1981 Mark V Refurb Thread

garys · Post by **garys** » Wed Jun 15, 2011 4:58 pm

SDSSmith wrote:If the inside of the tools are in as good shape as the outside, I would just lube it and use it. Good looking tools there and great looking kids!

I agree. It doesn't look like it needs to be refurbished. It needs to cut some wood.

pessen · Post by **pessen** » Wed Jun 15, 2011 9:20 pm

garys wrote:I agree. It doesn't look like it needs to be refurbished. It needs to cut some wood.

I probably could get by with just setting it up and sawing away, but I would rather take care of the rust that is starting to show up on the tubes, and the rust on the jointer and main table, and make sure it is good and lubed up now while I am in the process of setting up, then to have to do it down the road when it becomes even worse. The rust on the tubes doesn't show up very well in the pictures, but they are definitely are beginning to rust.

Guess it is just preventive maintenance in my opinion where if I do it once now, it will be pretty simple, and should be easy to maintain for years down the road.

pessen · Post by **pessen** » Sun Jun 26, 2011 5:27 pm

I got around to cleaning the tubes on the SS about a week ago. Have been working pretty slow as most of my time has been spent unpacking and getting some things done around the house from our move earlier in the month.

Here is a pic of 3 of the tubes that are "after" de-rusting them alongside one tube that I hadn't touched yet. Quite an improvement I thought. Sometimes you don't realize how bad something is getting until you see it all cleaned up.

[ATTACH]13476[/ATTACH]

When buying some supplies at Lowe's, I found this sanding pad near the sand paper. It worked quite well, plus it can be used wet or dry. I think I might take the sandpaper I purchased back as this cleaned up the tubes quite nicely.

[ATTACH]13477[/ATTACH]

Alright, my next question for those of you who have done this before. I was working on disassembling the wheel assemblies. I removed the bar with the rise/lower foot lever, but how do you remove the lower bar (Shown in the picture)? There is a little hole on each end with what look to be hollow pins connecting the bar to the gray leg pieces? Is there any way to get these apart? I might try using the gray pad above to remove the rust on these pieces, but if that is not sufficient then will probably try evaporust.....unless someone has a better suggestion.

[ATTACH]13478[/ATTACH]

Thanks for looking!

pessen

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Sun Jun 26, 2011 5:56 pm

You need the appropriate size pin punch to drive the roll pin through. The right size punch will fit neatly in the holes you are driving the pin through.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Jun 26, 2011 8:23 pm

You can save yourself some later frustration if you mark each 'lower' rod(both ends) so that when reassembling, the same ends of the rods go into the same holes in the same castings. They are drilled at assembly, and often vary to the point of not fitting other combinations. I dimple 0 to 3 marks on the ends of the tierods(lower) and on the castings near the hole.

FWIW I usually remove the lower rods FIRST. Removing the crank is done by again driving the tension pin out. You may need to use a smaller pin punch to get it through the shaft. Those pins can be stubborn to get started. In any event, do NOT booger the ends.

Also some pix prior to disassembly will help when reassembling. Only the castings are left/right pairs. All other left caster/right caster variations are the result of different orientation of parts that are the same. All cams, all crankshaft, all tierods, all cranks all pistons, all springs, all retaining clips are the same. Location of holes in the crank shaft is important.

There is one correct combination, many not so!:eek:

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Jun 26, 2011 9:30 pm

This may be helpful:

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=4110

pessen · Post by **pessen** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 11:33 pm

I don't have a pin punch set. Is there any alternative tool to use that can work that would save me from having to go out and buy a pin punch set?

I'm not that cheap.....just purchased our first house and are really trying to watch what we spend right now.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 11:39 pm

pessen wrote:I don't have a pin punch set. Is there any alternative tool to use that can work that would save me from having to go out and buy a pin punch set?

I'm not that cheap.....just purchased our first house and are really trying to watch what we spend right now.

Try a correctly sized common nail. They are soft and prone to bending. File the end flat that pushes the tension pin.

P.S. There are variations. Some have pinned cams rather than set screws. The tierod and crank shaft tension pins have a different diameter.

pessen · Post by **pessen** » Wed Jun 29, 2011 9:08 pm

Alright, I think that I am just going to bite the nail and buy the pin punch set, the last thing I want to do is screw up the pins.....plus the pin punch's could come in handy again at a later date when more Shopsmiths make their way into my garage.

I was trying to think of what else I need while I am at the hardware store. I have paste wax for the tubes, what types of oil/lube is recommended keeping the motor lubed? The maintenance manual mentioned just 10W30 oil, anything else/different that I need or you would recommend?

I was also thinking of buying some paint to repaint the legs since they have some rust spots on them. Is hammered gray the recommended color? Does it match exactly or will I have to repaint all the gray parts to get them to match?

Thanks again!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Jun 29, 2011 9:44 pm

pessen wrote:Alright, I think that I am just going to bite the nail and buy the pin punch set, the last thing I want to do is screw up the pins.....plus the pin punch's could come in handy again at a later date when more Shopsmiths make their way into my garage.

I was trying to think of what else I need while I am at the hardware store. I have paste wax for the tubes, what types of oil/lube is recommended keeping the motor lubed? The maintenance manual mentioned just 10W30 oil, anything else/different that I need or you would recommend?

I was also thinking of buying some paint to repaint the legs since they have some rust spots on them. Is hammered gray the recommended color? Does it match exactly or will I have to repaint all the gray parts to get them to match?

Thanks again!

10W not 10W30 Zoomspout(or equivalent) - 3 in one - 'turbine oil' - sewing machine oil. Some powdered graphite(or other DRY lubricant).

Hammered not a good choice for newer grey models. Color match will be a challenge. I would just use grey primer, and paint all one color after all parts are 'primed'.