Bearings & Presses

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bucksaw
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Location: Boise, ID

Post by bucksaw »

billmayo wrote:The HF kit comes with extensions that I use. You just start the bearing on the shaft. I mount a collar half in my metal vise. Then place the collar's flat side againest the out side of the bearing. Always put the pressure on the inner race, not the outter race. I have the puller lead screw againest the other end of the shaft. This may take some effort to get the drive sleeve assy centered. Then slowly pull the bearing onto the shaft making sure the bearing does not tilt at any time until it seats. I had used the HF kit for many years until I could afford better equipment last year. The lead screw has held up really well over several hundred uses.
Thank Bill! I appreciate the feedback.
Dave - Idaho
Greenie S#261612 - Mar 1954 / Greenie S#305336 - Oct 1955 / Gray S#SS1360 - ?

"Why do we drive on parkways and park on driveways?" :cool:
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nuhobby
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Post by nuhobby »

billmayo wrote: I use an older model Harbor Freight BEARING SEPARATOR AND PULLER SET Pittsburgh 93980-1VGA for $49.99, on sale for $29.95 sometimes. I have and still use it to remove and install Shopsmith bearings for many years without a hydranic press. I find for installing bearings, if you put the shaft in the freezer for a couple hours and the bearing in the sun, then I don't need much force, if any, to install the bearing. Same for installing the Drive Sleeve Assy. I put the assy. with bearings in a zip lock bag in the freezer for a hour or two, the headstock in the sun, then the assy will install quite easy in the headstock. I never like to use force to install any bearing and never any pressure on the balls.
I was covered with sweat earlier today but now I'm cool!

I just used the HF Bearing Separator / Puller set, and 2 new 6202 shielded bearings, to fix my Ceiling Fan.:p

Overall I spent about 2 hours doing this. Had been wanting to do it since August. A little bit of under-employment goes a long way in catching up around the house.
Chris
damagi
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Post by damagi »

billmayo wrote:The HF kit comes with extensions that I use. You just start the bearing on the shaft. I mount a collar half in my metal vise. Then place the collar's flat side againest the out side of the bearing. Always put the pressure on the inner race, not the outter race. I have the puller lead screw againest the other end of the shaft. This may take some effort to get the drive sleeve assy centered. Then slowly pull the bearing onto the shaft making sure the bearing does not tilt at any time until it seats. I had used the HF kit for many years until I could afford better equipment last year. The lead screw has held up really well over several hundred uses.
So I got an order of 6202-ZZ/C3 bearings (as well as some other sizes). The center bore on the bearing is showing 37/64 in, while the farnir 202ddk5 is reading 39/64 in. is heating the bearing (using the lightbulb trick) and cooling the shaft going to yield the 1/32"+ clearance I am missing to get it on the shaft? I have te HF puller/press set, though its a little short to pull the bearing all the way on...I suppose it may be time to go buy some allthread?
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup

JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw

-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
pennview
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Post by pennview »

You got the metric sized 6202 bearing with 15mm inner bore. What you needed were the 35mm outer by 11mm wide with 5/8" bore. There are various ways of designating the 5/8" bore -- something like 6202zz-5/8 or 6202zz-10, where the 10 stands for 10/16".
Art in Western Pennsylvania
damagi
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Post by damagi »

pennview wrote:You got the metric sized 6202 bearing with 15mm inner bore. What you needed were the 35mm outer by 11mm wide with 5/8" bore. There are various ways of designating the 5/8" bore -- something like 6202zz-5/8 or 6202zz-10, where the 10 stands for 10/16".
doh! yup, you are correct. Just ordered some 6202-ZZ-10.
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup

JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw

-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
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wannabewoodworker
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Post by wannabewoodworker »

To install the bearings just get them started with slight taps to the inner race just to square them up and then I put it in the vice supporting the inner race. Then I use a hammer to tap them on to the shafts. They are not really interference fit i.e. in need of heavy pressing. They will go on very easily if you got them started square on the shaft. I have the HF press kit that Bill Mayo suggested to me last year and it has worked flawlessly and for $29.99 you can't beat it. I bought the ratcheting clamps this weekend and have already broken one of them so a lot of thier stuff isn't very good but some of it is well worth the price.
Michael Mayo
Senior IT Support Engineer
Soft Designs Inc.
albiemanmike@gmail.com
1960's SS Mark VII, 1954 Greenie, 1983 Mark V, Jointer, Bandsaw, Jigsaw, Dewalt Slider, Delta Super 10, Delta 8" Grinder, Craftsman compressor, Drill Doctor, Kreg PH Jig, Bosch Jigsaw, Craftsman Router and Table...........and adding more all the time....:D
maxgreenwood
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Post by maxgreenwood »

Thanks Tony, for your reply. That blow up helped me visualize the headstock and I think I know what to do now. I will begin my project tommorow. I also appreciate all the other imput regarding the bearings and pressings, etc. Here goes.
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