Shed install

wannabewoodworker · Post by **wannabewoodworker** » Thu Apr 21, 2011 10:47 pm

I bought a shed last year that is still wrapped up and covered but I need more room in the garage now so it is time to build it. It was a Costco shed that is built and then shipped. You just have to put it together and it looks relatively straight forward. My problem is before I can do that I need to build some kind of foundation. I don't want to mess with pouring a slab as that is not in the budget. So I was thinking about sinking some pressure treated posts and then building a frame to which the shed could be built on? Is this an acceptable idea or is it ridiculous thinking on my part? The shed is 8 x 12 so it isn't huge but isn't small either. I have never built anything like this befor so it is going to be an adventure and I want to do it somewhat right but also not spend a fortune either if that is possible???? Would it be better to get Sonotubes and pour some cement post???

rlkeeney · Post by **rlkeeney** » Fri Apr 22, 2011 5:52 am

Yes, a post foundation will work. However, it might be easier to pour a slab depending on where you live. If you don't set the posts right your shed will not stay level.

wannabewoodworker · Post by **wannabewoodworker** » Fri Apr 22, 2011 6:42 am

Pouring a slab is just not in the cards as it will involve too much digging and too much cost. I think the post foundation is the way to go. It will also keep the shed off the ground and away from moisture because I live in the northeast we get a lot of snow and ice.

michaeltoc · Post by **michaeltoc** » Fri Apr 22, 2011 7:15 am

Yes - a frame will work. (I did it with mine). The only mistake I made was to use CDX plywood for the floor, which rotted out over time.

tomsalwasser · Post by **tomsalwasser** » Fri Apr 22, 2011 7:25 am

Hi Michael,

I used these deck blocks as the foundation for shed I made and they've held up just fine for 15 years now. They were available at my local Menards home center. Good luck!

http://www.deckplans.com/

Tom

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Fri Apr 22, 2011 8:21 am

I have a 10 x 16 shed I build using standard framing construction, set on pressure treated 6x8" railroad timbers, using two 8' timbers along each side for the 16' length and three 10' timbers running the width of the shed. Poured concrete pilings at the corners and in the center where the two 8 footers came together. Used half lap joints and spikes to hold everything together. Also used pressure treated 2x4s and exterior plywood for the floor. Made a nice solid foundation for the rest of the structure. Have had no problems with the shed except that a groundhog has chewed a hole in the plywood floor that needs repairing. Every time I drive the thing away another one seems to come back in a few months.

garys · Post by **garys** » Fri Apr 22, 2011 9:03 am

Check your local building codes. Around here, a concrete pad is mandatory. Nothing else meets code because blocks, timbers, and other temporary foundations will become a rodent home that will give you more problems in the future than you can handle.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Fri Apr 22, 2011 10:05 am

Here anything up to 120 sq. ft. is exempt from any of the permit/inspection process.
The treated post will work fine but be sure to use the "soil contact" grade for the post. Also it is a very good idea to use a punch pad in each hole or pour a little concrete (about 3" thick) in the bottom of each hole. Do NOT set the post in concrete so that it makes a full boot on the post. The concrete will hold water like a tumbler and the post base will always be wet.

Depending on your intended use, there can be advantages to placing the shed well up off of the ground. If you have a dog in the yard having room for it to run under the shed will prevent "critters".

Depending on the terrain you can also place a shed on a hillside and have the door near the ground and the back high. If some of it is dug out you can close in the perimeter with something like lattice and have additional storage for various yard items (like buckets, flower planters etc.) under it. Heck if you have a steep enough hill you could almost have an open air basement.

.

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Fri Apr 22, 2011 10:41 am

When we moved last Fall, I bought one of those little sheds to pack away my workshop tools in until I could build a shop. They're still there and I've saved up about 2/3 of what I need to build the shop. It is an 8x12, cheap metal "Arrow" brand shed from Lowes for a couple hundred bucks. It came with a floor kit which was a metal frame you could cover with plywood. Plywood not included.

I just leveled the ground best I could and used some exterior 3/4" OSB over that floor kit. I covered it with a couple coats of paint to hep it last a little longer. I never intended for any of it to be "permanent" though. When I build the shop, I'll probably move the shed against one end of it and will make a better floor then. So far, it's holding up fine.

My bro-in-law bought a 12x14 shed (same "Arrow" metal type) about the same time. His is more permanent so he build a decent floor for it. He used a few 4x4's (I think 4 of them?) across the 12' section, then 2x6 boards, on edge, on 1' centers for floor joists on top of those, then covered it with 3/4" exterior plywood. He just used some concrete blocks and wooden shims to get the base 4x4's level. But we're on a flat surface of hard red clay so the ground isn't going to be sinking or washing out from under it anytime soon.

kalynzoo · Post by **kalynzoo** » Fri Apr 22, 2011 12:12 pm

I built mine on leveled earth. We have a clay rich soil, which I compacted somewhat. One year later and it is only leaning a little bit....

Probably should have worked on the foundation a bit more. But the doors close and it still keeps the elements out.
Just like most other things, the more you prep the better the outcome.