repair issue or not?
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repair issue or not?
Hi,
I'm look at someones shopsmith purchased used and indicates it was from 1979. One thing that looks odd to me (I own two machines from about the some time) is the spring housing (ref #39) hangs out of the headstock about twice as far as I'm use to looking at.
Since the machine has several "issues" I wanted to have a look at this area anyway so I took it apart. Other then two set-screw marks off set by about 60 deg the part looks normal. The spots from the set-screws are the same distance from the edge... but some one must have had it apart. I checked for burrs and found nothing and it seats firmly when inserted.
I did notice that the casting (inside the headstock) has an outer machined area and then a stepped back surface. This step looks like it would make the difference of extra exposure that I'm seeing. (This is the surface that the spring housing sits against inside the headstock).
I took a bit of plumbers puddy and checked to see where the spring housing comes in relation to the step and it hits the outer portion and doesn't fit into the second machined area. My guess would be that it should as I see no other reason to have machined it.
Anyone else ever see this? I'm also not sure how it could be fixed if it is wrong... or is there any reason to fix it... thinking that it must have always been this way.
Then the final and last question of the day. When I took the shaft out the machine the spherical washer (ref #53) was facing such that the inside bluge was facing the speed dial side of the machine (outside flat facing the quill. I think that is the wrong way round but right now I can't find my notes on that. Anyone know for sure which way?
Ed
I'm look at someones shopsmith purchased used and indicates it was from 1979. One thing that looks odd to me (I own two machines from about the some time) is the spring housing (ref #39) hangs out of the headstock about twice as far as I'm use to looking at.
Since the machine has several "issues" I wanted to have a look at this area anyway so I took it apart. Other then two set-screw marks off set by about 60 deg the part looks normal. The spots from the set-screws are the same distance from the edge... but some one must have had it apart. I checked for burrs and found nothing and it seats firmly when inserted.
I did notice that the casting (inside the headstock) has an outer machined area and then a stepped back surface. This step looks like it would make the difference of extra exposure that I'm seeing. (This is the surface that the spring housing sits against inside the headstock).
I took a bit of plumbers puddy and checked to see where the spring housing comes in relation to the step and it hits the outer portion and doesn't fit into the second machined area. My guess would be that it should as I see no other reason to have machined it.
Anyone else ever see this? I'm also not sure how it could be fixed if it is wrong... or is there any reason to fix it... thinking that it must have always been this way.
Then the final and last question of the day. When I took the shaft out the machine the spherical washer (ref #53) was facing such that the inside bluge was facing the speed dial side of the machine (outside flat facing the quill. I think that is the wrong way round but right now I can't find my notes on that. Anyone know for sure which way?
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Ed, I'll check this out with my factory snitches on Monday. Sound to me like you have a headstock with a spring housing from another machine.
With all good wishes,
With all good wishes,
Nick Engler
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
I talked to Sue Powell -- "Dr. Shopsmith" -- who runs Repair and Reconditioning. She showed me several older headstocks that had the quill spring housing protruding anywhere from 1/8" to 1/4". I asked her about the wide discrepancy and she said she didn't know. Our guess was that in the late 70s and early 80s, when Shopsmith, Inc was just getting on its feet, we went through a time when our suppliers were zeroing in on our specs and our Quality Control folks had more fires than they could put out. You may be looking at a quill spring housing casting that was a little long but we let it slip through for a while because (1) it did not affect the function of the machine and (2) we had bigger problems to address. That's only a guess.
Inside the headstock casting in the area of the quill, there are three protrusions. One forms the speed dial (front) side of the sleeve for the quill and the front yoke for the quill feed assembly, which includes the quill spring housing and the spherical washer to which you refer. The second protrotrusion for the back half of the quill sleeve and the back yoke. The third protrusion forms the sleeve for the quill spring housing -- we'll call it the spring housing sleeve.
The spring housing sleeve is machined to the diameter of the spring housing. Additionally, the back yoke is partially machined to this same diameter, forming what looks like a curved step on the yoke's back surface. This step is made with the same cutter as is used to machine the spring housing sleeve, so it has to be the same diameter.
