Lost T slot washer

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hfmann
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Post by hfmann »

So far so good. He had the screw. The washers are thinner, but two of them are perfect. Now I'm going to try to put a countersink in one of them to accomodate the screw head. We'll see what happens.

Total cost so far - 36 cents, including tax, not including gasoline for 6 miles round trip.

(Yes, I took the miter bar with me. Good thing too.)
hfmann
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Post by hfmann »

dusty wrote:Put Flats on the Sides? Why? Where do you find that this might be useful other than on the Belt Sander Table?
I'm guessing that's so you could use that in any track or slot that does't allow for the "wings" of the washer sticking out beyond the bar sides. Seems like a good idea even though I don't think I have anything right now where that is need.

Cheers.

Hal
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

That is my point, Hal. The only place that I am inclined to use the miter gauge that does not facilitate the washer is the table on the Belt Sander and it is only about 8" long.

It is a neat idea but (for me) has no utility since the miter gauge can not be used on any non-Shopsmith equipment because of bar width.

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:That is my point, Hal. The only place that I am inclined to use the miter gauge that does not facilitate the washer is the table on the Belt Sander and it is only about 8" long.

It is a neat idea but (for me) has no utility since the miter gauge can not be used on any non-Shopsmith equipment because of bar width.

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Point well made Dusty! But some of us have old ancient versions of things like Mark 5 worktable, CI bandsaw tables and home made jigs that were created b4 the newer slots were created. As a result I have removed the washer from the gauge until I get the 510 on line. Since the 510 table has no way to extend the infeed end of the slot, I predict I will need it for wider crosscutting.:mad:

The double d shaped washer was a suggestion for anyone having to use a single miter gauge on both old and newer slots.;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

[quote="JPG40504"]Point well made Dusty! But some of us have old ancient versions of things like Mark 5 worktable, CI bandsaw tables and home made jigs that were created b4 the newer slots were created. As a result I have removed the washer from the gauge until I get the 510 on line. Since the 510 table has no way to extend the infeed end of the slot, I predict I will need it for wider crosscutting.:mad:

The double d shaped washer was a suggestion for anyone having to use a single miter gauge on both old and newer slots.]Excuse Me. I think I would take the washer off completely so that my miter gauge was interchangeable. What is a CI bandsaw?
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kd6vpe
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Post by kd6vpe »

Dusty,
I think it was Reible who had the idea of grinding the washer in question. I did it to use with my cast iron bandsaw table. I have found it to be a time saver and I don't have to worry about loosing the washer or screw in the shop. I also don't need it on the belt sander. FYI hope this explains the modification.
SS 500 upgraded to 510; SS bandsaw; SS jointer
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lathe duplicatior, shaper fence and shapers; SS Belt
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Post by charlese »

hfmann wrote:I knew the parts from SS were inexpensive, it's the dang shipping cost that makes me hope to find a local source.

Thanks guys.

Hal

To share my experiences - I have worn one of those washers down so much that the miter gauge shaft was tilting upward enough to make it uncomfortable for me. I don't know how the metal washer wore down from the top, while the inside of the aluminum table slot has not worn noticeably. Couldn't turn the washer upside down because of the countersunk hole.

Could not find an appropriate washer or screw locally, so included those items into a later parts order. That way shipping cost was negligible. The new washer and screw brought the gauge back to normal action.
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:Excuse Me. I think I would take the washer off completely so that my miter gauge was interchangeable. What is a CI bandsaw?
Without the truncated washer, the tslot becomes non-functional. The intent is to allow switching over by loosening the screw and rotating it and thus keep the parts 'attached'.

CI = cast iron table.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
BigSky
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Post by BigSky »

JPG40504 wrote:Without the truncated washer, the tslot becomes non-functional. The intent is to allow switching over by loosening the screw and rotating it and thus keep the parts 'attached'.
CI = cast iron table.
An indoctrination Please. What makes the t-slot feature so very valuable. Most tables saw that I have used don't have a t-slot either.
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ryanbp01
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Post by ryanbp01 »

It gives a space to tighten T-brackets on and also prevents the miter guage from falling/sliping out at an angle.

I'm going to put a plug in for the Shopsmith Help Kit. It has all the washers, set screws, etc. to replace those which come up missing or worn other goodies to life make your woodworking easier. It is well worth the money.

BPR
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