Toy logs - like Lincoln Logs
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Toy logs - like Lincoln Logs
I've been spending a lot of time lately making toys - mostly cars and trucks - but also have a big need to get rid of many cutoffs and strips. Found plans for toy log houses in Hands-online right here. Here's a two day effort at using narrow oak strips. They must be at least 3/4"X3/4".
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Not knowing how many of each size log is needed, this is what I came up with for the first run. Over the years, I had forgotten the 3 & 4 notch logs can also be that length with only two end notches. Now I'll make some more logs and make the rafters and roof boards.
[ATTACH]12474[/ATTACH]
Not knowing how many of each size log is needed, this is what I came up with for the first run. Over the years, I had forgotten the 3 & 4 notch logs can also be that length with only two end notches. Now I'll make some more logs and make the rafters and roof boards.
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Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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I gotta ask! Notches cut before or after 'rounding'?charlese wrote:I've been spending a lot of time lately making toys - mostly cars and trucks - but also have a big need to get rid of many cutoffs and strips. Found plans for toy log houses in Hands-online right here. Here's a two day effort at using narrow oak strips. They must be at least 3/4"X3/4".
[ATTACH]12474[/ATTACH]
Not knowing how many of each size log is needed, this is what I came up with for the first run. Over the years, I had forgotten the 3 & 4 notch logs can also be that length with only two end notches. Now I'll make some more logs and make the rafters and roof boards.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I saw that
I ran across those plans and it's on my to-do list. Those look GREAT!! I fondly remember lincoln logs from my own childhood and look forward to giving that same fun memory to my grandsons soon.
'55 Greenie #292284 (Mar-55), '89 SS 510 #020989, Mark VII #408551 (sold 10/14/12), SS Band Saw, (SS 500 #36063 (May-79) now gone to son-in-law as of 11-11), Magna bandsaw, Magna jointer 16185 (May-54), Magna belt sander SS28712 (Dec-82), Magna jigsaw SS4397 (Dec-78), SS biscuit joiner, Zyliss (knockoff) vise, 20+ hand planes, 60s Craftsman tablesaw, CarbaTec mini-lathe, and the usual pile of tools. Hermit of the Hills Woodworks, a hillbilly in the foothills of the Ozarks, scraping by.
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Now you got me thinking. First I found this:
http://www.shopsmithhandson.com/archive ... nglogs.htm
From Shopsmith. But it uses a router to make the logs. I thought you would turn them on the lathe.
Yours look great. Please share.
http://www.shopsmithhandson.com/archive ... nglogs.htm
From Shopsmith. But it uses a router to make the logs. I thought you would turn them on the lathe.
Yours look great. Please share.
Gary Kalyn
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
Wow! didn't guess the logs would arose interest.
kalynzoo has posted the very plans I used. Thanks, Gary!:) (don't forget to look at the other pages of the plans. "Logs" and "Roof & Chimney")
The notches (dados) are cut either from an already sized 3/4 X3/4 or, like the plans suggest, from a wider board prior to sizing. Any length is O.K.
I happened to have the same miter gauge extension suggested in the plans. I used masking tape on the extension to mark off 3" intervals. This gives the proper spacing (2 1/4"+3/4"). Setting the stop block on each 3" mark, I sawed dadoes on both sides of the wood.
Longer pieces present a chance to make closer notches. These will be used to make the many "one notch" logs. At first, I was puzzled by - "How long should the scrap be prior to dadoing?" The answer soon came clear. Long enough so there is plenty of wood to hold firmly onto the miter gauge. The longest 3/4" piece was 5 1/2ft. This piece had a large un-dadoed piece in the middle. (this center was turned into many single notched logs) (Oh yeah! could have cross cut off the middle, but didn't want to change out of the dado blade.)
There was always scrap pieces left on the ends of my scrap after dadoing. This is where I cut a lot of the smallest logs. Yes! I had scrap left from my scrap, even after cutting the one notchers.
Then came the crosscutting to length. 3/8" was left on the end of each chosen notch.
Frankly, I was surprised (shouldn't have been) when a 1/2" roundover bit produced round logs. Actually mine have a narrow 1/8" flat on the top and the bottom. I had anticipated square logs with rounded edges. Guess you can get this by using a 1/4" roundover.
When routing, I used a feather board to press vertically, while feeling secure in using fingers to hold the log to the fence and push it through. The dados/notches give a good solid place to push. However, another feather board would hold the board up to the fence and is advisable. A squared edge of the 3/4" X3/4" was always up against the table and the fence. The only exception was the last 1/2" of the board. The routing was easier than expected.
Unfortunately, I cut most of the dadoes at the 3" interval. This made the longer logs all have un-used notches along the back and sides of a cabin. I'm now in the process of making the long logs without the center notches.
Still have to do the "half logs". They will fit on the bottom and top rows.
Haven't yet decided if I'll make the type of roof rafters shown in the plans. I think I remember rafters having notches to fit over half logs and another notch to support the bottom roof plank.
I'll try to remember to take photos of the process on the added logs and roof.
kalynzoo has posted the very plans I used. Thanks, Gary!:) (don't forget to look at the other pages of the plans. "Logs" and "Roof & Chimney")
The notches (dados) are cut either from an already sized 3/4 X3/4 or, like the plans suggest, from a wider board prior to sizing. Any length is O.K.
I happened to have the same miter gauge extension suggested in the plans. I used masking tape on the extension to mark off 3" intervals. This gives the proper spacing (2 1/4"+3/4"). Setting the stop block on each 3" mark, I sawed dadoes on both sides of the wood.
Longer pieces present a chance to make closer notches. These will be used to make the many "one notch" logs. At first, I was puzzled by - "How long should the scrap be prior to dadoing?" The answer soon came clear. Long enough so there is plenty of wood to hold firmly onto the miter gauge. The longest 3/4" piece was 5 1/2ft. This piece had a large un-dadoed piece in the middle. (this center was turned into many single notched logs) (Oh yeah! could have cross cut off the middle, but didn't want to change out of the dado blade.)
There was always scrap pieces left on the ends of my scrap after dadoing. This is where I cut a lot of the smallest logs. Yes! I had scrap left from my scrap, even after cutting the one notchers.
Then came the crosscutting to length. 3/8" was left on the end of each chosen notch.
Frankly, I was surprised (shouldn't have been) when a 1/2" roundover bit produced round logs. Actually mine have a narrow 1/8" flat on the top and the bottom. I had anticipated square logs with rounded edges. Guess you can get this by using a 1/4" roundover.
When routing, I used a feather board to press vertically, while feeling secure in using fingers to hold the log to the fence and push it through. The dados/notches give a good solid place to push. However, another feather board would hold the board up to the fence and is advisable. A squared edge of the 3/4" X3/4" was always up against the table and the fence. The only exception was the last 1/2" of the board. The routing was easier than expected.
Unfortunately, I cut most of the dadoes at the 3" interval. This made the longer logs all have un-used notches along the back and sides of a cabin. I'm now in the process of making the long logs without the center notches.
Still have to do the "half logs". They will fit on the bottom and top rows.
Haven't yet decided if I'll make the type of roof rafters shown in the plans. I think I remember rafters having notches to fit over half logs and another notch to support the bottom roof plank.
I'll try to remember to take photos of the process on the added logs and roof.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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