caster wheel disassembly
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caster wheel disassembly
How do I get the pin out of the wheel assembly? The are way stuck and rusted. I wanted to take it apart and clean it up but I can't get the wheel assembly apart. Mark V 500
Thanks
Thanks
- JPG
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These can be quite stubborn to disassemble when badly rusted. The only thing holding them together are the roll pins in the smaller tie rod at each end. Driving the roll pin out of the crank hub is sometimes more difficult. Lots of penetrating oil and careful(but forceful) driving with pin punch will get them out.
Once disassembled, reassembly can be like a chinese puzzle! The end castings are the only parts that vary(l/r). All shafts, rods, cams are identical(except some older versions which have camshaft ' l/r pairs'. However they are assembled/oriented differently to form a l/r pair.
Caveat: The tie rods are drilled at initial assembly and must be matched back correctly. I recommend marking them at disassembly. Small dimples on each end and each casting will do. 1 dimple, 2 dimples, 3 dimples, 0 dimples will uniquely mark them. Lightly struck center punch will create dimples.
I recommend taking a pix of each one b4 taking them apart(one at a time can reduce later confusion!).
Keep in mind the cams will go on the shaft two ways, the crank two ways(and rotated on the shaft two ways). That variability is what makes it possible to make 'l/r pair') from common parts. If you have an older version, the crank shaft can be 'reversed' end for end.
Good Luck:D
Once disassembled, reassembly can be like a chinese puzzle! The end castings are the only parts that vary(l/r). All shafts, rods, cams are identical(except some older versions which have camshaft ' l/r pairs'. However they are assembled/oriented differently to form a l/r pair.
Caveat: The tie rods are drilled at initial assembly and must be matched back correctly. I recommend marking them at disassembly. Small dimples on each end and each casting will do. 1 dimple, 2 dimples, 3 dimples, 0 dimples will uniquely mark them. Lightly struck center punch will create dimples.
I recommend taking a pix of each one b4 taking them apart(one at a time can reduce later confusion!).
Keep in mind the cams will go on the shaft two ways, the crank two ways(and rotated on the shaft two ways). That variability is what makes it possible to make 'l/r pair') from common parts. If you have an older version, the crank shaft can be 'reversed' end for end.
Good Luck:D
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
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I hope he isn't referring to the wheel axle rivet!:D It doesn't 'come out'!!!:eek:SDSSmith wrote:Which pin are you trying to get out?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Sure it does. There have been a number of discussions about upgrading the wheels. But I don't think that is the one russaw is after. He could mean the caster pin from the cylinder that rides the cam, or getting the cylinder out of the end casting or ????JPG40504 wrote:I hope he isn't referring to the wheel axle rivet!:D It doesn't 'come out'!!!:eek:
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
- JPG
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
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SDSSmith wrote:Sure it does. There have been a number of discussions about upgrading the wheels. But I don't think that is the one russaw is after. He could mean the caster pin from the cylinder that rides the cam, or getting the cylinder out of the end casting or ????
Drilled out, but not 'punched' out!]
I overlooked the cam pins. Lately they have set screws.
I take ???? to mean foot pedal a.k.a. crank!:D Cannot think of anything else!
P.S. He may be referring to getting the casters out of the cams! RUSSAW - They pull out.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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paulmcohen
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russsaw wrote:How do I get the pin out of the wheel assembly? The are way stuck and rusted. I wanted to take it apart and clean it up but I can't get the wheel assembly apart. Mark V 500
Thanks
If you are talking about the wheel rivet, just drill out out and throw away everything except the frame. Go on eBay and purchase high quality wheels (Grizzle sells them for ~$3.00 each). There is another thread with detailed instructions and part numbers.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
I attached a picture to show what I was talking about. These are the two pins I am trying to remove, because as I understand it, they hold the entire thing together.
right? I guess I need to go buy a punch set. I am not really sure though yet.
I am having a similar problem trying to get a pin out of the bass[ATTACH]12361[/ATTACH]
right? I guess I need to go buy a punch set. I am not really sure though yet.
I am having a similar problem trying to get a pin out of the bass[ATTACH]12361[/ATTACH]
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- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
russsaw wrote:I attached a picture to show what I was talking about. These are the two pins I am trying to remove, because as I understand it, they hold the entire thing together.
right? I guess I need to go buy a punch set. I am not really sure though yet.
I am having a similar problem trying to get a pin out of the bass
The pin holes are 5/32". I usually start with a 5/32 pin punch if it will drop down into the hole at one end or the other. A 1/8" pin punch will drive them through once started. My 5/32" pin punch flares out after about 3/4" from the end so I have to switch when removing the foot pedal.
Are you referring to the one that retains the hinge pin? It needs to be driven IN all the way. It will fall out a hole on the inside.
A key to success is having the parts setting on a immovable object when tapping the pin punch with a bp hammer. Lotsa penetrating oil also.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange