Pro Planer (Dallas/Ft. Worth area expert mechanic)

wgander · Post by **wgander** » Wed May 04, 2011 9:27 am

If you give up on the idea of complete disassembly, you might try EvapoRust to clean the table.
I've had good results soaking parts in it, and the instructions state that, for parts to big to be soaked in a container, you can cover the part with a cloth soaked with EvapoRust.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Wed May 04, 2011 9:43 am

That's a good point about EvapoRust, wgander. You likely could soak several lawyers of paper towels or a hand towel in Evaporust, lay it on the rusty table, and wrap that in something like Saran plastic wrap to keep the EvapoRust from evaporating. It may take a few tries, but it may be worth the effort given you reluctance to dismantle the planer. You can buy EvapoRust at Harbor Freight and with one of their 20 percent off coupons it would go for about $16.00 a gallon.

jayhawk · Post by **jayhawk** » Fri May 06, 2011 9:27 am

I have an aluminum table from a Shopsmith mounted planer that you can have. Just pay the shipping costs, please. Happy to help.

mikelst · Post by **mikelst** » Fri May 06, 2011 12:02 pm

goodyt

I sent you a pm about this.

goodyt · Post by **goodyt** » Fri May 06, 2011 8:25 pm

wgander: I like your idea on the evaporust. It certainly cannot make things any worse than they are now.

jayhawk: Many thanks for your very generous offer on the aluminum table. However, I would still be faced with the issue of dismantling the planer head, and then getting everything back together without parts left over.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri May 06, 2011 8:59 pm

goodyt wrote:wgander: I like your idea on the evaporust. It certainly cannot make things any worse than they are now.

jayhawk: Many thanks for your very generous offer on the aluminum table. However, I would still be faced with the issue of dismantling the planer head, and then getting everything back together without parts left over.

Not sure I understand the 'dismantling the planer head' concern. It is just a longer version of a jointer 'head'. Bearings on both ends.

Now the need to open up the two sides is a potential problem, but careful reassembly will get it done.(lotta shaft ends to get aligned simultaneously
).

I can understand Bill Mayo replacing the jack screws, but that may be a bit much for some. Proper adjustment of those screws to each other is critical.

Been there done that - can be frustrating!

Most significant thing I found was the table mounts(connects table to jack screws) binding. Not something you think to lubricate!

goodyt · Post by **goodyt** » Sat May 07, 2011 4:11 pm

JPG,

My terminology is probably defective on this subject. What I mean to say is "removing the planer bed from the planer assembly," not removal of the actual cutter head.

It appears-at least from the manual and a visual inspection-that one would have to totally dis-assemble the planer assembly, e.g., the cutter head, feeder rollers, etc. in order to get to the planer bed. Having done that, I question my ability to get everything back together so that it works, e.g., chain & gears aligned with the 4 bed-raising/lowering posts, etc.

When I initially purchased the planer, it appeared that the bed could be removed from the assembly by removing the 4 attachments (2 on each side of the bed). On closer inspection, it appears that the bed is attached at each corner to a full-thread vertical shaft, which serves as the height adjustment for the bed.

Further, it appears that removal of these vertical shafts would also require the removal of the bicycle chain that ties the ratchet action together. This is where I envision not being able to re-assemble everything properly.

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Sat May 07, 2011 6:16 pm

If the table raises and lowers smoothly right now, I would lower the table to the lowest position, remove the covers and start to apply elbow grease. A random orbital sander can help for some of it. However if the table does not raise and lower smoothly, I would disassemble. The key on re-assembly is getting the table flat side to side and front to back before re-installing and tensioning the chain. The disassembly and re-assembly is not hard, just a bunch more work. I am more of a function over form so I a do not care what it looks like as long as it does the job.

BTW, having shipped a number of planers successfully, I would offer this tip to anyone shipping one. Lower the table as far as it will go and cushion the machine in the shipping box. Or you can build a wooden box like Bill suggest.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat May 07, 2011 8:06 pm

Food for thought: The four screws on each side that hold the sides 'together' thread into four tie rods. The upper tie rods have bushings that the jack screws rotate in. The lower tie rods do the same for the lower end of the jack screws. The upper end of the jack screws are not captive and can be pulled out towards the bottom. The table is suspended on the jack screws by adapters that are inserted into the sides of the table and have a threaded bore that engages the jack screw. The lower end of the jack screws have the sprockets attached.

IF you were to loosen the chain, remove the chain tensioning sprocket bracket, remove the four LOWER tie rod screws, I believe the jack screws will slide out the bottom while still attached to all the other stuff(that includes the table).

Once out from under the 'rest of the planer' you can access the table and remove it from the jack screws if desired.

As far as reassembly is concerned, by positioning all four jack screws in the table mounts to a common dimension(from the ends) would get the positioning fairly close. Fine tuning can be done prior to reattaching the chain.

Realigning the chain is not difficult, but can get troublesome if not done in a rigorously logical sequence with minimal range of adjustments.

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