Replacement bandsaw blades

[fiatben]

I really do try to use the search feature and find answers as I'm fairly confident that any question I might have has been asked, and answered, before on this forum.

The SS bandsaw takes a 72" blade. There are other manufacturers out there who make a 71-3/4 and 72-7/16" blades. My question is this; is there enough adjustment in the SS to accomodate these slightly offsized blades?

I understand that the tensioning gauge would doubtless become meaningless.

Also, similarly, what has been anyone's experience with buying coils of blade and doing their own welding?

[nuhobby]

[quote="fiatben"]I really do try to use the search feature and find answers as I'm fairly confident that any question I might have has been asked, and answered, before on this forum.

The SS bandsaw takes a 72" blade. There are other manufacturers out there who make a 71-3/4 and 72-7/16" blades. My question is this]

I have used a 71-3/4" blade OK. And, looking at things, I'm not convinced the tension gage suffers from this. The tension gage really does read tension, rather than blade-length, I think.

[beeg]

You can get a 72"er here.

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/swedish-silicon-steel-prices/

[charlese]

I have used a 71-3/4" blade OK. And, looking at things, I'm not convinced the tension gage suffers from this. The tension gage really does read tension, rather than blade-length, I think.

That's also what I think, Chris!

BTW, while waiting for a new supply of bandsaw blades from Shopsmith, tried my hand a sharpening a 1/4" blade. Surprised me! The effort paid off. It is an easy operation, but fairly tedious! 432 teeth!
Instead of clamping the blade in a wood vice jig, I gave each tooth three passes with a file while on the saw. Marked the first tooth with a permanent marker so I could tell when it was done.

[pennview]

I've used 71 3/4", 72" and 72 5/8" long blades on the Shopsmith bandsaw. I don't find any problem fitting and tensioning the 71 3/4" blades, but on the 72 5/8" blades I don't use blades wider than 1/4" because the tensioning spring bottoms out too soon for adequate tension to be applied on the wider blades.

[fiatben]

I appreciate the input recieved so far. I'm sure more will follow.

My '55 Greenie came with a 1/4" and 1/2" blades. I recently did like Charlese and made an attempt to sharpen the 1/2" since it was so dull it burned wood. I didn't even try to be real exacting in my efforts, but it made a huge improvement in the blade's cutting. I'd be interested in hearing from anyone about their experiences in sharpening and soldering their own blades, and any kind of jig or rig that made it easier.

[tdubnik]

I appreciate the input recieved so far. I'm sure more will follow.

My '55 Greenie came with a 1/4" and 1/2" blades. I recently did like Charlese and made an attempt to sharpen the 1/2" since it was so dull it burned wood. I didn't even try to be real exacting in my efforts, but it made a huge improvement in the blade's cutting. I'd be interested in hearing from anyone about their experiences in sharpening and soldering their own blades, and any kind of jig or rig that made it easier.

I have a set up similar to thisthat I have used to make bands from coil stock. The silver solder makes a strong joint that usually outlasts the blade. Some years ago I was doing bandsaw work and selling items wholesale to a pottery. I was putting in long hours at the bandsaw and went through blades pretty quickly. Buying pre-made bands was costly and I switched to coil stock and making my own.

The key is grinding a good scarf joint and heating the metal and not the solder for a strong joint. You also need some kind of vise the hold everything square while you do this. The above kit should have everything you need.

[dusty]

I have a set up similar to thisthat I have used to make bands from coil stock. The silver solder makes a strong joint that usually outlasts the blade. Some years ago I was doing bandsaw work and selling items wholesale to a pottery. I was putting in long hours at the bandsaw and went through blades pretty quickly. Buying pre-made bands was costly and I switched to coil stock and making my own.

The key is grinding a good scarf joint and heating the metal and not the solder for a strong joint. You also need some kind of vise the hold everything square while you do this. The above kit should have everything you need.

I have attempted silver soldering. Operative word - "attempted".

What did you use for your heat source?

I was NASA Certified but not for silver solder. I could have gone back for additional training but "Who Needs It". Solder is Solder - right? NO.

[tdubnik]

I have attempted silver soldering. Operative word - "attempted".

What did you use for your heat source?

I was NASA Certified but not for silver solder. I could have gone back for additional training but "Who Needs It". Solder is Solder - right? NO.

I just used a regular propane torch. When I first tried soldering blades I had a few failures but quickly learned a technique that worked for me. The key for me was grinding a good scarf joint and then heating the blade on either side of the joint until the solder melted and flowed. Let it cool and then smooth the joint. I used a sanding sleeve on a Dremel tool for this. Once I got it down the joint always outlasted the life of the blade.

[pennview]

tdubnik, thanks for the link to Woodcraft's soldering kit. The video makes it look so easy to repair or make blades from coiled blade stock.

I'm wondering if anyone has soldered bandsaw blades using the type of silver solder that has replaced the lead/tin solder used in copper water pipe/tubing applications? I'm not interested in testing such an application as I've experienced a bandsaw blade breaking some years back and it was a bit unsettling as I recall. If you hear a ticking sound as the blade rotates past the bandsaw's guide blocks, you might want to inspect the blade for cracks or a failing splice joint as this may be a warning sign of something about to happen.