SS bug strikes a 3rd time

[fiatben]

When the local craigslist shows a Shopsmith for $100, you gotta go look, right? Even if it's a rusted out hunk of junk, I can't just let it go to the scrap metal people. At least I got him to come down $20 on the price.

Man, this thing is ROUGH! This will be a serious, and yet fun (I hope), challenge to my skills.

These are the pics on craigslist (I forgot to take my camera). It looks even worse in reality.
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[ATTACH]13495[/ATTACH]


And this is what it looks like in a Fiat 124 Spider (who needs a truck?)
[ATTACH]13498[/ATTACH]

More to come...

[JPG]

When the local craigslist shows a Shopsmith for $100, you gotta go look, right? Even if it's a rusted out hunk of junk, I can't just let it go to the scrap metal people. At least I got him to come down $20 on the price.

Man, this thing is ROUGH! This will be a serious, and yet fun (I hope), challenge to my skills.

These are the pics on craigslist (I forgot to take my camera). It looks even worse in reality.
[ATTACH]13494[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]13495[/ATTACH]


And this is what it looks like in a Fiat 124 Spider (who needs a truck?)
[ATTACH]13498[/ATTACH]

More to come...

How do the main table posts look? The extension table posts look 'decent'. Never mind, they look good in the spider!

The way and bench tubes look 'rough', but we know they can be made to look almost new!


AHEM! What color this one?:D

[wlhayesmfs]

I agree, leave no SS behind, Scrapers beware,
Lets us know how it looks when you are done. Can always make a mini or shorty.

[fiatben]

So, let's begin....

Here is my first real close look at what I've brought upon myself. First I had to stop and make a headstock stand (per Sawdust Sessions) as the old one fell apart back when I was helping that kid refurb his grandpa's SS. It sure was convenient to have my 510 for sawing and the bandsaw on the 500 for the curves.
The key word here is, and will repeatedly be, corrosion...
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The tubes may be my first foray into electrolysis. Gotta go read those threads and figure out what to use that is big enough for the tubes. (And,yes, Bill, it has crossed my mind that this could be my first mini-Smith).
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So, pulled the remaining screws off the motor pan, dropped the motor, pulled the on/off switch, and here's my first look at the inside...
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Interestingly enough, there was no real evidence of sawdust, just more corrosion, rust, oxidation, accumulated dirt and cobwebs.

You'd think this thing had lived near the ocean or up north out in the streets during winter to have this much rust and oxidation. I'm gonna need a bigger bottle of EvapoRust.
[ATTACH]13503[/ATTACH]

After about two hours and mucho elbow grease (along with half a can of penetrating oil, a rubber hammer, gear puller, and misc. tools, it is basically apart, sorta. At least it is down into manageable components, each of which will require it's own special attention.
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And now for the specifics.....

[fiatben]

I'm kinda getting some mixed signals from this unit.

A little background: owner's mom bought this for him while he was in high school (I'm guessing early '80s) so it was probably a used unit. He said it had started tripping the breaker when turned on. He had a friend who diagnosed it as motor problems. He was going to scrap it then thought maybe someone would want it for parts.

Serial number 36063 (appropriate since this is my 3rd SS) would indicate a build date of December 1959. My learnings (thanks to this forum primarily) would say this should be an "A" casting and the smaller motor. It is a Gilmer drive with a single bearing quill. However, this casting has the big access hole behind the nameplate and it also has an 1-1/8 HP motor. While I didn't specifically ask, I was under the impression that the previous owner had not done any upgrades. He primarily used it for a lathe back when it was used at all.

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[ATTACH]13506[/ATTACH]

The motor had a little dirt in it and the paint is peeling off the casing. Once I had it out of the headstock, I plugged it in and flipped the switch. It runs very smooth and very quiet (and makes me very happy!)

I suspect the sheaves were the real problem. The floating and fan sheaves seem locked in a "closed" position and the idler/control sheaves are stuck wide open. The belt (still bearing the Shopsmith stamping) shows wear on the sides like I would expect in this case.

So now I'm off to search for how to rebuild/repair the sheaves and speed control assembly.

[JPG]

I would not attempt turning on the motor until after disassembly and cleanup etc. It appears to have been sitting in water? but that would require the louvered vent in the motor pan to have been plugged. Also suspicious since the(a) PO removed the belt cover.

2" pvc cut to about 5', capped(one end glued, one end plugged) and a 3/4" capped(glued both ends)[to fill the center of the ss tubes thus requiring less evaporust] Length short enough to allow plugging 2" pipe with 3/4" pipe inside ss tube. Takes about a pint of evaporust(buy a gallon!!!).

