Bandsaw Wheel Balance

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Mar 16, 2011 3:24 pm

In this month's issue of Wood Magazine there is an article titled "Amp Up Your Bandsaw".

There was one part of the article that caught my attention. Wheel Balance - the articles describes a method for checking wheel balance and a method for improving balance if so needed.

Basically, the test involves spinning each of the wheels (by hand) and recording where the wheel stops. The article recommends five spins for each wheel. I did ten (10) spins for each wheel (upper and lower) and (in my opinion) found no indication of a balance problem. If the wheels are out of balance the point at which they stop will be clustered.

I'll leave the decision to you.

The blue marks on each of the wheels were made the the bottom of the wheel each time the wheel was spun.

[ATTACH]12282[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]12283[/ATTACH]

The wheels depicted here are not in the same position as when the wheel was marked.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Wed Mar 16, 2011 3:43 pm

Dusty
Interesting there are 6 pie wedge shaped openings on each wheel.
It you number them from the top going clockwise 1-6 in this picture wedge number 1 on both the upper and lower wheel is not maked at all.

Now what is significant about upper right or old wedge number 1?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Mar 16, 2011 4:16 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:Dusty
Interesting there are 6 pie wedge shaped openings on each wheel.
It you number them from the top going clockwise 1-6 in this picture wedge number 1 on both the upper and lower wheel is not maked at all.

Now what is significant about upper right or old wedge number 1?

I do not think too much. The mark count +- 90 degrees from the center of the segment #1 is equal(at least very nearly so).

It is possible that segment tends to be light, but not much!

Not sure we be checking wheel balance so much as bearing drag.

I would not be concerned with wheel balance with those 'results'.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Mar 16, 2011 4:48 pm

Interesting observation, Ed in Tampa. I don't know what it might mean. Maybe I should do another ten (10) to see if the void spot remains void.

Let me repeat, I did this because of the article in Wood Magazine coupled with my natural curiosity. I have NO unusual problems with either of my bandsaws.

I say no unusual problems...because I have become accustomed to the noise of the bearings. Mine do (and have always) squealed a bit from time to time. The only time they run really quiet is for a week or two right after brand new bearings. I quit doing that.

When the bearings get really loud, I oil or wax the outer surface of the offending bearings.

I think the noise is metal to metal as the bandsaw blade slides past a bearing that is not spinning fast enough.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Mar 16, 2011 6:05 pm

I did the same test again on the other bandsaw. What I did notice is that my own (older) bandsaw is the much quieter of the two. I hardly ever (if ever) run both on the same day to get this sort of relative comparison.

But that is a different story.

The Wheel Balance Test on My Bandsaw.

[ATTACH]12284[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]12285[/ATTACH]

Ed in Tampa: Note that there is a pie wedge on each of these wheels that is void also.

RobertTaylor · Post by **RobertTaylor** » Wed Mar 16, 2011 6:42 pm

i can hardly believe that i am the one to point out that shopsmith wheels are already balanced before assembly. the marks are probably on the other side of your wheels.

BigSky · Post by **BigSky** » Wed Mar 16, 2011 7:09 pm

bettyt44720 wrote:i can hardly believe that i am the one to point out that shopsmith wheels are already balanced before assembly. the marks are probably on the other side of your wheels.

I don't know why you would find that hard to believe. We all come to this forum with something to offer - even if it is nothing but questions.

Would you believe me if I told you that there are no holes drilled in mine.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Mar 16, 2011 7:42 pm

Well I'll be. There are more holes drilled in two of my wheels than one would expect in a block of Swiss Cheese.

One wheel had twenty two dimples drilled on the back side; almost three pie wedges of holes. The other wheel had fewer but not by much.

Now what are the odds on this.

I spun both wheels in that bandsaw three times. I drew a blue line on the front side of the wheels marking where the dimples had been drilled. All three times, both wheels - the blue line ended up at the top of the wheel. Not exactly at the top but definitely nearer the top than the bottom.

Thank you, Bob. I learn something new here every day!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Mar 16, 2011 10:31 pm

dusty wrote:I did the same test again on the other bandsaw. What I did notice is that my own (older) bandsaw is the much quieter of the two. I hardly ever (if ever) run both on the same day to get this sort of relative comparison.

But that is a different story.

The Wheel Balance Test on My Bandsaw.

[ATTACH]12284[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]12285[/ATTACH]

Ed in Tampa: Note that there is a pie wedge on each of these wheels that is void also.

And 5 marks +- 90 degrees from the 'blank' segment again.

Where's the 'dimples' relative to the 'blank' segment?

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Wed Mar 16, 2011 11:07 pm

I am finding the upper bandsaw wheel can be bent when someone does the bending of the upper arm. This is for tracking of the bandsaw blade on it by pushing and pulling on the upper bandsaw wheel.

I have been pulling the upper bandsaw wheel off and using a pipe that fits the wheel axle to bend/tilt the upper wheel arm and axle. I made a jig that somewhat helps me straighten the upper bandsaw wheel to where the blade tracks (little side to side movement) on the wheel tire now.

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