Main Table Not Aligned or Not Flat???
Moderator: admin
Keakap;
I think that you can eliminate the headstock as a problem at least for now. I have also installed a complete new PP headstock and I do not have any problems. Having the same problem with two different headstocks would seem to indicate a common problem not related to the headstock. I would like to know what kind of drill bit that you are using. If it is a standard twist drill are the cutting angles at the same angle and are the cutting edges cut to the same angle? Unequal grinds at the cutting edges can cause a drill to pull and can cause an egg shaped hole.
One thing to try is to put the saw blade on and set the table to drill press position and advance the quill to put the blade about 1/8 inch from the table. If the table is the same distance from the blade at all positions around the circumference then the table is probably flat or at least true to the plane of rotation of the spindle.
If the runout is as great as you say you dhould be able to detect some movement at the end of the quill with the quill fully extended.
If you perform this drilling operation again try to put your Wixey on the table and see if the Wixey changes the reading when you drill the holes. If it does then I would suggest table flex or a cracked table carriage or something amiss in the table support system.
Bill V
I think that you can eliminate the headstock as a problem at least for now. I have also installed a complete new PP headstock and I do not have any problems. Having the same problem with two different headstocks would seem to indicate a common problem not related to the headstock. I would like to know what kind of drill bit that you are using. If it is a standard twist drill are the cutting angles at the same angle and are the cutting edges cut to the same angle? Unequal grinds at the cutting edges can cause a drill to pull and can cause an egg shaped hole.
One thing to try is to put the saw blade on and set the table to drill press position and advance the quill to put the blade about 1/8 inch from the table. If the table is the same distance from the blade at all positions around the circumference then the table is probably flat or at least true to the plane of rotation of the spindle.
If the runout is as great as you say you dhould be able to detect some movement at the end of the quill with the quill fully extended.
If you perform this drilling operation again try to put your Wixey on the table and see if the Wixey changes the reading when you drill the holes. If it does then I would suggest table flex or a cracked table carriage or something amiss in the table support system.
Bill V
It's quill/headstock where the problems lies. The spindle runout in relation to the quill doesn't seem bad, no noticeable slop but once extended the quill itself is well sloppy, I can rock it by hand. I can see the top groove move way too much with as little as 4" of extension. Means that the drill bit can catch the edge of an existing hole and get pulled off line. Get the drill bit entering the centre hole spot on and it stays spot on.BigSky wrote:Just how much wobble (runout) are you living with? Whatever amount it is, it can be reduced to something on the order of .002" to .006" measured at the end of a fully extended quill. All you have to do is rebuild the quill with new bearings.
All you have to do is rebuild the quill... small room, lots of unfinished projects all over, a disassembled SS would be the crowning glory.
At the mo my SS is good enough for government work
[quote="jm51"]It's quill/headstock where the problems lies. The spindle runout in relation to the quill doesn't seem bad, no noticeable slop but once extended the quill itself is well sloppy, I can rock it by hand. I can see the top groove move way too much with as little as 4" of extension. Means that the drill bit can catch the edge of an existing hole and get pulled off line. Get the drill bit entering the centre hole spot on and it stays spot on.
All you have to do is rebuild the quill... small room, lots of unfinished projects all over, a disassembled SS would be the crowning glory.
At the mo my SS is good enough for government work ]
You need not disassemble the the SS; just pull the quill and install one or two new bearings. There is a Sawdust Session that covers the details.
However, I do understand schedules. You simply have to chose your battles according to their priorities.
All you have to do is rebuild the quill... small room, lots of unfinished projects all over, a disassembled SS would be the crowning glory.
At the mo my SS is good enough for government work ]
You need not disassemble the the SS; just pull the quill and install one or two new bearings. There is a Sawdust Session that covers the details.
However, I do understand schedules. You simply have to chose your battles according to their priorities.
