Help with Removing Wedge Lock Handle

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paulmcohen
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Help with Removing Wedge Lock Handle

Post by paulmcohen »

I am in the middle of my PowerPro upgrade and up to the step where I need to remove the Wedge Lock Handle. I have a 1/8" pin punch and have hit the roll pin reasonably hard but it does not seems to move. There is a hole completely through the handle so it is designed to be removed (as compared to earlier handles that were not).

Any ideas? I am afraid I will break something if I keep hitting the pin.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
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damagi
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Post by damagi »

paulmcohen wrote:I am in the middle of my PowerPro upgrade and up to the step where I need to remove the Wedge Lock Handle. I have a 1/8" pin punch and have hit the roll pin reasonably hard but it does not seems to move. There is a hole completely through the handle so it is designed to be removed (as compared to earlier handles that were not).

Any ideas? I am afraid I will break something if I keep hitting the pin.
You need to punch it out. Not sure if it is tapered or not, but I had the same problem with a lock a while back, then tried hitting it going the other way and it came right out. So my suggestion would be to try driving the pin out from the other side.

oh, and if you mess it up let me know, we can get ya fixed up :)
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup

JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw

-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

The pin is straight and the hole is 1/8" id. Using a slightly smaller pin punch and making sure it is pushing against the outside of the tension pin will preclude the 1/8" pin punch from jamming in the 1/8" hole. Once the pushed end of the pin reaches the threaded shaft, the pin punch tends to hang on it.

Lubrication helps! A drop of oil will do.

It goes back in a whole lot easier!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

JPG40504 wrote:The pin is straight and the hole is 1/8" id. Using a slightly smaller pin punch and making sure it is pushing against the outside of the tension pin will preclude the 1/8" pin punch from jamming in the 1/8" hole. Once the pushed end of the pin reaches the threaded shaft, the pin punch tends to hang on it.

Lubrication helps! A drop of oil will do.

It goes back in a whole lot easier!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks that worked and it is out. I am up to putting it back together.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
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