When the headstock is assembled, the spring housing should nest in this step in the back yoke, the front of the housing contacting the back of the yoke. If this is not the case, then something is interfering with the housing, preventing it from being properly positioned in its sleeve. Sue suggests you check the spring itself and make sure that the "hook" (where the end of the spring fits in the housing slot) is flat against the housing. It's also possible that the housing could have been bent or distorted by someone overtightening the allen screw that locks it in the casting -- you should never tighten this screw more than 1/8 turn past snug. Both of these things will prevent the housing from seating properly in its sleeve.
The bulge on the sperical washer should face the front (speed dial) side of the casting, and it back surface should rest against the front yoke. Ed, you may already know this, but I'm going to publish the proper procedure for reinstalling the quill feed assembly in the headstock so everyone who reads this thread will have it. The numbers refer to the callouts in the Owner's Manual exploded view of the headstock.
1. Insert the quill spring (40) so the hooked end fits in the slot in the spring housing (39)
2. Slide the spring assembly onto the pinion (43) with the open side of the housing facing front (speed dial side of headstock). Spin the spring assembly on the pinion counterclockwise (looking from the front end) until you feel the "inside" end of the spring hook onto the drive screw (41).
3. Install the retaining ring (38) with snap ring pliers to keep the spring assembly in place on the pinion (43).
4. Install the flat washer (37) on the back end of the pinion (43) and slide it up against the spring housing (39).
5. Install one of the serrated washers (36) on the back end of the pinion (43) with the serrations facing back.
6. Install the feed stop (34) on the pinion (43).
7. Install the second serrated washer (36) on the pinion, this time with the serrations facing front. The serrations on the two washers should face each other.
8. Thread the feed stop handle (35) onto the back end of the pionion (43).
9. Insert the quill feed assembly into the opening in the back of headstock. Feed it in until the front end of the pinion (43) just passes the front yoke. Then put the spherical washer (53) over the front end of the pinion. The bulge in the washer should face front, with the outer ring against the yoke. Hold the spherical washer against the front yoke and continue feeding the pinion until the keyway passes through the spherical washer. Insert the woodruff key (42) in the keyway. Feed the assembly all the way into the headstock until the spring housing (39) rests against the machined surface of the back yoke.
10. Turn the pinion (43) counterclockwise (looking from the front) until the indicator mark on the housing is aligned with the set screw (45) that locks the housing in position. Tighten the set screw until snug, then give it an extra 1/8 turn but no more.
11. Insert the quill fieed sleeve (74) into the headstock from the front, aligning it so the keyway slides over the woodruff key (42).
12. Install the spring washer (75) over the front end of the pinion (43).
13. Thread the quill lock handle (76) onto the front end of the pinion (43).
14. Attach the quill feed handle assembly (134 & 135) to either the front or back end of the pinion (43).
15. Before installing the quill, turn the quill feed handle three revolutions clockwise (looking from the front) to properly tension the spring (40). To keep the tension on the spring, turn the feed stop (34) clockwise until it stops. (The indicator on the spring housing (39) should point between '0" and "4.") Then tighten the feed stop handle (35).
With all good wishes,
Inside the headstock casting in the area of the quill, there are three protrusions. One forms the speed dial (front) side of the sleeve for the quill and the front yoke for the quill feed assembly, which includes the quill spring housing and the spherical washer to which you refer. The second protrotrusion for the back half of the quill sleeve and the back yoke. The third protrusion forms the sleeve for the quill spring housing -- we'll call it the spring housing sleeve.
The spring housing sleeve is machined to the diameter of the spring housing. Additionally, the back yoke is partially machined to this same diameter, forming what looks like a curved step on the yoke's back surface. This step is made with the same cutter as is used to machine the spring housing sleeve, so it has to be the same diameter.
When the headstock is assembled, the spring housing should nest in this step in the back yoke, the front of the housing contacting the back of the yoke. If this is not the case, then something is interfering with the housing, preventing it from being properly positioned in its sleeve. Sue suggests you check the spring itself and make sure that the "hook" (where the end of the spring fits in the housing slot) is flat against the housing. It's also possible that the housing could have been bent or distorted by someone overtightening the allen screw that locks it in the casting -- you should never tighten this screw more than 1/8 turn past snug. Both of these things will prevent the housing from seating properly in its sleeve.
The bulge on the sperical washer should face the front (speed dial) side of the casting, and it back surface should rest against the front yoke. Ed, you may already know this, but I'm going to publish the proper procedure for reinstalling the quill feed assembly in the headstock so everyone who reads this thread will have it. The numbers refer to the callouts in the Owner's Manual exploded view of the headstock.
