Plastic Mitre Bar Slides

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ldh
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Post by ldh »

These from McMaster-Carr (94564A310) work quite well also.
ldh
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wannabewoodworker
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Post by wannabewoodworker »

dusty wrote:Why not just get nylon screws to replace the originals when they wear out? Am I missing something?
Dusty,
I mentioned above that i bought some nylon screws at Lowes that only need to have the heads cut off and a small slot cut into them to install. I guess nobody read my post??? They cost me I think >$2.00 two to a pack.
Michael Mayo
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1960's SS Mark VII, 1954 Greenie, 1983 Mark V, Jointer, Bandsaw, Jigsaw, Dewalt Slider, Delta Super 10, Delta 8" Grinder, Craftsman compressor, Drill Doctor, Kreg PH Jig, Bosch Jigsaw, Craftsman Router and Table...........and adding more all the time....:D
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

wannabewoodworker wrote:Dusty,
I mentioned above that i bought some nylon screws at Lowes that only need to have the heads cut off and a small slot cut into them to install. I guess nobody read my post??? They cost me I think >$2.00 two to a pack.

I guess I be 'nobody' since I did read your post.:D

IMHO, using off the shelf standard parts is preferable to modified off the shelf parts. Also the McMaster Carr screws were just over $10 for 50! Now that leaves enough for trading stock!;)

The newer version is much more difficult to obtain. At $13+ EACH an alternative is sought!!! Hence the faucet washer/screw/shim suggestion.


P.S. the slots belong in the TOP end of the screws!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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wannabewoodworker
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Post by wannabewoodworker »

[quote="JPG40504"]I guess I be 'nobody' since I did read your post.:D

IMHO, using off the shelf standard parts is preferable to modified off the shelf parts. Also the McMaster Carr screws were just over $10 for 50! Now that leaves enough for trading stock!]

Sorry JPG didn't mean you as I think you read everything......:D I did just check out the McMaster screws and you are right those are the money part for sure. I have purchased from them in the past and it is painless and inexpensive. Those would definitely be the way to go.

Image
Michael Mayo
Senior IT Support Engineer
Soft Designs Inc.
albiemanmike@gmail.com
1960's SS Mark VII, 1954 Greenie, 1983 Mark V, Jointer, Bandsaw, Jigsaw, Dewalt Slider, Delta Super 10, Delta 8" Grinder, Craftsman compressor, Drill Doctor, Kreg PH Jig, Bosch Jigsaw, Craftsman Router and Table...........and adding more all the time....:D
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wannabewoodworker
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Post by wannabewoodworker »

I think these would be even better as they are slightly longer and give you more to wear down.

McMaster number #94564A315

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Michael Mayo
Senior IT Support Engineer
Soft Designs Inc.
albiemanmike@gmail.com
1960's SS Mark VII, 1954 Greenie, 1983 Mark V, Jointer, Bandsaw, Jigsaw, Dewalt Slider, Delta Super 10, Delta 8" Grinder, Craftsman compressor, Drill Doctor, Kreg PH Jig, Bosch Jigsaw, Craftsman Router and Table...........and adding more all the time....:D
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ryanbp01
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Post by ryanbp01 »

I didn't realize nylon was used. All of my set screws are metal.

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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

wannabewoodworker wrote:I think these would be even better as they are slightly longer and give you more to wear down.

McMaster number #94564A315

Image
I believe this one (1" long) would block the holes for the miter gauge stop rod. No big deal if you don't have or plan to use one.
Rob in San Diego
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ldh
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Post by ldh »

ryanbp01 wrote:I didn't realize nylon was used. All of my set screws are metal.

BPR
I should have given a bit more information in my post from yesterday regarding the SS Miter Gage slides. The McMaster-Carr #94564A310 nylon at 3/4" set screws work fine for the older miter gage. The 1" 94564A315 is a bit long and will interfere with the 1/4" stop rod use. The McMaster-Carr #91970A579 1/2" nylon bolt works well with the newer gages. You will need to cut a slot in the head of the bolt for adjustment. I have repaired several of the gages and the 6/6 nylon seems to hold up well and it is inexpensive.

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

SDSSmith wrote:I believe this one (1" long) would block the holes for the miter gauge stop rod. No big deal if you don't have or plan to use one.

Indeed it would! 3/4" is perfect!(long enough to wear a long time, short enough to clear the stop rod holes.


FWIW My almost half century old Goldie still has the original screws. Might be 1/16" shorter!

http://www.mcmaster.com/#91970a579/=c9e6ra <<<<<<< newer style!!!!!!!!!!! send IDH a finder's fee!!!!!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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wdphillips
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Post by wdphillips »

The shipping is what kills me but... given all of the information provide on this thread we do have a Fastenal in our small town. Here is the Fastenal part that I am having them order in for me. $.33 per and I do not have to pay shipping!

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... 927&ucst=t
1998 Mark V Model 510, Band Saw, Scroll Saw, Joiner, Belt Sander
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