Realize evaporust eats black oxide(blox). LIGHT wire brushing may be better on quill and other 'exposed blox parts.

Lotta cleaning up to do, but it will clean up purty gud!

[SDSSmith]

I would not attempt turning on the motor until after disassembly and cleanup etc. It appears to have been sitting in water? but that would require the louvered vent in the motor pan to have been plugged. Also suspicious since the(a) PO removed the belt cover.

2" pvc cut to about 5", capped(one end glued, one end plugged) and a 3/4" capped(glued both ends)[to fill the center of the ss tubes thus requiring less evaporust] Length short enough to allow plugging 2" pipe with 3/4" pipe inside ss tube. Takes about a pint of evaporust(buy a gallon!!!).

Realize evaporust eats black oxide(blox). LIGHT wire brushing may be better on quill and other 'exposed blox parts.

Lotta cleaning up to do, but it will clean up purty gud!

I hope you meant 5' long instead of 5" cause otherwise, this arrangement might be pretty amusing. Also, do you fill the 3/4" tube with anything before you seal it (water, sand, etc.)? It might make pouring the Evaporust in a little easier.

[JPG]

I'm kinda getting some mixed signals from this unit.

A little background: owner's mom bought this for him while he was in high school (I'm guessing early '80s) so it was probably a used unit. He said it had started tripping the breaker when turned on. He had a friend who diagnosed it as motor problems. He was going to scrap it then thought maybe someone would want it for parts.

Serial number 36063 (appropriate since this is my 3rd SS) would indicate a build date of December 1959. My learnings (thanks to this forum primarily) would say this should be an "A" casting and the smaller motor. It is a Gilmer drive with a single bearing quill. However, this casting has the big access hole behind the nameplate and it also has an 1-1/8 HP motor. While I didn't specifically ask, I was under the impression that the previous owner had not done any upgrades. He primarily used it for a lathe back when it was used at all.

[ATTACH]13505[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]13506[/ATTACH]

The motor had a little dirt in it and the paint is peeling off the casing. Once I had it out of the headstock, I plugged it in and flipped the switch. It runs very smooth and very quiet (and makes me very happy!)

I suspect the sheaves were the real problem. The floating and fan sheaves seem locked in a "closed" position and the idler/control sheaves are stuck wide open. The belt (still bearing the Shopsmith stamping) shows wear on the sides like I would expect in this case.

So now I'm off to search for how to rebuild/repair the sheaves and speed control assembly.

So forget what I said re motor - but I would still clean it up on the inside.

1) It is a mid 79 vintage.

2) It is a "B" casting.

3) It is a poly-v.

4) It has the 'small' access hole.

Other than those 4 'details' you got it right!;)

[JPG]

I hope you meant 5' long instead of 5" cause otherwise, this arrangement might be pretty amusing. Also, do you fill the 3/4" tube with anything before you seal it (water, sand, etc.)? It might make pouring the Evaporust in a little easier.

Yup re 5"! Correction made!:o

No re inside of 3/4" tube. Nothing but atmosphere(trapped). Filling can be done with it out(about half full), inserted and then topping the evaporust until the ss tube is covered. With the air it requires minimal pressure to hold or push in. It will slowly rise when plug is removed from the 2" pipe.

Trick is to get ss tube out without losing the evaporust. I let the evaporust run into a # 10 can, tilt up the pvc with ss tube still inside and let the evaporust drain into the can. Once 'dripping' stops,pull the pvc, then the ss tube out and pour the evaporust back into the pvc, insert 3/4" pipe, attach cap and store until the next 'time'.

The ss tube in the pvc will suddenly slide out so be prepared for it. Place fingers over opening to stop it. Evaporust WILL wash off. It gets sticky when drying. I would leave the residual evaporust on the tube, and let polishing remove it.

Your tubes may need 2 nights soaking.

[fiatben]

[quote="JPG40504"]So forget what I said re motor - but I would still clean it up on the inside.

1) It is a mid 79 vintage.

2) It is a "B" casting.

3) It is a poly-v.

4) It has the 'small' access hole.

Other than those 4 'details' you got it right!]

I completely overlooked the fact that early models had 6 digits, while later ones (like this one) had only 5. That clears up a lot of things. I even saw the plastic part on the drive which should have registered as a poly-v, but didn't.

They made later models with an even bigger access hole??? I can almost drive thru this one! but then my car isn't all that big.