1. Insert the quill spring (40) so the hooked end fits in the slot in the spring housing (39)
2. Slide the spring assembly onto the pinion (43) with the open side of the housing facing front (speed dial side of headstock). Spin the spring assembly on the pinion counterclockwise (looking from the front end) until you feel the "inside" end of the spring hook onto the drive screw (41).
3. Install the retaining ring (38) with snap ring pliers to keep the spring assembly in place on the pinion (43).
4. Install the flat washer (37) on the back end of the pinion (43) and slide it up against the spring housing (39).
5. Install one of the serrated washers (36) on the back end of the pinion (43) with the serrations facing back.
6. Install the feed stop (34) on the pinion (43).
7. Install the second serrated washer (36) on the pinion, this time with the serrations facing front. The serrations on the two washers should face each other.
8. Thread the feed stop handle (35) onto the back end of the pionion (43).
9. Insert the quill feed assembly into the opening in the back of headstock. Feed it in until the front end of the pinion (43) just passes the front yoke. Then put the spherical washer (53) over the front end of the pinion. The bulge in the washer should face front, with the outer ring against the yoke. Hold the spherical washer against the front yoke and continue feeding the pinion until the keyway passes through the spherical washer. Insert the woodruff key (42) in the keyway. Feed the assembly all the way into the headstock until the spring housing (39) rests against the machined surface of the back yoke.
10. Turn the pinion (43) counterclockwise (looking from the front) until the indicator mark on the housing is aligned with the set screw (45) that locks the housing in position. Tighten the set screw until snug, then give it an extra 1/8 turn but no more.
11. Insert the quill fieed sleeve (74) into the headstock from the front, aligning it so the keyway slides over the woodruff key (42).
12. Install the spring washer (75) over the front end of the pinion (43).
13. Thread the quill lock handle (76) onto the front end of the pinion (43).
14. Attach the quill feed handle assembly (134 & 135) to either the front or back end of the pinion (43).
15. Before installing the quill, turn the quill feed handle three revolutions clockwise (looking from the front) to properly tension the spring (40). To keep the tension on the spring, turn the feed stop (34) clockwise until it stops. (The indicator on the spring housing (39) should point between '0" and "4.") Then tighten the feed stop handle (35).
With all good wishes,
Nick Engler
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
- pinkiewerewolf
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 526
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:13 pm
- Location: Ca. Eureka area.
Thanks for the info Nick.
I'm off to give installing a new quill feed assembly a shot.
I'm off to give installing a new quill feed assembly a shot.
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.
Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.

Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.

- pinkiewerewolf
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 526
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:13 pm
- Location: Ca. Eureka area.
Using my newer headstock as a guide I'm running into a problem. I can't get the bulging washer (A2823) between the "sleeve" (A2617) and the "yoke" as it is with the newer unit.
The Yoke doesn't appear to be bent or damaged but I may need to get a veneer guage and check the measurement on the inside.
I also need to order the spring washer (A2880) tomorrow morning.
Also, does anyone know if there is a correct direction for the sleeve (A2617)? It might be (A2817) but the lines aren't very crip in this old manual.
The Yoke doesn't appear to be bent or damaged but I may need to get a veneer guage and check the measurement on the inside.
I also need to order the spring washer (A2880) tomorrow morning.
Also, does anyone know if there is a correct direction for the sleeve (A2617)? It might be (A2817) but the lines aren't very crip in this old manual.
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.
Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.

Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.

- a1gutterman
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3653
- Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 12:45 am
- Location: "close to" Seattle
[quote="dusty"]pinkie, I know this is off topic but I think about it every time I open one of your posts.
Tell me, is your avatar a recent or an older photograph of you?]
Dusty, I think it is a picture of him in the middle of the metamorphosis. The only question is; did the photographer survive?:D
Tell me, is your avatar a recent or an older photograph of you?]
Dusty, I think it is a picture of him in the middle of the metamorphosis. The only question is; did the photographer survive?:D
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 156
- Joined: Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:42 am
[quote="a1gutterman"]Dusty, I think it is a picture of him in the middle of the metamorphosis. The only question is]
Actually, I thought that it was a picture of him before he retired, right after he caught some kid playing with matches:eek:
Hawk
Actually, I thought that it was a picture of him before he retired, right after he caught some kid playing with matches:eek:
Hawk
Dayton OH and loving it!
(Except they closed the store.
)

