Plastic Mitre Bar Slides

wdphillips · Post by **wdphillips** » Mon May 09, 2011 7:42 pm

Following the Rick Davis Maintenance & Alignment DVD I noted that the plastic slide screws on my new (to me) SS Mitre Bar were twisted off in the threaded hole.

Is there good way to get the remaining plastic out and… what to replace them with? It would seem a shame to have to order two plastic screws from ShopSmith!

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

wannabewoodworker · Post by **wannabewoodworker** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:12 pm

I would just drill them out. I found some plastic screws at the local Lowes store in the hardware section that could be used to replace the originals you just have to cut the heads off and round the area where the heads were. Then just cut some slots in them to screw them into the bores.

wdphillips · Post by **wdphillips** » Tue May 10, 2011 12:21 pm

Thanks... noted that the thread size was 5/16-18. 1/2" metal bolts slip right in there (would need to cut a slot). I would guess this would wear a groove in the aluminum table after a while, hence the need for phenolic!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue May 10, 2011 2:14 pm

wdphillips wrote:Thanks... noted that the thread size was 5/16-18. 1/2" metal bolts slip right in there (would need to cut a slot). I would guess this would wear a groove in the aluminum table after a while, hence the need for phenolic!

FWIW: The original are nylon, the slot is on the top end, and the bottoms are 'spherical(originally until worn flat). They are adjusted from the holes in the top

P.S. That is the older vintage I described above!

P.P.S. The 'headless' slotted kylon screws described above should also work with the newer version. Just ignore the big counterbore!

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Tue May 10, 2011 2:57 pm

There was an article on the Shopsmith Tool Hunter blog about these plastic screws. If I recall correctly, on the 510/520 they used a fatter contact-point (in the mentioned counterbore) against the table, to avoid the miter-gage hanging up on the 510/520 Saw Table Insert.

On a 500 table, either style (skinny or fat) would work.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue May 10, 2011 3:14 pm

nuhobby wrote:There was an article on the Shopsmith Tool Hunter blog about these plastic screws. If I recall correctly, on the 510/520 they used a fatter contact-point (in the mentioned counterbore) against the table, to avoid the miter-gage hanging up on the 510/520 Saw Table Insert.

On a 500 table, either style (skinny or fat) would work.

I had forgotten about that! The ribbed table top is the culprit IIRC!

So a nylon faucet washer with a counter sunk 5/16 screw! ;>}} Shimmed!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue May 10, 2011 3:39 pm

[quote="JPG40504"]I had forgotten about that! The ribbed table top is the culprit IIRC!

So a nylon faucet washer with a counter sunk 5/16 screw! ]

Why not just get nylon screws to replace the originals when they wear out? Am I missing something?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue May 10, 2011 3:45 pm

dusty wrote:Why not just get nylon screws to replace the originals when they wear out? Am I missing something?

Single source! $$$$ You know of another source?

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=514566&Submit=Find+Item

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Tue May 10, 2011 4:19 pm

Perhaps these would work -- http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MICRO- ... crew-4FXE1 -- $4.59 for 10.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue May 10, 2011 4:47 pm

pennview wrote:Perhaps these would work -- http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MICRO-PLASTICS-Socket-Set-Screw-4FXE1 -- $4.59 for 10.

Yep! On the older version! 3/4" just right!!!