tubes. I plan to display it in my booth at future Home Shows. The complete tilt arbor part is cast iron and very well built (from a Rigid TS2424). I hope to switch from belts to a flexible type drive system in the future.

I have no pictures of the finished unit yet as I disassemblied it for painting and have not reassembled it at this time. Too many other projects on-going at this time.
Bill
If Sawstop technology ever becomes a requirement that may be the only way Shopsmith could continue to offer the saw option.

I have often wondered why Shopsmith didn't explore the SPT option to offer a tilting arbor table saw. Sounds like you got one. I would patent it quick!

I don't know how you are planing to do the flexible shaft idea but years ago Sears had a table saw that used flexible shaft (large speedometer cable). I'm told it was a night mare waiting to happen. Biggest problem was cable wind up/twist and lost of power.

A drive shaft with u joints arrangement would be really great.
Ed in Tampa
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damagi
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Post by damagi »

dusty wrote:This discussion always amuses me. If you don't like the tilt feature of the Shopsmith, just don't use it. If you need a bevel cut, do it somewhere else or some other way.

Just how often do you need the table tilted? I can think of only one person on this forum who can rightly say he uses it (needs it) frequently.

The last time I tilted the table was when I built the last version of the outfeed table - maybe six months ago.
I agree that its not a huge deal, but I'm also an engineer by trade...so I'm going to think about these problems and how they could be solved by looking at the component parts. If you believe that the overall system has significant value (small space, precision, single powerful variable speed motor, etc) then its natural to consider how to keep all of that while solving one of the perceivred "problems". A number of members on this forum have a tilting arbor saw, then use the shopsmith as a 4-in-1 plus SPTs.

Its simply a question of "given a fixed motor and table, how can I tilt the arbor to mitigate the concerns.
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup

JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw

-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

damagi wrote:I agree that its not a huge deal, but I'm also an engineer by trade...so I'm going to think about these problems and how they could be solved by looking at the component parts. If you believe that the overall system has significant value (small space, precision, single powerful variable speed motor, etc) then its natural to consider how to keep all of that while solving one of the perceivred "problems". A number of members on this forum have a tilting arbor saw, then use the shopsmith as a 4-in-1 plus SPTs.

Its simply a question of "given a fixed motor and table, how can I tilt the arbor to mitigate the concerns.
It is still a 5 in 1 just don't tilt the table in the saw mode.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

damagi wrote: . . .
Its simply a question of "given a fixed motor and table, how can I tilt the arbor to mitigate the concerns.

Simple indeed!:D Merely create an angle adjustable platform that mounts on the table in the miter gauge slots so as to position the workpiece at an angle to the blade. Reference Shipwrights method of cutting a 'perfect' bevel for corner joints on his 'spilled' beverage curio table!;)

i.e. Tilt the workpiece, not the table nor the arbor!:rolleyes: Methinks that uses the last available 'simple' option!

BTW That moves the long workpiece hitting the floor problem to its hitting the ceiling!:(
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damagi
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Post by damagi »

[quote="JPG40504"]Simple indeed!:D Merely create an angle adjustable platform that mounts on the table in the miter gauge slots so as to position the workpiece at an angle to the blade. Reference Shipwrights method of cutting a 'perfect' bevel for corner joints on his 'spilled' beverage curio table!]

I am well aware of the other mitigations. This is an engineering thought exercise, not a mitigation exercise. With the workpiece tiled you are always fighting gravity. With a flat workpiece, fixed motor, and tilting blade arbor you are just fighting engineering
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup

JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw

-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
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cincinnati
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Post by cincinnati »

I never thought the tilting table was any problem. I learned woodworking on my Shopsmith. I think it has to do more with what one is use to using.

You often hear "Try cutting miters on the ends of an 8ft 2x4" with a Shopsmith.
That may be true but who cuts mites on the end of 8' stick of wood with any table saw. One would use a miter saw for that.

I own a JET cabinet saw. I use my Shopsmith as a Dado saw.

I think any kind of tilting arbor saw that would mount on the Shopsmith would cost more to manufacture than a self contained unit. You could just buy a Bosch job saw and mount it on the way tube.
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anmius
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Post by anmius »

cincinnati wrote:I never thought the tilting table was any problem. I learned woodworking on my Shopsmith. I think it has to do more with what one is use to using.

You often hear "Try cutting miters on the ends of an 8ft 2x4" with a Shopsmith.
That may be true but who cuts mites on the end of 8' stick of wood with any table saw. One would use a miter saw for that.
I totally agree. I certainly wouldn't use my Shopsmith to cut a 90 degree cut on a 2x4 of any length. That is why miter saws (or chop saws, sliding compound miter saw, radial arm saw etc.) were invented. Much more accurate and safer!
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

cincinnati wrote:I never thought the tilting table was any problem. I learned woodworking on my Shopsmith. I think it has to do more with what one is use to using.

You often hear "Try cutting miters on the ends of an 8ft 2x4" with a Shopsmith.
That may be true but who cuts mites on the end of 8' stick of wood with any table saw. One would use a miter saw for that.

I own a JET cabinet saw. I use my Shopsmith as a Dado saw.

I think any kind of tilting arbor saw that would mount on the Shopsmith would cost more to manufacture than a self contained unit. You could just buy a Bosch job saw and mount it on the way tube.



I had wondered about having a miter saw stand that instead of sitting there using floor space would attach to a SS with long formed mount arms. It would drop down behind and a little under the Shopsmith then when needed you would just lower the main table and reach over and pull the miter saw up and into position above the main table where you could use a couple of extension tables at the ends for work piece support. Then just release a couple of latches and lower it back down behind and under the SS. Maybe made with a couple of lift cylinders to assist lifting and to avoid damage if dropped while raising and lowering.

Right now I use my Delta miter saw mounted on a small wood table that is attached to an extra set of SS extension table post. I either use it dropped in one end or the other of one of the SS's or clamped by the post in a B&D Workmate if not working in the shop.
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Post by damagi »

robinson46176 wrote:I had wondered about having a miter saw stand that instead of sitting there using floor space would attach to a SS with long formed mount arms. It would drop down behind and a little under the Shopsmith then when needed you would just lower the main table and reach over and pull the miter saw up and into position above the main table where you could use a couple of extension tables at the ends for work piece support. Then just release a couple of latches and lower it back down behind and under the SS. Maybe made with a couple of lift cylinders to assist lifting and to avoid damage if dropped while raising and lowering.

Right now I use my Delta miter saw mounted on a small wood table that is attached to an extra set of SS extension table post. I either use it dropped in one end or the other of one of the SS's or clamped by the post in a B&D Workmate if not working in the shop.
Ah, now this is another great idea. Dropping a chop saw on would let you use the table system for support...I like it.
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup

JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw

-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
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