Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
dauphin80 wrote:Thanks for the reminder. I did see in one of the saw dust sessions that the extra support was needed. Not sure if using the ShopSmith for mortises or using a plunge router would be more efficient?
Just another opinion: with the added simple support underneath (and especially with the carriage run all the way down) you get a very solid work surface, and some mortising can get to be rather "physical". The supported table will handle it with ease and safety, imho, I would think moreso than the plunger.
And then there's the everlasting contrast between square holes and routed (more chisel woprk needed). Big factor for me is how many mortises in what material.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
The 10ER, Mark5, MarkV(500) have a hole in the top of the fence that a 5/8" post for the hold down attaches. The 505-520 has a post with a t-nut that mounts in the top t-slot on the fence.
How about that! Complete with telescoping support rods!
Great, now I can use that 2x4 stub for something else!
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
keakap wrote:How about that! Complete with telescoping support rods!
Great, now I can use that 2x4 stub for something else!
Hang on to that 2x4!;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
pennview wrote:Rick, if I had a plunge router and a spiral bit, I'd build a jig and give that a try for cutting mortises before investing in the square bits and holder. Also, you might even try to mount a spiral bit in the Shopsmith router chuck and cut some mortises that way. Two flute end mills designed for cutting aluminum also can be used. If you make a series of plunges or holes and then clean up between the plunges, you'll get relatively clean mortises even at the relatively slow speed the Shopsmith turns a router bit. Another way to cut them using the router chuck is to make shallow plunges, lock the quill and slide the stock along to cut the width of the mortise, and then plunge, lock, etc. But you'll need three hands or use something like a quick grip clamp to cut mortises this way. And, then there is the overarm pin router. But then again, square mortises do have their appeal and once you're set up to cut them, they go quickly. So many options for accomplishing the same thing.
Actually, everyone does have a mortising machine if they have a Shopsmith equipped with a Shopsmith router chuck. I made some pretty satisfactory mortises with mine. The trick is to use the horizontal boring position. You can usually use a stop block on the rip fence for one side of the mortise. Just don't make the mortise full depth in one pass. Usually did mine with 1/4" depth passes. This was on red oak.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