MarkFive510
Being in the UK, all parts that might be needed will have be procured first. While doing that I might as well get the rest of it done...with the quill retracted or locked there is no slop so it will do the jobs I bought it for.
Defo the quill bearings? The ones that go between spindle and quill?
What is it that holds the quill to the headstock?
Defo the quill bearings? The ones that go between spindle and quill?
What is it that holds the quill to the headstock?
I think that this Sawdust Session will answer that question for you.jm51 wrote:Being in the UK, all parts that might be needed will have be procured first. While doing that I might as well get the rest of it done...with the quill retracted or locked there is no slop so it will do the jobs I bought it for.
Defo the quill bearings? The ones that go between spindle and quill?
What is it that holds the quill to the headstock?
MarkFive510
Thanks for the link, the relevant bit started about 15:50.
I removed the little plug on top of the headstock and had a play with the Allen screw. Improvement but not a total fix.
The groove on top of the extended quill doesn't look right. The first 1.5" of groove has a distinct and proper looking edge, no problem there but the rest of the groove (top) is chamfered due to metal on metal contact.
I can work around this, so no biggie as I'm thinking that with the moderate use this machine is likely to get from me, it's good for at least 10 years.
I removed the little plug on top of the headstock and had a play with the Allen screw. Improvement but not a total fix.
The groove on top of the extended quill doesn't look right. The first 1.5" of groove has a distinct and proper looking edge, no problem there but the rest of the groove (top) is chamfered due to metal on metal contact.
I can work around this, so no biggie as I'm thinking that with the moderate use this machine is likely to get from me, it's good for at least 10 years.
[quote="wa2crk"]Keakap]
I was too brief. The runout I mentioned is pure quill play. Old unit (2-bearing, don't remember if it was stock or if I upgraded) with quill extended side slop runout was very small, IIRC. New PowerPro model under same condition it is quite noticeable. I'm just talkin no drill or nuttin, just running out the quill and shakin it side to side.
It is a little disapppointing, but I don't consider it a real problem. Knowing it is there I can accomodate and make allowances/ adjustments in procedures. And those I think I would make anyway, as standard precaution. It's still within my "finicky" tolerance level.
Thanks for the other reminders. Good review. [Reminds me, I realize, of what drilling holes was like back before I discovered those items to check. Ugly!]
I was too brief. The runout I mentioned is pure quill play. Old unit (2-bearing, don't remember if it was stock or if I upgraded) with quill extended side slop runout was very small, IIRC. New PowerPro model under same condition it is quite noticeable. I'm just talkin no drill or nuttin, just running out the quill and shakin it side to side.
It is a little disapppointing, but I don't consider it a real problem. Knowing it is there I can accomodate and make allowances/ adjustments in procedures. And those I think I would make anyway, as standard precaution. It's still within my "finicky" tolerance level.
Thanks for the other reminders. Good review. [Reminds me, I realize, of what drilling holes was like back before I discovered those items to check. Ugly!]
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Quill Movement (Wobble) When Fully Extended.
jm51 wrote:I've recently drilled 4mm holes for some loudspeakers I'm building and there is quite a bit of wobble in the quill on my SS.
What I did was start with a centre bit to give me a countersunk cone for the 4mm drill bit. With the 4mm bit fitted and the SS off, I lowered the quill until the bit was in the 'hole'. Any sign of the bit moving sideways and I'd try again until the bit went in without flexing, then I'd hit the power and drill it.
I don't know what you are calling "quite a bit" of wobble but I did a simple test to see what I had. I do not have "quite a bit" by my standard.
The runout measures about .006" and I can move the quill by applying lateral pressure, when fully extended, about .012" in either direction.
I think you will be able to view my simple test here.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
The quill was locked for this entire test. Everything is still setup. I'll run a quick test with the quill unlocked before I put everything away. Will post the results then.jm51 wrote:Is that with the quill lock on? It's with the quill unlocked that I get the most slop.
I'll do a similar test as soon as I locate my dial gauge.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.