checking for wobble
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checking for wobble
How would I check my quill out for wobble?
I want to make sure that the quill is not making my 2" deep holes wider than they should be.
thanks
I want to make sure that the quill is not making my 2" deep holes wider than they should be.
thanks
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michaeltoc
- Gold Member
- Posts: 222
- Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2009 9:51 pm
- Location: White Plains, NY
The only way I know is to use a dial indicator. Runout is usually only a few thousandths of an inch, so you really cannot check it visually.
Without an indicator, if the runout is excessive, you may be able to do a visual check using a straightedge. In drill press mode raise the table or extend the quill so that the round part of the bit is at the table level. Place a straightedge on the table touching the bit. Hold it firmly, and rotate the quill by hand. If the bit stays in contact with the straightedge you may be ok. If the runout is excessive, the bit will touch the straightedge, then move away from it at the opposite side of rotation.
Without an indicator, if the runout is excessive, you may be able to do a visual check using a straightedge. In drill press mode raise the table or extend the quill so that the round part of the bit is at the table level. Place a straightedge on the table touching the bit. Hold it firmly, and rotate the quill by hand. If the bit stays in contact with the straightedge you may be ok. If the runout is excessive, the bit will touch the straightedge, then move away from it at the opposite side of rotation.
Michael
Mark V Model 500 (1985) upgraded to 520 (2009) and PowerPro (2011); Bandsaw, Jointer, Jigsaw, Planer.
Mark V Model 500 (1985) upgraded to 520 (2009) and PowerPro (2011); Bandsaw, Jointer, Jigsaw, Planer.
- dusty
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I don't know how much wobble you are experiencing but if the holes that are being drilled are noticeably oversized you have a problem.
Use a 1/4" drill to drill a hole. Take the bit out of the chuck and insert the shank into the hole that you just drilled. It should be a firm fit.
Bote: All of this while assuming the hole is being drilled at a 90° angle. Even at an angle, the fit should be firm but the hole will not appear to be round.
Use a 1/4" drill to drill a hole. Take the bit out of the chuck and insert the shank into the hole that you just drilled. It should be a firm fit.
Bote: All of this while assuming the hole is being drilled at a 90° angle. Even at an angle, the fit should be firm but the hole will not appear to be round.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
This video might help you decide how you want to set up for a run out test, farley.farley wrote:How would I check my quill out for wobble?
I want to make sure that the quill is not making my 2" deep holes wider than they should be.
thanks
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
When extended, the quill on my SS has some slop where quill meets headstock. There is no slop when the quill is retracted or locked.
More of a minor irritation than a problem to me as it needs external influence for the slop to happen. If the work stays clamped while bits are changed I have no problem as there's nothing to pull the bit off line.
I was doing 4" holes in 1/2" ply with an adjustable hole cutter which meant flipping the work as it had trouble cutting half way, smokey workshop lol. Once the work was flipped over, I had to be careful that the pilot bit part of the hole cutter entered the previously drilled hole exactly. If it didn't, the quill would move sideways enough to make up the difference.
In practice, it took about 15 seconds to centre the work by repeatedly extending the pilot bit into the work (SS off) until it was spot on. Squeeze the work clamps, check it's still centred, power on and drill.
More of a minor irritation than a problem to me as it needs external influence for the slop to happen. If the work stays clamped while bits are changed I have no problem as there's nothing to pull the bit off line.
I was doing 4" holes in 1/2" ply with an adjustable hole cutter which meant flipping the work as it had trouble cutting half way, smokey workshop lol. Once the work was flipped over, I had to be careful that the pilot bit part of the hole cutter entered the previously drilled hole exactly. If it didn't, the quill would move sideways enough to make up the difference.
In practice, it took about 15 seconds to centre the work by repeatedly extending the pilot bit into the work (SS off) until it was spot on. Squeeze the work clamps, check it's still centred, power on and drill.
They are also known a dial indicators. Harbor Freight has them for 14.99. You may also need a mounting base for the dial indicator and Harbor Freight sells a magnetic base for about the same price. While it won't stick to your aluminum table, you could simply clamp it in place. One will simplify adjusting/positioning the dial indicator.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
But the magnetic base will 'stick' to the miter gauge bar which can be locked in place with the tapered screw.pennview wrote:They are also known a dial indicators. Harbor Freight has them for 14.99. You may also need a mounting base for the dial indicator and Harbor Freight sells a magnetic base for about the same price. While it won't stick to your aluminum table, you could simply clamp it in place. One will simplify adjusting/positioning the dial indicator.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Note that the $65 SS gauge includes many extras like miter slot mount and a slew of different tips.
P.S. They be $70 now! http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/mvlt_dialindicator.htm
P.S. They be $70 now! http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/mvlt_dialindicator.htm
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange